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Hasegawa 109 Accuracy: is it?


Gazzas

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On 6/12/2019 at 6:59 AM, Gazzas said:

At a show once I saw a model of an E that had a really disturbing looking area right in front of the rudder...  the horizontal stab?...  is it the Hase E?

 

If this was the only error you spotted - work has been done to the kit ... A LOT of work ...

I wrestled with dark green plastic for a few days before inserting everything in the round filing cabinet.

If you have CRAPLOADS of time ... and patience ... I'm sure you can produce a stunning model ... dimensions will be off without MAJOR surgery though.

 

But we have the Matchbox kit so why bother (<- see how firmly the tongue is planted in the cheek there??)

 

If I REALLY hated someone enough to spend the money ... I would send them one of these 

 

Rog :)

 

 

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I have seen some errors at shows on large scale 109's.  There was also an F or G where the MG troughs looked wayyy to close together.  But I didn't really look further once I saw that.

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55 minutes ago, David E Brown said:

Gents,  

 

Sounds like Roy, Radu, Crandall or other aftermarket firm should consider releasing a replacement cowling and beltless seat for the Cyber-Hobby Emil. 

 

I’d buy both in a heartbeat. 

 

Cheers,

 

David 

 

What do you mean by "beltless" seat? This has been discussed elsewhere. The kit seat is perfectly fine.

Radu

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Well the Cyber Hobby kit has become a paint mule. I am just not happy with my work on it. However, I know exactly where I went wrong now and ended up with my built up cowlings being taller than the fuselage. I followed the instructions and glued the built up cockpit to the lower fuselage part. I see now how this affected things. Being attached to the cockpit floor it pulled it up by a MM OR 2 that it wouldn’t have if I’d left it off and just glue it to the fuselage halves and wing roots. All it took was reading LSP Ron’s build to see my error there. So I now need to track down another one of these kits. In summary, if you want closed up cowlings, check, check and check again. For the engine, build nothing but the engine block, fit the bearers without the engine, you may need to sand the bearers some anyway to prevent interfering with the sides of the gun breech cover. The instrument panel coaming part I’d leave off. You will have to do some sanding if you add it. For the gun deck I would add the minimum of the guns, and the arms that gold the barrels in place. Remove the location pins on each side of the gun breech covers, upper and lower ones. Glue only the part that covers the gun deck first, leave the cowl sides alone for now as you may need to do some fit work there once the top is dry. You may have to use some tape to hold the part in place to ensure a good fit over the gun deck. Sort the side panels out, get a nice flush finish with fuselage sides. Glue the engine in place with the bearers. Build up the 4 pieces that make up the forward engine covers. Tape them together with no glue to check the fit. If it’s all ok, what I do is glue the lower part on its own to the fuselage first then once that’s dry, all the 2 exhaust cover parts. Finally the main cowling. There may be a gap between the fuselage and cowl,  it it’s there on the real one too. Not huge, but it’s there. These are lessons learnt over 3 attempts now to build the damn thing. I honestly think now though that the gluing of the cockpit to the lower fuselage as per the instructions was the root of my problems on this last one. Even with my problems I’ve got it close to completion but just lost some detail in sanding out my problems with the cowl fit and it’s stuff I know I can’t restore. And what’s left is looking less sharp. I’ll never be happy with it so it’s now going to be a paint mule so at least it will have its uses in working out painting schemes and techniques. 

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6 hours ago, Gazzas said:

Sorry about your loss Ade.  It sux when you hit that point in a build.

 

Well I’ve found an E-3 version on eBay. Ordered that one up. I’ll use the canopy from the dead build to get an E-4. I shall try again. I’ve made notes on how to approach it next. And more importantly than the stuff I wrote above, this time I’ll take it slower. These kits are getting harder to find now. 

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15 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

'start with the 109 F, you won't be disappointed.'

Believe me, you'll be disappointed here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

I don’t recall hitting a problem like that with my F-4. A bit of filler and som sanding yes, but problems like that one? Hmm I shall certainly be wary when I tackle the next one. 

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3 hours ago, Cheetah11 said:

 

BTW has anyone measured a full size Me 109 F/G? I have seen the length reported in various publications and Wikipedia from 8.85m to 9.048m. 

 

The official overall dimensions of these aircraft had been the subject of some controversy decades ago, but is established to  certainty ...

 

Length 9020 mm

Wingspan 9920 mm

 

Various measurements of surviving airframes have given a length range of 29' 7' to 8' ( 9017 to 9042 mm).

 

All of Hasegawa's 1/32 scale F, G,and K kits are too short in length.  The F kit introduced a lengthened fuselage, but it was still marginally too short, about 2 mm.  The G and K version are something like 4 mm short.  The discrepancy is small and very subtle.  Unfortunately  the error is not spread out over the length of the fuselage but confined to the area to the rear of the cowling and forward of the windscreen.  As a result the buele appear too close to the cockpit on the G-6.  On the F kit the error is really not noticeable, at least to my eye.

Edited by RBrown
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If you take the kit as a whole, the Hasegawa 109Gs are the best Gustavs available as well as being the only option for the Friedrich.  The G suffers from some errors but makes up for it in terms of superb engineering and fit.  It's a model so how it goes together should count as well.  Still the king IMHO (and I've built a lot of 109s).

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The Revel G-6 is really pretty accurate but has three rather noteworthy blunders. The buele are too small, the cowling gun troughs are too close together, and the oil cooler has the wrong contours in profile view.  On the plus side all the kits control surfaces are separate and  two types of tail configurations are included. 

 

It has been rumored that the kit  was also designed to accommodate the earlier G series machines without the beule (G-2/G-4).  If so, it is almost certain the issue with the gun spacing will be addressed since the existing spacing is correct for the early G series.

Edited by RBrown
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