Ryan Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Yep and nice model. Sunday Puncher Tonk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 On 6/8/2019 at 6:31 PM, Sunday Puncher Tonk said: after a clear coat of floor wax and looks great,and now apprehensively dipping my toes into the panel line/pinwash proceedure....I have airbrushed the A6 in enamel paint,and from what I understand,after applying clear coat/'varnish' I brush on the wash...dry a bit-then wipe off with water in desired areas with paper towels or swabs.... Floor wax is acrylic , so if you applied the water based wash over that, you should be able to remove the clear and wash with alcohol without touching the enamel. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 Mike, wouldn't the allkeehol dissolve the future too? Ryan MikeMaben and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 9 minutes ago, Ryan said: Mike, wouldn't the allkeehol dissolve the future too? Ive found that myself, even using 70%, occasionally some will break through the layer of Future. Hence, I stopped using Future as a clear and relegated it to dipping can-O-peas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 You have trumped my allkeehol. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 I use rubbing alcohol to remove future clear from my canopies (when I need to redo it). It works really well. So "-computer says: no" to any alcohol on futured surfaces Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 On 6/11/2019 at 4:57 AM, Ryan said: Mike, wouldn't the allkeehol dissolve the future too? Ryan Sure , but I thot he wanted to start over. If the wash is unsatisfactory it's likely because the clear coat wasn't glossy enough. Cleaning just the unsatisfactory surfaces with alcohol would allow a fresh coat of future without worrying about the surrounding surfaces. Ryan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 Mike I took it the other way that he just wanted to tidy up the area, sorry for the miscommunication. Ryan Out2gtcha, MikeMaben and Sunday Puncher Tonk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunday Puncher Tonk Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 9 hours ago, Ryan said: Mike I took it the other way that he just wanted to tidy up the area, sorry for the miscommunication. Ryan ,,,,yup,I wanted to tidy it up a bit,though I wasnt worried terribly about it since it was an inboard pylon...I was more concerned about what I may have done wrong and didnt want to mess up thje rest of the model...I was following the procedure I had seen written elsewhere and it didnt seem to be working "as advertised"...it said enamel paint ,then coat of Future-or 'varnish' before applying decals and wash... ...I just couldnt seem to get dried areas off and didnt want that on rest of model-but the AK Paneliner has worked perfectly and I am continuing to use it with success so far....I'm thinking that my initial application of enamel paint in some areas of the model were a little 'rough'....not applied correctly,therefore resulting in the difficulty of removing the excess dried wash....that even though I had it well coated with the Future,it had settled into the lower areas and was not going to come out unless I re-did the paint job....but alls well that ends well...all your answers have steered me down the right path,and I've learned another lesson for the next model down the line.....actually-the next 5 models that are lined up on the runway waiting for takeoff.......thank you all very much for your help... MikeMaben and Ryan 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 Good man, washes really suck and I avoid them at all costs. A good practice is to preshade your parts to assist the wash blending, the wash doesn't have to work as hard to create the effect. If you really want to see a different approach to washes and emphasizing detail take a look a work from JM Villalba. He hardly uses washes and employees the airbrush to shade. And there is the rub, you trade controlling washes to controlling the airbrush! Its hard to argue with his results though. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS754US754&biw=1920&bih=928&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=5osDXbTWFc-4sQWD25jQCA&q=jm+villalba+tips&oq=jm+villalba+tips&gs_l=img.3...34150.35511..36759...0.0..0.84.376.5......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......35i39.OdZouHnPkks#imgrc=AToXzTNORyVjnM: I like the outlining and style he uses and you see that in my work, but the only way I can pull it off is with the enamel wash and then surgical clean up. Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Untitled by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Ryan Sunday Puncher Tonk and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunday Puncher Tonk Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 …..wow....interesting...I've sort of stumbled across that pre-shading procedure and used it on this model(though I see I did it much wider-not as precisely,but it kinda worked)….as I said before,this was a learning experience after a 20 year gap,and I'm sooooo glad I got back into this,and all this info and tips you share on this site is greatly appreciated.....and after this,my first 1/32,I aint goin' back to 1/48....I'm hooked on detail...I served with an A-6 squadron during the Vietnam years,and have tons of pics I took on the flight deck and stateside for plenty of reference on details....when I took them,I never thought they would come in handy after almost 50 years later Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Humm so i must be doing something wrong I aplied alclad klear over mm enamels. Applied tamiya panel line and wiping it off takes the clear coat away and makes it sticky. I then added a coat of x-22 acrylics and same problem. I use MM enamel thinner to wipe off is that the issue is it too strong? I just wrecked my bf110e in the twin engine gb. Been working at fixing this for the past week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Sounds like what may have happened is the clear was not covered enough in one spot or another, and the mineral spirits got through and damaged the MM paint. I too used to use MM enamels, but have since switched over to MRP, which sprays like lacquer, but dries and reacts to enamel weathering products like normal acrylics. I figured out that there are all sorts of worlds that open up on the weathering front once you switch to an acrylic base paint (which I have ways HATED in the past). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Hi Brian Not sure. I mean the clear coat all over react and becomes sticky. Its really bit a spot thing. I let it dry couple days too before applying the wash. Maybe the thinner i use is too strong. How fast do you remove the wash once applied? Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 What thinner was it again? If it was anything other than basic type mineral spirits it might have been too potent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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