Tamiya 1/32 P-51D - first LSP build with lots of little firsts - FINISHED

[Biggles87]

Hi there, I was another lurker for many years and finally decided to join recently.  I think I probably missed this 'til now because you weren't posting due to your back injury when I joined.

I do like Mustangs ( almost as much as Spitfires ), so I'll be following closely from now on.

The spinner spiral is amazing.

Hope your back problem is sorted.

 

John 

Edited November 4, 2019 by Biggles87

[Sepp]

2 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Hi there, I was another lurker for many years and finally decided to join recently.  I think I probably missed this 'til now because you weren't posting due to your back injury when I joined.

I do like Mustangs ( almost as much as Spitfires ), so I'll be following closely from now on.

The spinner spiral is amazing.

Hope your back problem is sorted.

 

John 

 

Hi John (the best name!).  Yep, back seems AOK, thanks - I'm cleared to fly again, so that's the main thing.

 

Thanks for the kind comments, and welcome aboard

[Sepp]

Progress!

 

 

I took a pic of the cockpit tub before it went in but I can't locate it at the moment... I'll keep hunting. For now:

 

 

I broke the throttle off somehow - the one you see is scratched from styrene rod and a small bit of heat shrink sleeve. The slide/rails will be painted the final silver after the main paint is on.

 

You can see that I had a slight fit issue with the fuselage forward of the screen.  My error - I had read that the kit fits so well that you need to be careful about paint on the mating surfaces, and promptly forgot all about it.  Yes, the fit really is that good.  All good learning experience - hopefully P51 no. two, early next year, will benefit!

 

For now, that's all.  If the light improves here I might even get some paint on her, later.

 

Sepp, out.

 

[Antonio Argudo]

looking great Sepp! about the  armour seat, the top part was painted black as well as the radio rack, it is describe in the NAA manuals to be painted that way to avoid sun reflections to interfere with the pilot, cheers 

p51H seats, also finished int he same manner

NAA production line footage 

Edited November 5, 2019 by Antonio Argudo

[Sepp]

Thanks for that, Antonio - and some great reference pix, there!

 

Not an issue for this build as it's a 100% what-if, method-rather-than-accuracy subject - but I will surely remember it for the next P51 which, although a fictional aircraft, will have to adhere to NAA/USAAC practices.

 

 

Edited November 5, 2019 by Sepp

[Sepp]

Another tiny update. A busy month plus hard drive failure and associated hair pulling, venting, sulking and a resigned week reloading all my software have slowed me down, but the main paint is now on!  Ignore tape marks on the wing tips, they'll be stripped back then receive their red finish.

 

 

 

Question:

In one or two places, there are tiny ridges along the edge of the dark areas, where I've been heavy handed with the paint.  Suggestions as to what to use for knocking them back?

 

 

Edited December 17, 2019 by Sepp

[Out2gtcha]

Wow, that looks terrific!

I Like the colors so far a lot. 

 

7 hours ago, Sepp said:

Question:

In one or two places, there are tiny ridges along the edge of the dark areas, where I've been heavy handed with the paint.  Suggestions as to what to use for knocking them back?

 

 

I normally start off with some wet/dry polishing clothes, usually around 8,000 and work your way down rougher if needed. Get the polishing cloth a bit wet, and it should knock the paint demark ridges down nicely. Go over the whole model evenly, and it will make for  a very smooth base for clear. 

[Sepp]

Apologies for the delay in replying Brian - 8000 worked AOK, thanks for the advice

 

And now, a small update.  With my second project (which has a 'due by' date attached to it, and so currently has priority) coming along nicely now and nearing being ready for paint, I've dipped back into this one to move it along a notch:

 

Bagged up for the white portions of the markings to go on. Possibly OTT but as I'm new at this spraying game, better safe than sorry.

 

 

and out from under the covers

 

 

I'm pleased with how it came out - only one tiiiiny touch of bleeding/leakage on one of the roundels which will easily disappear when the black portions go on.  I'll let the white harden for 24h then re-bag the thing for the red wingtips and diamonds on the fin.

 

More later!

 

Sepp

 

 

Edited January 19, 2020 by Sepp

[Sepp]

Ahoy!

 

It's been a while since I posted an update - but I have made progress...

 

First, the red bits went on:

 

Then I added the black portions of the markings, and serials:

 

One or two things to touch up, but nothing insurmountable. I probably asked too much of the Oramask film, in wanting it to form over the aileron pushrod fairing - a job really better suited to a paper mask.  Side note: after trying numerous different tapes and films as transfer film, I've concluded that the very best thing is Scotch removable tape. Worked a charm.

 

I then had a play with various metallizer powders/pastes.The right-most three sections of the paper tank have Uschi powders on them, with a coat of Vallejo gloss over the top. This produced a rock-hard deep shine somewhat like the chrome plated parts of truck and car kits. Quite amazing, but waaaay too bright for what I have in mind. The  left-most part of the paper tank has Uschi aluminium paste on it. This produced a beautiful finish but it REALLY didn't like having varnish sprayed over it - it went dull, grey and patchy. I also discovered that adding the paste over acrylic varnish is a no-no - it acted as a really good stripper.

 

I intended the drop tanks to have Uschi chrome powder over a black base - far too dark, so that had to go.  Eventually, I went for Vallejo steel with a drop of light gray added. After adding some HGW wet transfers (of which, more in a later post) and a coat of W&N Galeria satin , this is the result. Much closer to what I wanted. 

 

The airframe and flying surfaces have now had a coat of gloss and I've added a few HGW wet transfer stencils here and there  - but I've yet to upload the photos, so that will have to wait.

 

Cheers!

 

Sepp

 

 

[Wegener]

I’m a late arrival to the thread but for those who find the Silhouette backing sheet too sticky, apparently there is a low tack version which might help.  It’s reported to be especially useful if cutting thin styrene which might distort when removing it afterwards.  I spotted it on the site of a well-known internet retailer whose name contains the letters A, z and n.  Not ordered one yet but will do when I have enough in my basket to make it worthwhile.

 

Just checked and it’s called the ‘light hold’ cutting mat if anyone is looking for one.

Edited February 7, 2020 by Wegener
Added text

[Sepp]

39 minutes ago, Wegener said:

I’m a late arrival to the thread but for those who find the Silhouette backing sheet too sticky, apparently there is a low tack version which might help.  It’s reported to be especially useful if cutting thin styrene which might distort when removing it afterwards.  I spotted it on the site of a well-known internet retailer whose name contains the letters A, z and n.  Not ordered one yet but will do when I have enough in my basket to make it worthwhile.

 

I can confirm that the low-tack version is a whole lot better than the standard one.

[Thunnus]

Hey John... that's a really catchy scheme!  I'm kinda in the same boat as you having left the hobby for a number of decades and returning to find that things have evolved for the better!  Way more toys to play with now!  Your absence is not evident in the quality of work... top notch!

[Greif8]

Beautiful work John, the pit and camo scheme are fantastic.

[Sepp]

Thank you both for the kind comments 

 

The size of the pics flatter the work somewhat - I wouldn't expose small children or people of a nervous disposition to the full-size images

Edited February 8, 2020 by Sepp

[LSP_Kevin]

That's looking really good, Sepp!

 

Kev