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Fokker pair 2


sandbagger

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Hi all,
I've added the padding rim around the fuselage decking panel and onto the top of the cockpit side frames.
This was done using 2.0 mm diameter plastic tube which was sanded to form a grip for painting.
Then it was slit along one side and located over the decking and secured in position with thin CA adhesive. 
Finally it was primed, painted 'Humbrol' leather (62) and 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9), sealed then given a clay wash and finally sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311).


Mike

padding.jpg

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Hi all,
Tail unit assembled from the 3D printed parts.
Very fragile once separated from the support frame, so should prove interesting.
The elevator was missing the inboard trailing edge profile, presumably missed during printing process.
Therefore I had to make the profiles using 0.8 mm brass tube.

Mike

tailframe.jpg

shortshot.jpg

Edited by sandbagger
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Hi all,
Well the fuselage is completed, apart from fitting the engine exhaust and the propeller.
The Rudder and Elevator control runs have been connected with the turnbuckles under the pilot's seat.
Also the tail plane to fin bracing cable.
The entire fuselage has been weathered and sealed.

So now it's on to the lower wing, followed by scratch building the skeletal undercarriage assembly, which unfortunately is not available as a 3D printed part.

Mike

fusecomp1.jpg

fusecomp2.jpg

fusecomp3.jpg

fusecomp4.jpg

fusecomp5.jpg

fusecomp6.jpg

fusecomp7.jpg

Edited by sandbagger
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Hi all,
The 3D printed lower wing is detailed enough, but as normal there are details that can be added to make it more authentic.
Early production Fokker D.VII aircraft were fitted with bracing tapes that were routed across the wings between the front and rear wing spars and between the rear wing spar and the wing trailing edge.
These tapes were routed in a diagonal ‘zig-zag’ form, up and over each wing rib.
However later production aircraft were fitted with 10 mm square strip wood as replacements for the earlier tapes.
The 3D printed wings represent the later, strip wood version.
Although these strip wood struts can be left to make the model build easier, I've chosen to remove the wings strip wood struts and represent the earlier bracing tapes.

In addition, the two wing halves, when test joined at the centre section spars, showed a higher than expected dihedral angle.
Therefore I had to shave away material from the spars to achieve the correct angle.

Finally the leading edges of both wings were fitted with 'saw tooth' plywood fairings, which will need to be scratch made, as will the trailing edge support wire for attaching the linen covering.

So far:
Spars adjusted.
Strip wood bracing removed.
Diagonal bracing struts added to inner and outer trailing edges.
Holes drilled at the wing strut attachment points for attaching the wings internal cross bracing cables.
Wings scrapped clean of wax support material, assembled and primed.

The upper wing, which is in three sections, will require similar treatment.

Mike

lowerribbrace.jpg

lowwing.jpg

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Hi all,
The leading edge plywood 'saw tooth' fairing is tricky to do, but can be done.
Structure drawing of 1/72 scale resized by 160%, then printed, cut out and used as a template on 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
The fairing is test fitted and adjusted where necessary then secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
Starting on the top of the front wing spar then once set, rolling the wing over the fairing and applying adhesive at the same time.,

Mike

leadedgedone.jpg   

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Hi all,
The lower wing is nearing completion.
It's been painted with 'Tamiya' base coat then oils for wood effect.
Internal wing bracing with turnbuckles added.
Leading edge 'transportation 'bump stops' added.
Internal double bracing 'zig-zag' tapes installed (instead of the original 'strip wood' struts, which were removed).

I still have the trailing edge wire to install (for attaching the wings linen covering).
Also the final weathering will need to be added


Mike

wingtaped.jpg   

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It looks great but I have a question. Are you sure the woodgrain on the leading edge is in the good direction? I don't know for sure but in my opinion it's real difficult to bend wood in this direction. 

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I'm no carpenter, but I think that plywood is easier to 'steam' bend with the grain, rather than across the grain, which may cause the grain to split.

Also I created the grain in that direction as it's with the airflow.

But I could be totally wrong so if I am, I'll call it 'poetic license'. ;)

 

The lower wing is finished now, with the trailing edge wire fitted and overall 'dumbing down' carried out using 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer mixed with 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).  

So now it's on to scratch making the undercarriage fairing and axle assembly (not available as a 3D printed part),

Mike

lowwingdone1.jpg 

lowwingdone2.jpg    

lowwingdone3.jpg     

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Hi all,
The undercarriage fairing assembly is basically built.
Made from 0.8 mm and 1.0 mm thick plastic card, 1.2mm, 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm brass rod and tube.
The wheels are hand made by 'Steve Robson' out in Australia.

It's still to be finalized and painted etc.
I'll also need to make the struts as the kit supplied items fit into the kit fairing and therefore are not long enough to attach to the angled support blocks on each side of the exposed axle box ends,

Mike

axle5.jpg

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