Fuji FA-200, 1/20 Nichimo

[Out2gtcha]

Looks great! Yes, always a great feeling when removing the paint masks to minimal or no bleeding.

[mgbooyv8]

Thanks guys, it's appreciated!

 

I'm currently removing the bleeding and touching up the paint.

What helps in the process is to give the letters (and the logo on the fin) a few layers of Klear by brush.

That makes the paint which has to stay just that little bit tougher.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

[mgbooyv8]

Hi guys,

 

Touching up the paint goes well enough to convince me I don't need to respray areas on the model.

I decided I could unmask the interior:

 

The interior remained almost free of paint.

Just a little bit of overspray on the righthand side panel just before the rear bench.

And a little bit on the lefthand side panel and a bit on the forward edge of the rear bench:

 

 

Luckily, both overspray area's are easy to correct.

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

 

[mgbooyv8]

Hi guys,

 

To do something else instead of touching up paintwork, I decided to add the ignition wires to the engine.

Interestingly, the instructions want you to connect the ignition wires from the magnetos to the firewall.

Well, that's not going to happen!

 

The spark plugs are not represented on the engine and are sticking out of the cylinders with an angle, as shown here.

As the cooling gills of the cylinders are made of metal plates, I decided not to drill a hole but just add small pieces of rod with superglue.

The hexagon at the end was simulated with masking tape.

Now I had something to glue the lead wire to.

 

I used this:

 

The result was this:

 

More wires etc. will be needed, but then the engine will have to be mounted on the firewall.

I'm still lookin at pictures to decide what wires and hoses will be added.

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

[Alex]

That’s a nice trick, drawing on the vinyl for registration to the model.  I’m definitely going to use that.

 

Your model is looking superb, too!

[bdthoresen]

6 hours ago, mgbooyv8 said:

Hi guys,

 

To do something else instead of touching up paintwork, I decided to add the ignition wires to the engine.

Interestingly, the instructions want you to connect the ignition wires from the magnetos to the firewall.

Well, that's not going to happen!

 

The spark plugs are not represented on the engine and are sticking out of the cylinders with an angle, as shown here.

As the cooling gills of the cylinders are made of metal plates, I decided not to drill a hole but just add small pieces of rod with superglue.

The hexagon at the end was simulated with masking tape.

Now I had something to glue the lead wire to.

 

I used this:

 

The result was this:

 

More wires etc. will be needed, but then the engine will have to be mounted on the firewall.

I'm still lookin at pictures to decide what wires and hoses will be added.

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

Hiya Pete! Nice Lycoming. It looks fairly complete out of the box. I like your ignition wiring. A few things I see you could add fairly easily....you could add the oil temp sense line from the gray unit just above the oil filter, as well as the tachometer drive cable to the other gray unit at about 10 o’clock over the oil filter. Both could be made from wound guitar strings, painted aluminum. You could also add a line from the vacuum pump to the firewall, (the black unit at 2 o’clock above the oil

filter. You could also add two small wires from each magneto, one a ground, and one a P-Lead, which would come together at the center of the engine mount and head to the firewall to the ignition switch in the instrument panel. Lastly, I would add the throttle and mixture cables, one to each side of the carburetor at the bottom of the motor. You would also need to find the firewall for the connection points. The only other thing I could think of would be some orange scat tubing that would act as carb heat ducting......from the exhaust shroud to the air box attached to the carb. But I have no idea of it’s routing in the Aero Subaru.....

 

Sorry, I have built a bunch of 1/1 Lycomings. Apologies......

 

THOR    

[mgbooyv8]

Thanks Alex!

 

Hi THOR,

 

Ace! Your post saves me a lot searching through Lycoming maintenance manuals.

Thanks a lot!

Indeed, the orange carb heat ducting will be added. The configuration of my model will differ slightly of the kit and is conform an old service bulleting for the Fuji, which can be found here:

 

Maybe you can help me with something else: 

The Lycoming on the Fuji has an oil cooler at the left hand side.

What I can't work out where the oil lines connected to the oil cooler re-enter the engine.

I suppose it is somewhere in or near the oil pump or the sump. Is that correct?

TIA!

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

Edited March 29, 2021 by mgbooyv8
typo corrected

[bdthoresen]

Hey Pete. Yes, the oil cooler lines run from the back of the accessory case to the oil cooler, send and return. Let me see if I can find a picture of the back of a standard Lycoming 4-banger that will show the connection points. You could also add the crankcase breather from the top rear of the engine, which would be filtered down to exit at the lower firewall.....There were minor differences of course dependent upon dash numbers of engines, but most are really close to the same......be back later. 
 

Thor

[bdthoresen]

Here ya go Pete, a fairly common Lycoming O-320/360 accessory case. As I mentioned earlier, there were subtle differences based on the dash model/spec of the engine, but these are the most common. From clockwise top left is the oil cooler return line plug-Usually an AN fitting is screwed into here, with the fire sleeved line heading towards the oil cooler. Next is the crankcase breather, usually 3/4” rubber line held on with a hose clamp heading down to the cowling/firewall bottom to vent overboard (If you fill the engine with too much oil, she WILL puke it out of this vent, all over the belly of your freshly washed airplane, from firewall to tail!). You can see the oil temp element attach point at 11 o’clock to the oil filter, which as I said penetrated the firewall to the instrument panel (use guitar string) After the oil filter, you have the attach point for the oil pressure line, which again, will go into the firewall to the instrument panel. At 5 o’clock to the oil filter is the supply line for the oil cooler, which also is fire-sleeved and will connect to the opposite fitting on the oil cooler. Usually, depending on the aircraft, the lines will be secured together from the rear of the engine to the front mounted oil coolers, either running just under the left set of cylinders (There is and orange line in the picture in this location.) If the oil cooler was mounted on the firewall, the lines were much shorter and head to it, usually individually.  (Not tied to each other)

 

Two other things to point out-If you see that silver cap just to the right of the blue breather line fitting, that is you tach generator/cable mount....This also can be simulated with guitar string painted an aluminum color. Lastly, that silver colored blanking plate with the four nuts holding it on, just to the right of the tach location, is the vacuum pump mount. You have a pump mounted in this location already. They usually have two lines off the top- the forward one being mounted off of a 90 degree fitting, black rubber line with a hose clamp, that heads to the instrument panel. The second line, is a small hook shaped metal line that points aft, that acts as a vent for the vacuum pump. 
 

Hope this helps. As I said, the different dash models had slightly different accessory cases at the rear, so it might help to figure out what engine your bird was running to be more specific. But this, as a general rule, is close to what most of these engines look like at the rear.

 

THOR    

[bdthoresen]

It would appear the FA-200-160 used the Lycoming O-320-D2A motor, 160 horsepower, so accessory case would be almost identical for the period. You should be good to go!

 

THOR    

[mgbooyv8]

Hi Thor,

You're a star, thank you so much for your explanation!

You gave me all the information I need to wire-up my engine!

This saves me much puzzling on my walk-around pictures.

 

Indeed, the Fuji I model uses the 160 HP O-320 and the oil lines from the oil cooler run under the left cylinder bank.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

[mgbooyv8]

Hi guys,

 

In the mean time I was mainly busy with the Revell Corsair in the Navy Group build and finishing some non-LSP models.

Before I can start the wiring of the  engine, using Thor's awesome information, I had to paint the nose gear leg first.

It has to be installed firmly onto the firewall so I can route the wiring around it.

On many Fujis, the nose gear is painted white, which is common on small aircraft. However, they were also painted aluminium.

PH-MBK currently has a white nose gear leg, but looking at the picture which is in the beginning of this thread, it is clearly not white.

So I settled for aluminium and sprayed the leg with Revell 90:

 

Its drying now.

Small progress, but it is progress!

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

[MikeMaben]

Cool !  Good to see you back on this one Pete 

[mgbooyv8]

Thanks Mike!

 

Work started on the fuel and oil hoses on the engine, using the information from Thor:

 

And using this picture I took during the pre flight of the Fuji I made some flights in:

 

This is the result so far:

 

The nose wheel leg was also glued to the firewall.

The exhaust pipes and all the other lines and hoses will be added after the engine is glued to the firewall.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

[bdthoresen]

Wow, that looks amazing. Keep it up!

 

THOR