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Sepp

Tamiya 1/32 P-51D - first LSP build with lots of little firsts

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Looking good Sepp, your work is terrific and I'm envious of the Cricut.  LOVE those muzzles.  Who makes those please?


Chris

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It seems like a bunch of us have the same story of getting back into modeling after many years. It looks like your off to a great start. 

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On 6/2/2019 at 2:15 AM, CANicoll said:

Looking good Sepp, your work is terrific and I'm envious of the Cricut.  LOVE those muzzles.  Who makes those please?


Chris

 

Thanks, Chris. The muzzles are made by Master who do an extensive range including full-length barrels.  They're widely available via on-line stores :) 

 

 

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On 6/2/2019 at 5:39 AM, AlbertD said:

It seems like a bunch of us have the same story of getting back into modeling after many years. It looks like your off to a great start. 

 

Yes indeed! It's good to see so many people taking it up again. 

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Another very busy week has provided only limited opportunities to make any progress on this project, so the planned work on the tub has given way to beginning painting various parts - yes, actual paint on the actual model - no more mule!  Awful pictures I'm afraid.

 

All will eventually receive a coat of gloss then some light dirtying up, to various degrees.

 

Firstly, the gear legs are assembled and painted.

qWLMBa.jpg

 

The rudder has its basic scheme on

VcB6X6.jpg

 

The gear doors are painted inside and out (no pics of the main doors or the outsides, we've all seen blue paint). One inner, to illustrate...

mhmZxV.jpg

and I had a play with some BMF, which I really like using.  Not sure how good it'll be for a metal finish bird as it has a noticable grain... some experimentation with micromesh and wire wool is in order, I think - ditto kitchen foil - as I'm currently intending learning curve subject #3 to be NMF. Still have to trim the edges of this one, but in the flesh, the polished scuff plates look great.

 

The gear bay is done - except the reservoir in the right-hand side, which I need to paint yellow and I might change the colour of the (few) wires, just for some contrast.

1CnlFO.jpg

 

and finally the prop and spinner have received their basic scheme

GHuN9G.jpg

 

z3gl7V.jpg

 

I'm quite pleased with how the spinner turned out - should look OK with a wash to bring out the detail.

 

So, not the week I had planned, but progress nevertheless and the education continues!

 

Tub next, definitely.

 

Sepp

 

 

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Great work!   I like the scheme so far for sure.     Yes, BMF has a noticeable pattern to it ( I wouldn't even call it a grain, as it seems to run in various directions on some sheets) and is thin enough as to be problematic to apply over an entire airframe.  The adhesive on BMF is also lacking IMHO, and is not nearly strong enough to hold permanently on small sized sections applied to the model.

Kitchen foil with sprayed on MS foil glue holds like gangbusters, and you can grain the foil (thick/heavy duty Reynolds Wrap can be sanded down easily) in any direction you want after smoothing by using low tack masking tape to mask off the adjoining panel, and applying some XXX steel wool. 

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Thanks for the advice, Brian! :)

 

I can see I'm going to have to invest in various makes/grades of foil and have a nice long play with them. Of all the firsts, I think it's the one I'm most looking forward to, whilst at the same time being the one that seems most daunting.

 

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1 minute ago, Sepp said:

Thanks for the advice, Brian! :)

 

I can see I'm going to have to invest in various makes/grades of foil and have a nice long play with them. Of all the firsts, I think it's the one I'm most looking forward to, whilst at the same time being the one that seems most daunting.

 

 

Indeed. In this case like with most any new technique, practice does make perfect.    Do exactly that, get yourself as many different types, grades and makes of foil as you can get your hands on...................you will start to get a tactile feel for how each performs, how it looks once burnished down, and (most importantly IMHO) what the properties of each are, and how far you can push graining, burnishing and sanding. Once applied, you ARE going to get wrinkles if you foil an entire model.   Its just a fact that everyone who foils or works with sheet metal on models will have to deal with, and using the right foil (AKA thicker or more heavy duty) in certain spots will go a long way to making the experience much more enjoyable, as you will be able to sand out wrinkles that you can anticipate happening in certain spots (convex/concave areas). That has always been my issue with BMF (along with several others actually) that it is virtually impossible to sand out any imperfections once applied, and if a very small section of BMF is applied you even risk pulling it up, as the adhesive is rather poor IMHO. 

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Posted (edited)

All good stuff to ponder!  Thanks again for the advice, and also for the encouragement. :)

Edited by Sepp

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