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1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8


Thunnus

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Guest Vincent
8 hours ago, Thunnus said:

Thank you Stefan and Vincent for this information!  You both seem to have resources that I lack and am grateful for any additional details that I can get for this build.  The position of the ejector chute was one of the things hanging me up since the drawings of the K-4 that I have are contradictory and show the Mk108 ejector chute on both the right and left side.  Trying to verify the position using archive photos has been difficult and there are very clear photos of the bottom of in-service K-4's.  I've seen all of the photos referenced so far.

 

Here is another thing that is bothering me.  In my search through my collection of K-4 photos, I also tried to verify the oil breather outlet just forward of the 131 ejector chutes described in Vincent's excellent article.  These two photos seem to indicate an absence of a circular port forward of the 131 ejector chutes.

 

bf-109-k-4-wnr-and-unit-unknown-frankfur

bf-109-k-4-wnr-332-700-left-and-wnr-330-

 

Overall, I consider these rather small details that will not be noticed by many people, if at all.  But since they are small details that can be easily added, it would be nice to get some confirmation on the correct positioning of these things.

 

Can we be 100% sure these are K4 and not G10 ? On some of the G10 the oil breather outlet was not rerouted in front of the ejection port

Edited by Vincent/MDC
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My interpretation is when seen from the bottom plan view the MK 108 ejection port will be on the left of the centerline of the a/c. When projected from the top plan view the ejection port will be to the right of the centerline - to the pilot's right.

 

Thoughts?

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2 hours ago, Vincent/MDC said:

Well, i'm leaving you to your challenge and suggest that you open a new topic and see if anyone is interested in contributing. This topic is for the model Thunnus is building, not for continuous challenges when given reliable information.

 

Sorry buddy

 

V

 

So far I can only find a statement but no proof in form of a picture. That's the reason why I am not fully convinced. It's not my goal to proof you wrong, just wane make sure we got all infos presented. I am happy to discuss this topic in a separate thread. Always good to learn something new every day.

Edited by StefanGebhardt
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2 hours ago, Vincent/MDC said:

 

Can we be 100% sure these are K4 and not G10 ? On some of the G10 the oil breather outlet was not rerouted in front of the ejection port

 

I found these photos online.  Their filenames are captions.  The first one reads... bf-109-k-4-wnr-and-unit-unknown-frankfurt-osthafen-30-march-194.jpg.  The second one reads... bf-109-k-4-wnr-332-700-left-and-wnr-330-255-schwarzer-winkel-sta.jpg.  The first one is also found in Monogram Close Up 16 and the caption there reads, "James A Ryan of the Signal Corp inspects a damaged Bf 109 K-4 fuselage at the Frankfurt rail yards on March 30, 1945.  It was common practice for damaged aircraft to be returned to the rear for recycling providing damage was not excessive."

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Guest Vincent

The left oil breather outlet had to be redirected because of the engine left mount that did not leave enough space to get to the wing root as on previous version. The installation diagram on the k4 manual shows the outlet going down and emerging just in front of the ejection port. The surviving G10 also have that breather in front of the chute.

 

On another note, the MK108 chute must have been considered quite important by MTT as it forced one of the fuel filter to move to the other side. On the previous versions, g10u4 included, they are on the side of the shell collecting box and this got me thinking : that shell collecting box is made of steel and quite heavy. With the aluminium chute, you save quite a bit of weight which could be a reason. One thing that support this theory is that the K4 used a specific lightweight battery, very thin and large, installed in the compartiment behind the pilot (which is the reason why the hatch is wider than on the G version). The  warning label often seen on the hatch was instructing the ground crew to not use any other battery.

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Thanks for the great discussion, everyone!  Lots to think about when it comes to the belly modifications but I'll make some decisions when I get to that point.  Right now, I'm still working on the cockpit.

 

I brush painted some colors over the RLM 66 base on the instrument panel.
IMG-5391.jpg

 

The instrument panel was given a gloss coat.  I have a set of Airscale instrument panel decals as well as a placard set.
IMG-5393.jpg

 

Using a punch set, I began to populate the panel, one instrument at a time.
IMG-5394.jpg
IMG-5395.jpg
IMG-5396.jpg

 

Using the same punch set and sheet of overhead transparency plastic, I created a set of glass dials for all of the instruments.
IMG-5398.jpg

 

Before the glass dials are stuck in position, I give the instrument panel a final flat coat (actually a 50/50 gloss/flat finish).  You can forgo the dials and put a drop of Future/Gloss in each dial and call it finished.
IMG-5399.jpg

 

The glass dials are just an extra touch.  Here is what the finished panel looks like in the light box.
IMG-5406.jpg

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Guest Vincent

Good work !

 

the horizon locking ring was usually bakelite color. Not sure if it was always the case

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14 hours ago, Thunnus said:

Thanks for the great discussion, everyone!  Lots to think about when it comes to the belly modifications but I'll make some decisions when I get to that point.  Right now, I'm still working on the cockpit.

 

I brush painted some colors over the RLM 66 base on the instrument panel.
IMG-5391.jpg

 

The instrument panel was given a gloss coat.  I have a set of Airscale instrument panel decals as well as a placard set.
IMG-5393.jpg

 

Using a punch set, I began to populate the panel, one instrument at a time.
IMG-5394.jpg
IMG-5395.jpg
IMG-5396.jpg

 

Using the same punch set and sheet of overhead transparency plastic, I created a set of glass dials for all of the instruments.
IMG-5398.jpg

 

Before the glass dials are stuck in position, I give the instrument panel a final flat coat (actually a 50/50 gloss/flat finish).  You can forgo the dials and put a drop of Future/Gloss in each dial and call it finished.
IMG-5399.jpg

 

The glass dials are just an extra touch.  Here is what the finished panel looks like in the light box.
IMG-5406.jpg

 

 

Love your work!

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Thanks guys!  I prefer the resin instrument panel with punched decals if I have a choice.

 

19 hours ago, Vincent/MDC said:

Good work !

 

the horizon locking ring was usually bakelite color. Not sure if it was always the case

 

I kept it black this time and made another bezel that brownish color.  Seemed like it varied a bit.

 

 

10 hours ago, D.B. Andrus said:

John 

 

That IP is excellent.  How do you like the RP Toolz punch set?

 

D.B.

 

I like them (I have both the large and small circle sets) for the most part.  However, sometimes I have trouble punching through certain material such as clear acetate.  It will be humming along nicely and then all of sudden the punch doesn't cut all the way through.  Had a heck of a time getting an acceptable dial glass (3mm) for the horizon instrument.

 

Here's a better view of the seat with the chipping effects.  It's time to put the harnesses in place.
IMG-5412.jpg

 

One way to save money on the HGW seatbelts is to buy a set for a two-seater, in this case a Me262B.  Two identical sets of belts for the price of one.
IMG-5413.jpg

 

The fabric HGW belts give you a nice drape that is hard to achieve with phototetch.
IMG-5414.jpg

 

I've painted the cockpit floor and forward bulkhead.  The straps for the foot rests have been replaced with wider strips of aluminum tape.
IMG-5417.jpg
IMG-5418.jpg

 

After I glued the belts into place, I shot it with a gloss coat and gave it a dark pastel wash to dirty it up a bit.
IMG-5421.jpg
IMG-5422.jpg

 

Here is the instrument panel with the Revi 16 gunsight.  Based on test-fitting with the windscreen, I may have to chop down the rear reflector glass.
IMG-5424.jpg
IMG-5426.jpg

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John

 

Thanks for the feedback on the punch sets. Great work on the cockpit - just beautiful.

 

D.B.

 

PS The red primer pump knob on the floor should be yellow,  if any color.   yellow = fuel

PPS The buttons on the control stick are usually black.....

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Guest Vincent

DB is right

 

Yellow color for the engine primer pump on the floor

 

Buttons on the control grip should be black, not red

 

Excellent work in any case

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