dodgem37 Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 (edited) Nice work. I like your problem-solving. 'little circular discs to the rack mounting posts.' They are rubber bushings. Much like what you can find on a shock absorber of your car. Sincerely, Mark Edited May 17, 2019 by dodgem37 Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 17, 2019 Author Share Posted May 17, 2019 Thanks for checking in guys! I appreciate the input! The joint between the forward and rear fuselage parts has been cleaned up on both halves. I've re-scribed the panel line too. I'm going to leave it there for now until I resolve the canopy situation. Here's the canopy frame folded but not yet glued. It's reasonably close but I don't think this is going to cut it. Gluing down the top of the canopy to the side frames improves things but it's just not square enough to sit flush. And being a delicate metal frame, it's hard to make adjustments without throwing other areas off. I think this is beyond my pay grade. Here is the kit canopy as a comparison. I'm thinking that I can round off the top corners of the rear canopy and the fuselage from the canopy to about one panel line back. And then polish up the canopy afterwards. For back-up, I have a copy of the Revell G-10 canopy that I might be able to use. It is narrower at the base but I think I can use some hot water and coax it a little wider just in case something goes wrong with the Hasegawa canopy. I'll set aside the metal canopy frame for now. I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing. daHeld, D.B. Andrus, Greg W and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 When I designed the PE canopy, it was made to fit the Hasegawa G-6 or G-14 kits. For some reason Hasegawa decided to make the whole cockpit area of the K-4 kit different. The outer edges of the cockpit sill are wider apart on the K-4 kit and the top of the spine is "squarer". So, the PE canopy won't fit in the closed position, but you may get away with it in the open position. One other thing to keep in mind is that, according to the manual, the access door behind the headrest should be just a 4-corner trapeze, instead of the 6-corner "trapese with cut top corners" provided in the kit. HTH Radu D.B. Andrus, Kagemusha, Greg W and 2 others 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Nicely done. 'I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing.' You'll need to cut a rectangular hole thru the bottom panel behind of the rear screen to accommodate the actuator. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 7 hours ago, Radub said: When I designed the PE canopy, it was made to fit the Hasegawa G-6 or G-14 kits. For some reason Hasegawa decided to make the whole cockpit area of the K-4 kit different. The outer edges of the cockpit sill are wider apart on the K-4 kit and the top of the spine is "squarer". So, the PE canopy won't fit in the closed position, but you may get away with it in the open position. One other thing to keep in mind is that, according to the manual, the access door behind the headrest should be just a 4-corner trapeze, instead of the 6-corner "trapese with cut top corners" provided in the kit. HTH Radu Thank you for that explanation, Radu. I don't feel so bad now that I couldn't get it to fit. It's a nifty little piece of work but I'm not very good at imparting curvature onto PE parts and there are some subtle curvatures along that rear edge of the canopy frame that I just couldn't get right. And thank you about that note about the access door. I'm aware of that difference as noted in some earlier posts. I've already cut out a preliminary access door from brass sheet. 7 hours ago, dodgem37 said: Nicely done. 'I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing.' You'll need to cut a rectangular hole thru the bottom panel behind of the rear screen to accommodate the actuator. Sincerely, Mark Thank you, Mark... I got lucky and the actuator ends before it touches the roof. So I don't have to cut a hole to accommodate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 5 hours ago, Thunnus said: And thank you about that note about the access door. I'm aware of that difference as noted in some earlier posts. I've already cut out a preliminary access door from brass sheet. Sorry, I was going somewhere with that observation about the door, but got diverted. :-) I think that the "squareish" shape of the door might have caused Hasegawa to think that spine/canopy should also have a "squareish" shape (even though they still used the early door). In any case, that whole area is a terrible mess. Radu Thunnus and D.B. Andrus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fencer-1 Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 (edited) The 109G/K oil cooler flap actuator located actually not at the center of flap. It is moved to about 1/3rd right side. The only Erla G-10 model had it in the center. Edited May 19, 2019 by Fencer-1 Greg W, D.B. Andrus, Martinnfb and 4 others 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 19, 2019 Author Share Posted May 19, 2019 1 hour ago, Fencer-1 said: The 109G/K oil cooler flap actuator located actually not at the center of flap. It is moved to about 1/3rd right side. The only Erla G-10 model had it in the center. Wow... great shot! Thanks for that info, Alexey! I'll take that into consideration and modify accordingly! So much expertise here at LSP! Using the template that RB Productions provided in the photoetch canopy set, I set about to correct the overly square fuselage spine. The error is very slight in my view and looks to be easily correctable. A few swipes with the sanding stick gets me close to the desired shape. I want to do the same with the canopy but I noticed that there is a flange on the starboard edge of the canopy that is meant to be a gluing surface for mounting the canopy in the open position. I can properly position the canopy in the closed position for the correction so off it comes via razor saw. After preliminary shaping, I place the uncorrected canopy on the fuselage. The difference is VERY slight and hardly noticeable although it will be more so with the canopy painted. I'm pretty close to being done with the re-shaping of the fuselage. I haven't put the sanding stick on the canopy yet but the work should be pretty minor. Waiting to get a Novus plastic polish set delivered. rafju, Out2gtcha, Kagemusha and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Getting a really big kick out of your build, John. D.B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 More great work John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Dear All Learning a lot from the K-4 with this outstanding WIP, many thanks to All By the way, I've always wanted to know what is written in japanese through this underside plan view attached to the Model Art famous book #290 Bf109 G/K Augsbourg Eagle, does anyone of you could be so kind to translate what is red surrounded ? TIA- Raph D.B. Andrus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vincent Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, rafju said: Dear All Learning a lot from the K-4 with this outstanding WIP, many thanks to All By the way, I've always wanted to know what is written in japanese through this underside plan view attached to the Model Art famous book #290 Bf109 G/K Augsbourg Eagle, does anyone of you could be so kind to translate what is red surrounded ? TIA- Raph Can't help with the translation but the plan represents a wing produced by the WNF or Diana plant at the end of the war with the aileron compensator that was supposed to be installed on all late 109, including the K4, but only made it's way on some of the WNF G10. The oval hatch is also documented on the K4 parts manual but serves no particular documented function. For the K4, the interesting bit is that the oval hatch is documented under both wings, the right wing one supposed to give access to the o2 filling valve but we know from photographic evidence that it was also produced with the regular round hinged hatch Edited May 20, 2019 by Vincent/MDC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Great work, thoroughly enjoying the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiba Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 18 hours ago, rafju said: Dear All Learning a lot from the K-4 with this outstanding WIP, many thanks to All By the way, I've always wanted to know what is written in japanese through this underside plan view attached to the model Art famous book #290 Bf109 G/K Augsbourg Eagle, does anyone of you could be so kind to translate what is red surrounded ? TIA- RaphM Hi, rafju I just join to LSA member last week because I think LSP is one of the best forum around , I can translate them to English since Japanese is my first language, Right side top you circled one said " Aileron balance tub" (Omit on production type?) the bottom one said "Compressed oxygen refill hatch" I have the same model Art famous book and I think this book is still very much accurate even published in 1987 and Lots of valuable information about Bf 109 G/K I hope it can help you and sorry for my english. Regard Matsu D.B. Andrus, shadowmare, rafju and 4 others 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Welcome aboard, Matsu! Thank you for your valuable input. Kev Shiba and rafju 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now