1:200 USS Missouri Build Log - Trumpeter w/ Pontos Detail Sets

[steinerman]

 

 

OK,  are we ready for Part 2?  I'm not sure if I can get everything posted tonight or not.  It's already after 10 PM and I have to upload the photos to Flickr, then get the URL to post here and then do the write-up.  See what I go through for you guys!  OK, let's get on with it.

 

Once both sides of the deck are detailed (we’ll show more of that later), we turn our attention elsewhere. As you may imagine, a model of this size and this delicate must be screwed down to a base. Up until now, the ship has been mounted on a temporary base that is not nearly as long as the ship. Now, though, we must mount it to a permanent base before we go any further. Once we glue the first superstructure deck to the ship, the opening you see here will be partially covered up and we won’t be able to get to the holes to screw the ship down. So, it’s time to build a base.

 

I chose cherry to make the base out of. I bought two really nice cherry planks from a local guy who planed them down to the proper thickness for me. (Another $50 down the drain!) I cut them to size, then I cut out an opening in the bottom board so it wouldn’t be so heavy ( unfortunately, it still is!). After sanding for a half day, I finished the boards with 5 coats of hand rubbed water based poly, sanding between coats. Not to brag, but they are as smooth as glass. (I was going to say a newborn baby's butt, but since this is a public site, I won't.)

 

Normally big, elaborate ship models are mounted on brass pedestals, but I didn’t want to do this. I wanted something different; I wanted my ship to rest on keel blocks.  And even more, I wanted the keel blocks to emulate the layout of keel blocks that were installed in the drydock where the Missouri went for its last refit.  Here’s a picture if what the drydock looked like - before it was filled with water, of course!

 

My pattern isn’t exactly the same, but it’s close enough for me. I used walnut for the keel blocks to provide a contrast to the lighter cherry wood. Besides, I had the walnut so it didn’t cost me anything.

 

 I used 288 walnut blocks 3/8” x 3/8” x ¼” spaced every ¼” apart. Actually, it was easier to do than it looks. The hardest part was cutting them out. My thumb suffered an injury from the blade of my hobby saw. Told you earlier I was clumsy!

 

At the same time I was cutting out the keel blocks, I found a local acrylic fabricating company that could make me a clear acrylic case for this ship. If any of you are from southwest Michigan, I highly recommend a company called PlexiCase, located here in Grand Rapids. They were competitive, dependable, and did an excellent job. I have a friend on my modelwarship forum who paid over $400 for his case. Mine only cost $235.  (Yeah!  More $$$$$$)

 

 

 

They borrowed the base and made the case to fit exactly over the lip of the bottom board. They did it in only a couple weeks, too. I promised them that when I finished the model, they could put it on display in their showroom for a month or so. They were delighted to hear that. Sure hope I finish it before they go out of business!

 

The case is 60” long, 10” wide, and 15” high. It is make of 3/8” acrylic and the seams are rounded and flame treated for smoothness. The ship is 53” long, which gives 3-1/2” clearance at both bow and stern. I’m having a nameplate engraved for the case, but it’s not finished yet. And yes, the case IS high enough. I may be dumb, but I ain't stupid!

 

This and the next three pictures show the ship resting on the keel blocks. Looks kinda neat, don't you think?

 

I think this looks a lot nicer than if the ship was mounted on a couple pedestals.

 

Another shot of the ship resting on keel blocks. This is a lot more work than using pedestals, but I think it looks a whole lot better.

 

The stern of the ship mounted on the base. I don't know if I told you or not, but the silver colored strips on the prop shafts are zinc anti-corrosion plates. There are some on the rudders also. This is actually automotive striping tape!

 

This is an overall side view shot of the ship mounted on it’s base. A 36” yardstick is placed in front of the model to show the relative size of both the ship and the base. This is one BIG ship!! And please don't ask me where I'm going to put it!

 

The next several pictures show close-ups of the detail on the sides of the first superstructure deck. This, and all successive decks above this, is referred to as the Citadel.  It, and the hull immediately below, is the most heavily armored portion of the ship.  The angled tubes you see on the outside of the 20mm splinter shield are spare gun barrels for the 20mm guns.  Also, note the 9 gun crew helmets located on the outside of the 40mm gun tub.  These items were all made out of bits and pieces of plastic.  They are not part of any kit.

 

Here we are starting at the front of the starboard side of deck #1. We see a hose reel, fire hose, and life preserver. Note that all the vent pipes are hand made from thin brass rod, with a tiny dab of CA glue at the tip. NOTE:  for you landlubbers, Starboard is the right side looking towards the bow. The left side is the Port side.

 

This view shows the detail of one of the 40mm quad Bofors gun mounts as well as the ladders and miscellaneous equipment hanging from the deck sides. I see from this photo that the open hatch is slightly drooped, which has since been corrected. This deck has not been glued down yet, resulting in the visible gap where it joins the hull deck. Note that many of the vent pipes are "kicked out" at the bottom about 4-5 inches. I have a ton of information about this ship and this is an accurate representation.

OK, Again, I think I'd better end this part before it gets too long and the moderators do something bad to me.  Stay tuned for Part 3, coming up!

[steinerman]

 

 

OK, it's now 11PM and I guess I have time to add the rest of the pictures. So, here they are:

 

 Progressing further aft on the starboard side, we see the life rings, the fire hoses, and the compressed air cylinders. There are red fire water nozzles that are glued to the main deck near every fire hose. These have not been added yet. I’ll do that after deck #1 is glued down. The short squat compressed air cylinders are acetylene, the ones with the green top are oxygen, and the ones with the white top at the far left are hydrogen. This is the way the tanks were painted in 1945.

 

 

This is a little further aft on the starboard side. Note the hoist on the side of the 5” gun platform. The two red valves above the fire hose are identified on the blueprints as steam cutoff valves. Also, the compressed air tanks with the yellow top are dichlorodifluromethane, which is used as a refrigerant.

 

 

This is a closer view and shows the detail of the front of a 5” gun mount. There are 10 of these on the ship, 5 on each side. Also, if you look very closely at the white fire hose, the nozzles are painted red. A good magnifying glass is a definite necessity when building this ship!

 

 

This is the aft starboard portion of Deck #1 – and actually part of deck #2 as well. I painted the ventilator intakes black behind the gray grids to make them look more realistic. The grids are actually separate brass pieces. Note that there is another open hatchway here.

 

 

Now we start down the port side of deck #1, looking at the locker room and also turret #2. Again, the side of this deck is cluttered with all sorts of equipment and hardware.

 

 

Progressing a little further back, we see 5” gun turrets, a fire hose, a life ring, vent pipes, and more gas cylinders. The ones with the red tops contain propane and/or other fuel gasses. The solid black ones contain just compressed air.

 

 

 I took this next shot to show the detail on the back of the 5” gun turrets. Note the hatches to gain access to the insides of the turret and also the two shell ejection chutes. These little snots were a bugger to make. Took me a couple weeks to make all 10 of these assemblies. Building a model like this as actually building dozens of small models and then putting them all together. Well, more or less!

 

 

Here we’re looking at the aft end of deck #1 in the port side. Still more hardware mounted on the side. The brown topped cylinders are ethyl chloride and the red valve is another steam cutoff valve. I have no idea what the yellow valve is, the plans don’t tell me. The ventilator grill on this side was painted black behind the grill also. Yeah, the 40mm gun mount looks crooked, I agree. I’ll have to straighten it. Close-up photography is great at pinpointing problem areas!

 

 

 I took this to show that there is stuff mounted on the sides of the 5” gun platforms. Here we have a hose reel, a fire hose, a loudspeaker and a rack with mops. No, these weren’t included in the kit! I had to make them by unraveling string and gluing strands to a plastic rod. Then I had to drill tiny holes in the rack. I have to make two more of them for deck 2, too - UGH!

 

 

And speaking of deck #2, I set it in place temporarily so you could get an idea of what I’m working on next. I’m building this beast from the bottom up, however a lot of the railings and other really intricate detail won’t go on until the ship is nearly complete. They’re way too fragile. Also, there is quite a bit of detail that mounts on the main deck in front of deck 1 that isn’t in place yet. Things like ladders, winches, fire nozzles, etc.

 

 

Here’s a closer look at the next deck – and part of deck 3 as well. You can see I have the portholes drilled out and the porthole rings glued in place, as well as the handles on the hatches. There’s a long way yet to go on this sub-assembly. One thing I have to do is to make a few Stokes Litters from scratch to mount on the side of this deck, and I have absolutely no idea how I’m going to do that. But that’s what makes this fun and exciting, right?? We call that “Improvising”!

 

 

I don’t know if you noticed or not, but several placed throughout these pictures, you’ve seen ladders going up the sides of the deck. These are made using individual rungs, a pair of very sharp pointed tweezers, and a magnifying glass (and a glass of wine, depending on how many of the little buggers I have to glue in!).

 

 

There are brass PE patterns for every place there is a ladder of this type, and a whole sheet of tiny rungs – which is a good thing, because you lose almost at many as you get glued in! Oh, and you use Elmer’s glue diluted 50/50 with water to glue them in. And, you glue them in by using the tip of a sewing needle. CA glue (super glue) would be a disaster with these. You tape the pattern in place, then VERY CAREFULLY drill 0.3mm (0.0118 inches) holes where the pattern indicates. And incidentally, you buy the drill bits 10 to a pack from Amazon. I’m on my 4th pack. You look cross-eyed at them and they break!

 

 

 This shows the contents of the Pontos detail-up kit for this ship.  There are 17 frets of PE, 297 turned brass parts, a deck of real wood, and a bag of assorted miscellaneous parts.  The advanced detail set includes 20 Veterans 40mm Bofors kits, solid brass screws, detailed 36” searchlights, and fire valves – and more PE!

 

 

This shows the turned brass parts that are part of the Pontos detail-up kit.

 

 

OK, Friends, that's it for tonight.  I do have more done than what's shown here, but it'll be a bit before I can post more.  I have to set up my tripod, take the photos, then clean them up a bit before I can let you see them.   In the meantime, take care, wash your hands, and make damn sure you don't get this crazy virus!

[Brett M]

Nice work! That thing is massive.....I wasn’t sure where to put my 350 New Jersey, good luck

[Gazzas]

What a great update!  I absolutely love that you've filled  those empty walls with storage.  For me, the most annoying part of model ship building is trying to find pictures showing what was on those walls.  Because that clutter is what warships kits usually lack.  Awesome!

 

Gaz

[dodgem37]

A labor of love.  Great show.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Uncarina]

Brilliant work! I fully appreciate the investment in money, time, and effort you’ve put into this. You have every right to be proud! With my Rodney build, I never thought going big would mean going so very, very small.

 

Cheers,  Tom

[Iain]

Brilliant progress - has really helped with inspiration for my project - so a really big Thank You for the update photos. 

 

You've now got me thinking about mounting my Hood on blocks instead of brass mounts.

 

And I really need to get a case sorted...

 

Keep them coming!

 

Iain

[Chek]

Your Mo's looking excellent, and your photos are a feast for the eyes.

 

I was watching a video series on Youtube over the weekend - I think there are about 15 so far from The Midwest Model Shop. After a year he's about where you are, although he's added oil canning effect (and the Kamikaze strike dent) to the hull. Also he's stained the decks blue, which while certainly authentic doesn't look as nice as your natural wooden deck - on a model.

There're also Veterans Models brass sets for things like the Bofors guns which are even more complicated than the Pontos ones, but to my eye look exceptional.

About the only criticism I'd offer is that the Pontos brass whip aerials look very heavy, and would surely look better if replaced with thinner brass wire.

 

And I thought 1/32 aircraft could be labour intensive!

Edited March 16, 2020 by Chek

[steinerman]

3 hours ago, Chek said:

Your Mo's looking excellent, and your photos are a feast for the eyes.

 

I was watching a video series on Youtube over the weekend - I think there are about 15 so far from The Midwest Model Shop. After a year he's about where you are, although he's added oil canning effect (and the Kamikaze strike dent) to the hull. Also he's stained the decks blue, which while certainly authentic doesn't look as nice as your natural wooden deck - on a model.

There're also Veterans Models brass sets for things like the Bofors guns which are even more complicated than the Pontos ones, but to my eye look exceptional.

About the only criticism I'd offer is that the Pontos brass whip aerials look very heavy, and would surely look better if replaced with thinner brass wire.

 

And I thought 1/32 aircraft could be labour intensive!

 

Hi Chek,

 

Thanks for the kind words.  Yeah,I've been watching his videos too.  He's done things that I haven't and by the same token, I've done things he hasn't.  I have picked up a few tips from him, though. 

 

In regards to the Veteran's 40mm Bofors sets, that's what I'm using.  If you buy the Pontos Advanced Detail set (also more $$$), it includes 10 of these Veterans Bofors sets, as well as brass props, added detail for the 36" searchlights, and more detailed MK51 gun directors

 

[aircommando130]

Awesome build! Does it come with a 1/200 Steven Seagal? "I'm just a cook"

 

Cheers...Ron

 

[Phartycr0c]

just stumbles across this as Missouri may be a project for me at some point in the future.  

 

Wonderful work and very inspirational.!! 

 

[steinerman]

Greetings friends.  With this quarantine in effect I thought I'd be able to make tons of progress on my ship.  Alas, such is not the case.  My wife just has that much more time to spent on her "Honey-Do" list.  And, I've come to the realization that if you spend too many hours a day working with little tiny pieces of PE, you soon get to the point where you have to take a break and walk away for a while.  This is a hobby, remember - not a job.  It's supposed to be fun, and when it isn't, it's time to do something else.  But, I have managed to make a little headway from when I last posted back in March.  So, here I am again, with an up-to-date report on my progress. There’s around 40 pictures in this batch, so lean back, grab a cup of coffee (or a glass of wine) and let’s begin.

 

I have 3 decks finished above the main deck.  According to the plans I have, the lower most one is referred to as the 1^st Superstructure Deck, the one above that is the 2^nd Superstructure Deck, and the top one is the Flag Bridge Deck. This is an overall shot of the whole assemble, to date. Since my last post, I changed my mind on how I wanted to build this model. I intended to attach the hull to the base at this point and then build upwards from there.  Due to the weight – and the size of the hull and base, I decided to build the superstructure (called the citadel) by itself and attach it to the hull at a later date.  Makes for a much easier build – and I don’t have to worry about knocking all sorts of things off!

 

 

OK, a couple things to point out here.  One is the American flag.  It was actually mounted where you see it at the time of the Japanese surrender.  And, you’re right, it does appear to be backwards, but that’s the way it was hung.  I had to search for a 48 star flag, then copy it and reduce it to 2/10” wide and print it on photo paper.  The other thing here is that I tried my hand at making windscreen wipers for the windows (Yes, there is clear plastic in the windows).  The first one isn’t all that good, as you can see, but the second one turned out great. I now have to replace that first one and then make 2 more for the other side.  Wanna know how tiny these little things are!!!  They’re made from 0.2mm (0.008”) copper wire.

 

 

Several new things here.  One is the mops and their rack.  All hand made from .25mm plastic rod and unraveled string. Also note the fire station under the gangway to the 2^nd level.  Also, note that all the life rafts now have tiny oars in them and are tied down to the deck with 0.2mm copper wire.  The oars were made from plastic rod with the tips heated and then flattened.

 

 

 Lots of detail added since you saw this last. The vents are painted flat black and then fine mesh copper screen is cut to shape, painted, and glued to the frames.  I had all the compressed gas cylinders painted and attached to all 3 decks when something didn’t look right.  I did some checking and calculatin’ and discovered that the tanks that came with the ship kit were about 20% too big. They looked out of place.  So, I ordered new ones from a place that makes 3D printed parts (more $$$) and did them all over.  Then I wrapped 0.2mm copper wire around the tanks to simulate the cables holding them in place.  Looks a lot better, don’t you think?

 

 

The little short, squat tanks are acetylene and if you don’t think it was a pain painting the red band around them!!!  The little buggers are only 2/10 of an inch tall to begin with. The boxes on the 2^nd deck are ammunition lockers and are scattered throughout the ship.  The white hoses are fire hoses and are located every place you see a red fire suppression valve.  Look close and you can see the nozzles of the fire hoses are painted red.  The hose reel on the side of deck 1  is made by wrapping a layer of real fine copper wire around a toothpick and painting it flat black. The things you don’t have to do to add detail to a model!  The gas bottles are painted the same way they were in 1945.  Three 20mm Orlikon Anti-Aircraft guns mount on the angled platform.  The diagonal tubes on the side are spare gun barrels and the protrusions on the top edge are to hold loaded 20mm shell canisters so they are ready for the gunners at a moment’s notice. They're called "Loader Frames". 

 

 

Note the gas cylinders in the enclosed walkway and the tiny steps leading up to the 20mm gun platform.  I’m not installing any more guns until much later in the build.  They’re too easy to knock off  (I learned that the hard way!)

 

 

Here we have a couple new things for you to see.  One is a spare float for the float planes that are catapulted from the stern of the ship.  I had to buy an extra set of airplanes just to get this float! $$$.  Also, do you remember when I left off last March , I said I needed to make some “Stokes Litters”?  Well, nobody makes any in 1:200 scale, so I did some research on the Internet and discovered that they were about 7’ long and roughly 3’ wide, and were made out of canvas webbing.  I carved and sanded what I though was a reasonable looking part, then made a mold and pressed glue saturated toule fabric into the mold. When the glue dried, I carefully cut it out, wrapped a border of 0.2mm copper wire around the outside, and painted it.  An old sailor from that era probably would take one look at it and laugh like mad, but hey, it’s the best I could do.  You can see 2 of them in this view.  There are 5 altogether.

 

 

Here’s a view showing a ventilator, stokes litter, gas bottles, hose reel, and fire suppression equipment.  Also, two stacks of life rafts, with oars, tied down to the deck.

 

 

There are several places on this ship where I cut out the hatchway and installed photo-etch doors that are partially open.  When the ship is all complete, I plan to have about 300 sailors and officers placed throughout the ship’s decks.  Also, please note the gun crew’s helmets mounted on the outside of the gun tub’s splinter shield.  To make these, I bought extra oversized compressed gas cylinders, cut the rounded tops off, and painted then dark grey.

 

 

I took this picture to show the 4 layers of ammunition clip hangers around the insides of the 40mm Bofors gun tubs.  If you recall, the shells are fed into the 40mm Bofors cannons in clips that hold 5 shells at a time. These clips are stored here and are retrieved and fed into the guns by the loaders when the ship is in action.  Also, there is a 20mm Orlikon AA gun mounted just aft of the 40mm gun tub and the helmets for this station are hanging on the aft of the 40mm gun tub.

 

 

Here’s a close up of the life rafts and oars.  If you’re new to these progress reports, you might be wondering where all this detail is coming from.  I have a set of blueprints for this ship that are 9 feet long and show the tops and sides of every deck in sharp detail, along with the masts and rigging.  Expensive as heck, but worth every penny!

 

 

Here's another open hatchway and a couple more Stokes litters.  There’s a ton of crap that goes on top of this upper deck and it’s going to take a long time to get it all installed.

 

 

My plans show a rack with oil hoses is installed here.  No such animal in the kit, so to the rescue comes Evergreen plastic rod and strips. Looks just like the real thing!

 

 

The port 20mm gun platform and more gas bottles.  It was a real pain having to tear out the old ones and paint and replace with the smaller ones, but I’m glad I did.  They look a lot better!  Only took about 12 hours all told.

 

 

Another stokes litter and more gas bottles.  Sure wish there wasn’t so many acetylene tanks.  It's a real pain painting that red band!  Also, note the mop rack and hose reel on the aft side of the 5 inch gun mount.

 

 

Stepping away and looking at all 3 decks.  There is still quite a bit of hardware that goes between the main deck and the 1^st superstructure deck that I won’t be able to put in place until the superstructure is glued in place to the main deck.

 

 

Port side at the front of the superstructure. More gas bottles, another mop rack, more life rafts.  I see a problem where there’s a sizeable gap in the plastic parts near the front.  I’ll have to correct that before I go on.  It’s way too noticeable.

 

 

Port side of 16” gun turret #2.  The ladder on this side of the storage shed is all bent out of shape. Might be a good idea if I replaced it. I opened this hatchway too.  I don’t know if you recall or not, but the red fire hose hanger is made from 1/64” automotive striping tape.

 

 

This is the very front of the superstructure.  It’s referred to as the “Conning Tower” and extends all the way up to the navigation bridge. The rack holds spare rail stations and the two side protrusions are antenna outriggers where the antennae tie off and feed into the conning tower.  They are made from 0.3mm copper wire and anchored inside through .3mm holes drilled in the plastic. This view also shows another gap between the port windows and the conning tower. Close-up photography is excellent at locating problem areas that are not noticeable when looking at the model with the naked eye.

 

 

Close up of compressed gas bottles and both open and closed portholes. Every porthole has a brass photo-etch ring glued to it. I can show portholes either opened or closed at my discretion. The 4 objects attached to the side of the adjacent 5” gun platform are spare barrels for the 5” guns.

 

 

This photo shows the ammo clip rings for the 40mm Bofor guns in detail, as well as the gun crew helmets.  These rings are brass photo-etch (PE) and have to be glued in place one at a time, starting with the bottom layer.  There are tiny tabs on the outer perimeter of each ring that you bend down to rest on the ring below.  This maintains the proper distance between rings, but it’s a real pain in the butt to hold them in place and apply glue to the tabs at the same time.

 

 

This is looking down on all three decks at the front of the port side. Note the mop rack, the oxygen bottles, the life rafts, and the ladder up to the 40mm gun director.  I elected to open the hatchway to the flag bridge.  I do need to make windscreen washers on this side.

 

 

OK, I know this is what you’ve been waiting for.  What this latest module looks like on the ship.  Here it is.

 

 

If you’re new to my built posts, I elected not to mount my ship on brass pedestals, as is normally the case.  Instead, it’s mounted on walnut blocks laid out to represent the keel blocks under the ship when she was in drydock for her last refit.  I think it looks a lot better than having it stuck up on some brass pedestals, don’t you?

 

 

OK, here’s the lower 3 decks of the superstructure mounted on the hull (not glued down).  Also, the #2 16” gun turret is in place.

 

 

The next few pictures give you an idea of the complexity of a modern (WWII) battleship. And, the amount of detail that goes into a model of this size and scale.  In case you don’t remember, this model is 1:200 scale (1” = 200”, or 16.67 ft).  The model is a fraction over 53” long – almost 4-1/2 feet, and the actual USS Missouri (Mighty Mo) is 883 feet long.  The ship is on permanent display at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii.

 

 

Traveling down the starboard side.

 

 

I know many of you think I’m anal, and you’re probably right.  But, every time I finish a sub-assembly or a module, I stop and count the number of pieces that went into that particular assembly.  I keep an Excel spreadsheet that totals up the number of parts, the number of assemblies, and the total parts count.  In case you have any interest at all, so far there are 4864 individual pieces in this model.  That includes all the guns that are not mounted yet, as well as the 40+ gun directors built but not yet installed.  It does NOT include all the tiny pieces of plastic glued to the safety net baskets.  These are counted as I piece.  This total includes 1041 plastic parts, 3272 individual brass photo-etched parts, and 348 resin parts.  Told you I was anal!

 

 

Looks kinda impressive, doesn’t it?  But, believe it or not, I’m probably about only halfway finished.

 

 

There is a lot of equipment that mounts on the main deck alongside the superstructure that I can’t glue in place yet.  This includes things like the lifeboats and divots, more 20mm gun platforms, and the like.  Also, none of the railings have been added – and there’s a ton of those!

 

 

Believe it or not, most of the remaining assemblies are smaller and more delicate that what’s come so far.  The higher up you go, the more complex things become, and the masts, with all the antennas and radars, are totally unreal!

 

 

I thought of placing the 5” gun turrets in place for this shot but decided nah, why risk damaging them.  You’ll just have to wait to see them in place.

 

 

Yeah, I know, there are a few mistakes I've made so far. I try to catch as many as I can, but some will undoubtedly slip through. On the whole, though, I think they will be relatively hard to see once the ship is done and in it's case.

 

 

01     I haven’t attached the boarding ladders to the sides of the hull yet either.  That will come later.

 

 

All ready to start working on the next level.

 

 

And oh yeah, I’ve already had a nameplate made for the ship when it’s finished.  Notice there’s no finish date on it!!

 

 

OK, friends, that’s all for this post.  I hope you liked it.  So, until next time, stay safe, stay healthy, and stay home!

 

[Squizzy 78]

Your attention to detail is obvious , it’s looking absolutely awesome so far, looking forward to seeing more! But I understand the pain of slow progress on a 1/200 ship first hand, I’m currently working on my Arizona, and I’ve done some work on my Missouri. I found the Missouri particularly hard to work on just due to the size, but that’s also the reason I love it!

[LSP_Ron]

HOLY SMOKES!!!!

[LSP_Ray]

Beautiful work, and I prefer the wood blocks, too.

Oooh, I consider doing the nameplate before I finish bad luck! Looks good, though.