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Gazzas

Hasegawa 109 Accuracy: is it?

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Some great comments here. Agree with them all. All the 109 kits out there, regardless of Hasegawa, Trumpeter, and others, all have their issues. That said, Hasegawa 109's are nice kits. There is a multitude of aftermarket out there that addresses some of the faults, whether it is in resin or photo etch. So, go big and build one!!! :)

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5 hours ago, nmayhew said:

 

hmmm that's a shame but given others have built this and it looks perfectly fine, there's got to be a trick to it somewhere

 

did I read on a LSP Ron or was it DougN thread that someone followed the instructions to the letter for a Hyperscale build and it just fit as it should, and that it was the person's second guessing the instructions that caused all the problems?

 

if i can find the quote i'll let you know - i read literally a few days ago :BANGHEAD2:

 

Well I built it to the instructions, exactly as they have it set out and the engine bearers interfere with the separate gun breech cover, as does the instrument panel coaming and parts of the machine guns themselves. Which is why I went and got rid of them all. When I realised they got in the way.  This isn’t my first go around with this kit and I’ve attempted the fix a few ways and got to the same sort of result. Poorly fitting cowls if you want it glued shut. I haven’t pushed too much in the gun breech cover part as I thought maybe I had done because it all lines up perfectly straight the way I’ve done it. If I’d pushed it down too much and squashed it I’d understand the issues I’m now having with my cowl being too tall. It seems fixing one thing causes problems in the other areas. I know it can be done. There’s photographic proof. What I need to do next is test the size of the spinner back plate to the opening in the nose it should back on to. If it fits as it should then I can’t take a saw to fix the cowl height, if it’s small I know I’ve gone wrong somehow, though I really don’t see how because all I’ve done is glue the 4 parts that make the lower cowl, 2 exhaust panels and the side panels/top cowl part together as they should be done. Liquid cement and no pressure so the shape wasn’t thrown out. This yellow nose B*stard is really turning out to be a proper B*stard too. 

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On 6/12/2019 at 6:59 AM, Gazzas said:

At a show once I saw a model of an E that had a really disturbing looking area right in front of the rudder...  the horizontal stab?...  is it the Hase E?

 

If this was the only error you spotted - work has been done to the kit ... A LOT of work ...

I wrestled with dark green plastic for a few days before inserting everything in the round filing cabinet.

If you have CRAPLOADS of time ... and patience ... I'm sure you can produce a stunning model ... dimensions will be off without MAJOR surgery though.

 

But we have the Matchbox kit so why bother (<- see how firmly the tongue is planted in the cheek there??)

 

If I REALLY hated someone enough to spend the money ... I would send them one of these 

 

Rog :)

 

 

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I have seen some errors at shows on large scale 109's.  There was also an F or G where the MG troughs looked wayyy to close together.  But I didn't really look further once I saw that.

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Gents,  

 

Sounds like Roy, Radu, Crandall or other aftermarket firm should consider releasing a replacement cowling and beltless seat for the Cyber-Hobby Emil. 

 

I’d buy both in a heartbeat. 

 

Cheers,

 

David 

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55 minutes ago, David E Brown said:

Gents,  

 

Sounds like Roy, Radu, Crandall or other aftermarket firm should consider releasing a replacement cowling and beltless seat for the Cyber-Hobby Emil. 

 

I’d buy both in a heartbeat. 

 

Cheers,

 

David 

 

What do you mean by "beltless" seat? This has been discussed elsewhere. The kit seat is perfectly fine.

Radu

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Well the Cyber Hobby kit has become a paint mule. I am just not happy with my work on it. However, I know exactly where I went wrong now and ended up with my built up cowlings being taller than the fuselage. I followed the instructions and glued the built up cockpit to the lower fuselage part. I see now how this affected things. Being attached to the cockpit floor it pulled it up by a MM OR 2 that it wouldn’t have if I’d left it off and just glue it to the fuselage halves and wing roots. All it took was reading LSP Ron’s build to see my error there. So I now need to track down another one of these kits. In summary, if you want closed up cowlings, check, check and check again. For the engine, build nothing but the engine block, fit the bearers without the engine, you may need to sand the bearers some anyway to prevent interfering with the sides of the gun breech cover. The instrument panel coaming part I’d leave off. You will have to do some sanding if you add it. For the gun deck I would add the minimum of the guns, and the arms that gold the barrels in place. Remove the location pins on each side of the gun breech covers, upper and lower ones. Glue only the part that covers the gun deck first, leave the cowl sides alone for now as you may need to do some fit work there once the top is dry. You may have to use some tape to hold the part in place to ensure a good fit over the gun deck. Sort the side panels out, get a nice flush finish with fuselage sides. Glue the engine in place with the bearers. Build up the 4 pieces that make up the forward engine covers. Tape them together with no glue to check the fit. If it’s all ok, what I do is glue the lower part on its own to the fuselage first then once that’s dry, all the 2 exhaust cover parts. Finally the main cowling. There may be a gap between the fuselage and cowl,  it it’s there on the real one too. Not huge, but it’s there. These are lessons learnt over 3 attempts now to build the damn thing. I honestly think now though that the gluing of the cockpit to the lower fuselage as per the instructions was the root of my problems on this last one. Even with my problems I’ve got it close to completion but just lost some detail in sanding out my problems with the cowl fit and it’s stuff I know I can’t restore. And what’s left is looking less sharp. I’ll never be happy with it so it’s now going to be a paint mule so at least it will have its uses in working out painting schemes and techniques. 

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6 hours ago, Gazzas said:

Sorry about your loss Ade.  It sux when you hit that point in a build.

 

Well I’ve found an E-3 version on eBay. Ordered that one up. I’ll use the canopy from the dead build to get an E-4. I shall try again. I’ve made notes on how to approach it next. And more importantly than the stuff I wrote above, this time I’ll take it slower. These kits are getting harder to find now. 

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5 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

'start with the 109 F, you won't be disappointed.'

Believe me, you'll be disappointed here:

DSCN6866.jpg

 

DSCN6823.jpg

 

DSCN7092_zps71985c29.jpg

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

I don’t recall hitting a problem like that with my F-4. A bit of filler and som sanding yes, but problems like that one? Hmm I shall certainly be wary when I tackle the next one. 

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BTW has anyone measured a full size Me 109 F/G? I have seen the length reported in various publications and Wikipedia from 8.85m to 9.048m. 

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