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Fanes

Revell Spitfire FRIXc MK716 - pink recon

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Scratch building the camera bay

 

Yesterday I discovered that the Monforten book "Spitfire Mk.IX & XVI - engineered" is available as an ebook for a bargain!

Lots of detail pictures and scale drawings but of course nothing on the FR IX or the bulkheads behind no.12.

So I'll be using my engineering skills to make this thing work.
Here's a comparison of the Monforten drawing for bulkhead no.11 and Revell's and Eduard's interpretation:

635054-34859-47.jpg

 

Both lack around 4-5mm in height and width which accounts for the thick plastic of the kit's fuselage. Also the Eudard one is noticeably short on the bottom.

To get the correct - read fbest fitting - size for my bulkheads I used Eduard's no. 12 to scale the drawings for 13 and 14 down.

The templates are then attached to 0.5mm styrene (will be backed by another layer later on)

635055-34859-58.jpg

 

After cutting them out I did a first test fitting in the fuselage (spots that need sanding were marked with a black marker). But the overall look seems quite good to me!

635053-34859-63.jpg

 

I'll add the openings to the bulkheads later today, or maybe tomorrow. I didn't find any exact drawings. The best I could get was a cut drawing from the Spitifre owner's workshop manual which shows at least the shape.
The next big thin will be scratch building the F.24 cameras and their mounts. There are some pictures out there but again no drawings.
Of course someone has done them really nicely before:

The story from my Bf 110E-3 seems to repeat itself :D. I'll be using Kent's work as a guide for my attempts.
If anyone has a good (scale) drawing - I'd be happy to take a look on that! If possible, I will try to do a CAD model of the camera for 3D printing.

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Not much has happened since my last post. I was quite busy at work and my scratch builind is especially slow.

The two bulkheads are unfortunately far from perfect but not much of them will be visible once the fuselage is closed.

639218-34859-29.jpg

 

Scratch building the F24 camera and its mounting frame is (currently) out of my league. So I'm relying on 3D-printing the camera. Based on various pictures I did a CAD drawing:

639217-34859-56.png

 

The mounting frame itself is so delicate that 3D-printing isn't an option. The horrendous story of my RB50/30 frame, which is a lot more sturdy, from my Bf 110E-3 build comes to mind.

I'll try to scratch the visible frame which is attached to the camera when the printed part has arrived.

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Posted (edited)
On 8/4/2019 at 7:57 PM, Fanes said:

Scratch building the F24 camera and its mounting frame is (currently) out of my league. So I'm relying on 3D-printing the camera. Based on various pictures I did a CAD drawing:

639217-34859-56.png

I have an F24! Let me know if you need any measurements or pictures. I have a mount too, but it's boxed up waiting to be posted to a restoration house for a project.

Edited by KiwiZac

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1 hour ago, KiwiZac said:

I have an F24! Let me know if you need any measurements or pictures. I have a mount too, but it's boxed up waiting to be posted to a restoration house for a project.

That would be awesome! Let me do a sketch with all the measurements I need.

Lucky me who hesitated to order the print yesterday :D

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On 7/18/2019 at 11:54 AM, Fanes said:

Speaking of holes eeeeh rivets: Is there an easy technique for riveting circles?

I checked my plans and the wing top has a circle of rivets where the wheel well is beneath.

Hey i don't mean this answer to sound flippant but, you could cut a circle-shaped mask from Tamiya tape, lay it down in the correct position, and then make pilot holes by eyeball, using a needle in a pin vise, and then open those out a little with a #80 drill bit, or something smaller if you can find it. Sand down with 100 grit wet, then take a look and see what you think.

 

-d-

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3 hours ago, David Hansen said:

Hey i don't mean this answer to sound flippant but, you could cut a circle-shaped mask from Tamiya tape, lay it down in the correct position, and then make pilot holes by eyeball, using a needle in a pin vise, and then open those out a little with a #80 drill bit, or something smaller if you can find it. Sand down with 100 grit wet, then take a look and see what you think.

 

-d-

That's a good idea! I'm a little bit worried about the spacing - my Eyeball Mk.1 drillsight isn't the most accurate.
I'll give it a try and might come back to the MDC solution or an adaption of that via Silhouette-Tamiya tape.elbow grease.

 

Thanks a lot guys!

The camera is on hold so I started the brassin cockpit. No pictures so far - only sawing the parts from their pour blocks and drilling all those lightening holes.

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Thanks to @KiwiZac I'm redesigning the F24 camera. The new CAD model should be ready for 3D printing at the end of the week.

Until then I felt the need to start construction work on the brassin cockpit.

Although it's nicely detailed there's still a lot of room for improvements. For example the frame on the cockpit floor features nice rivets but is one solid resin piece. So I started removing unnecessary structure:

644863-34859-90.jpg

 

Moving to the front (a little bit blurry in the picture above) is a pipe running across the floor. Two problems here: the flash underneath and the fact that it doesnt't fit the sidewalls.
Quick fix: 0.2mm copper wire.

644865-34859-63.jpg

 

Moving aft there are the two bulkheads with their ditinctive lightening holes - all solid from eduard.
After drilling an endless amount of holes here they are:

644864-34859-83.jpg

 

I managed to crack the right one which is incredibly fragile. Not sure if I can live with it, or if I need to get a replacement from eduard.

 

Back to the front waits a serious problem. While trying to install the plumbing to the IP frame I discovered that the brassin part is awfully narrow. The comparison with Tamiya (left) and Revell (right) highlichts the issue.

644866-34859-19.jpg

 

Doing some measurements with my trusty calipers revealed that the Revell one is closest to the drawings in the Monforten book. Eduard narrowed their frame down to fit inside the fuselage with the resin floor and sidewalls in place.

I'm not sure what to do now. Leaving the brassin part as is, installing thinner wire for the plumbing or crafting the lower Revell part to the brassin part (an awful amount of surgery needed)?

 

Cheers

Joachim
 

 

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