1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

[Bstarr3]

That's a lot of AM!  Look forward to seeing the detail as you go forward.

[curiouslysophie]

Thank you! I should have some more pictures to show by this weekend. I haven’t had a lot of time for models recently, but I should hopefully have a long weekend to get some of the Fw-190 done, including my first attempt at mottling!

[Out2gtcha]

7 minutes ago, curiouslysophie said:

.............. including my first attempt at mottling!

 

 

I recently just got done with my first ever "what-if" concept that happened to be a Do-335 A-2 Trop (a Do-335 A-1 with my own "Afrika Corps" type modifications) that happened to include mottling. 

I think slow and steady wins the race there...................actually it was easier than I had feared doing it free-hand. I have also used the Air Waves mottle masks to decent effect in practice too, although Ive not used those on an actual model yet. Results were still good, as long as you randomly change where you are spraying in the mask

 

 

 

 

[curiouslysophie]

Might have to pick one of those up for next time. Need to get a better airbrush too, I’m looking at the Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CR Plus. Seems to review well. Might swap to MRP paints from the Vallejo I’m using now too

[Out2gtcha]

Just now, curiouslysophie said:

Might have to pick one of those up for next time. Need to get a better airbrush too, I’m looking at the Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CR Plus. Seems to review well. Might swap to MRP paints from the Vallejo I’m using now too

 

 

I have an H&S infinity at home, and indeed it does excel at fine line stuff like mottling.  Just be aware, that the needle that H&S includes with their Infinities is as delicate as a dried flower pedal balanced on a thin wafer of candy glass. My ham fists and I have gone through 6 or 7 needles in the 5 years or so of owning it.

Don't get me wrong, the ab sprays beautifully for fine line things (harder on the hand for large stuff) and the spray width adjustment on it is brilliant, but if you so much as look at the needle funny, it will bend the tip.

 

  My Iwata HP-CS is nearly as capable for fine stuff, but has the breadth to go wide too, and the needle is hell for stout.  I got my HP-CS about 8 years or more ago, and I have yet to put a single replacement needle in it. Its my workhorse for sure. 

[monthebiff]

Good call from Brian,  I use both Iwata HP-CH and a Custom Micron. The HP-CH which is my main air brush can do pretty much anything and has taken loads of abuse in the last ten years and never replaced a needle at all. The custom micron I use for really fine stuff. For anyone looking  for a new air rush Inalways suggest the HP-CH.

 

Regards. Andy 

[Out2gtcha]

1 minute ago, monthebiff said:

 The HP-CH which is my main air brush can do pretty much anything and has taken loads of abuse in the last ten years and never replaced a needle at all. The custom micron I use for really fine stuff. For anyone looking  for a new air rush Inalways suggest the HP-CH.

 

 

 

Yep! HP-CS is the most capable and durable overall of all the airbrushes I've ever used.

If you only have enough to upgrade to one airbrush, I would highly recommend the Iwata HP-CS.

[curiouslysophie]

53 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

I have an H&S infinity at home, and indeed it does excel at fine line stuff like mottling.  Just be aware, that the needle that H&S includes with their Infinities is as delicate as a dried flower pedal balanced on a thin wafer of candy glass. My ham fists and I have gone through 6 or 7 needles in the 5 years or so of owning it.

Don't get me wrong, the ab sprays beautifully for fine line things (harder on the hand for large stuff) and the spray width adjustment on it is brilliant, but if you so much as look at the needle funny, it will bend the tip.

 

  My Iwata HP-CS is nearly as capable for fine stuff, but has the breadth to go wide too, and the needle is hell for stout.  I got my HP-CS about 8 years or more ago, and I have yet to put a single replacement needle in it. Its my workhorse for sure. 

 

That is interesting to know, thank you. I will look at the Iwata. I read they can be a pain to clean though? I Didn’t realise the H&S was so fragile! Might be one I look at later for just fine work. Do you fin the 0.35mm needle does fine for most delicate work? Can you get finer needles for the Iwata if needed?

[Out2gtcha]

I havnt needed a finer needle yet, but yes, as far as I'm aware you can go fine on the Iwata too. The one I got with it works surprisingly well for fine line stuff.

 

I tear my HP-CS down after each and every big paint session and honestly it really only involves taking the rear support off, then removing the needle, needle seat and trigger. Usually a full cleaning takes about 5 min or less with lacquer. 

[Cheetah11]

7 minutes ago, curiouslysophie said:

 

That is interesting to know, thank you. I will look at the Iwata. I read they can be a pain to clean though? I Didn’t realise the H&S was so fragile! Might be one I look at later for just fine work. Do you fin the 0.35mm needle does fine for most delicate work? Can you get finer needles for the Iwata if needed?

 

Hi Sophie

I have three Iwata airbrushes and you can get finer needles but between my HP-BC , HP-B and HP-CR the needles and tips are not interchangeable. You need a needle and tip combination if you need to change the size, which is expensive. I find the best route is to have one for fine work and one for general spraying. The HP-CR has a .5mm tip which works fine for general work and although it is their budget model, I find I do 90% of my work with it, even relatively fine work. I find the right type of paint and thinner combination and ratio is more important for fine work than the airbrush. BTW the HP-B has a .2 mm tip. As you can see from the model numbers they are old but still last and work perfectly. I got the HP-BC in 1988.

Hope it helps

Nick

 

[Bstarr3]

I don't know what degree of experience you have with airbrushing, Sophie, but I think going from Vallejo to MRP will have a tremendous impact on your ability to paint fine detail.  The nice thing about MRP is that it comes out of the bottle really well thinned.  I have found using the same equipment, I can get much more satisfactory results with MRP or Mission Models than I ever could with Vallejo, no matter which thinner, ratio, or air pressure I used. 

 

Of course, no one here would ever want to prevent you from buying a new toy...

[Out2gtcha]

1 minute ago, Bstarr3 said:

I don't know what degree of experience you have with airbrushing, Sophie, but I think going from Vallejo to MRP will have a tremendous impact on your ability to paint fine detail.  The nice thing about MRP is that it comes out of the bottle really well thinned.  I have found using the same equipment, I can get much more satisfactory results with MRP or Mission Models than I ever could with Vallejo, no matter which thinner, ratio, or air pressure I used. 

 

 

True story that!! 

[curiouslysophie]

32 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

I havnt needed a finer needle yet, but yes, as far as I'm aware you can go fine on the Iwata too. The one I got with it works surprisingly well for fine line stuff.

 

I tear my HP-CS down after each and every big paint session and honestly it really only involves taking the rear support off, then removing the needle, needle seat and trigger. Usually a full cleaning takes about 5 min or less with lacquer. 

 

Excellent! I might just go for that one. It seems to be a bit cheaper than the H&S too. Thanks for the advice!

 

12 minutes ago, Cheetah11 said:

 

Hi Sophie

I have three Iwata airbrushes and you can get finer needles but between my HP-BC , HP-B and HP-CR the needles and tips are not interchangeable. You need a needle and tip combination if you need to change the size, which is expensive. I find the best route is to have one for fine work and one for general spraying. The HP-CR has a .5mm tip which works fine for general work and although it is their budget model, I find I do 90% of my work with it, even relatively fine work. I find the right type of paint and thinner combination and ratio is more important for fine work than the airbrush. BTW the HP-B has a .2 mm tip. As you can see from the model numbers they are old but still last and work perfectly. I got the HP-BC in 1988.

Hope it helps

Nick

 

 

Hi Nick! Thanks for the advice. I have a couple of cheaper Chinese airbrushes that are on the whole great for large spraying, primers, and gloss coats. I’m mostly after something for fine work. It is interesting to hear the H&S is fragile. I Was intending on that, but if the Iwata works just as well I may go for that.

[curiouslysophie]

2 minutes ago, Bstarr3 said:

I don't know what degree of experience you have with airbrushing, Sophie, but I think going from Vallejo to MRP will have a tremendous impact on your ability to paint fine detail.  The nice thing about MRP is that it comes out of the bottle really well thinned.  I have found using the same equipment, I can get much more satisfactory results with MRP or Mission Models than I ever could with Vallejo, no matter which thinner, ratio, or air pressure I used. 

 

Of course, no one here would ever want to prevent you from buying a new toy...

 

Haha, I always like a new toy! Vallejo can be great, when it works. Most of the time it spits, spiderwebs, or just doesn’t do what you want it to.

 

I think I may buy some of the MRP paints, I only seem to hear good things about them. I have been using Alclad’s primers and aqua gloss. Do you know if there’s any risk with those and MRP? Or do I need MRP’s gloss coats? 

[ade rowlands]

MRP are fine with Alclad Primers and clear coats.