dmthamade Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) Building a Trumpeter P-40, time has come to deal with the clear parts. I can't remember ever having to deal with installing canopy parts/windscreens where there is no framing to "hide" any kind of glue/cement. I'm sure there is a simple solution, but for the life of me i have no solution. Anyone have a BTDT, because i'm stymied by what should be a simple problem. Don Edited March 23, 2019 by dmthamade sandokan and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Use Klear or clear coat! dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 And maybe paint or use a permanent marker to blacken the glued down edge? Might cut down the visibility of the joint? Out2gtcha and dmthamade 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 5 minutes ago, Thunnus said: And maybe paint or use a permanent marker to blacken the glued down edge? Might cut down the visibility of the joint? Thats some good advice. Nice trick too! Along that same vein, I've also had decent luck making ultra small frames from Aizu micro masking tape as well. It may not be 100% accurate, but if the framing is small enough, it may do the trick. Ive also used the Aizu tape to mask off and paint frames too. dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Thanks for the ideas, guys!! I have used Future to glue in small clear parts, I guess clear coat may work, too. I'm concerned about the size of the part being held in with Future/Klear. Painting the edge sounds like a good idea, maybe tint the Future with the color. Masking off a small area as a frame sounds like a good idea, too. I'm thinking a combination of all the ideas is the winner. I have to say, this is a really nice kit, how they chose to do the clear parts is the only letdown for me. Thaks again, guys, much appreciated!! Don Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Hasegawa did it the right way on their "E" model by combining the canopy with the fuselage section from the first panel line below the canopy, to the panel line at the firewall in clear plastic. Much easier to hide how you glued it on. Gazzas and dmthamade 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 1 hour ago, Out2gtcha said: Hasegawa did it the right way on their "E" model by combining the canopy with the fuselage section from the first panel line below the canopy, to the panel line at the firewall in clear plastic. Much easier to hide how you glued it on. Yup!! The funny thing is, I know Trumpeter did it that way on other kits (Me 262) so it isn't a new concept to them. Don Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 I know that people are afraid of simply gluing with varnish: "This should not be strong enough". Actually, you would be surprised to see how resistant is such a seam! Gazzas and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 6 hours ago, thierry laurent said: I know that people are afraid of simply gluing with varnish: "This should not be strong enough". Actually, you would be surprised to see how resistant is such a seam! I think the end result would be plenty strong enough to hold the actual part. My only issue really with using varnish/Future/Klear ect, ect, to hold clear parts on is that a larger percentage of the parts I want to glue down (mainly windscreens) do not sit well without pressure holding them down, and Ive generally not had great luck using tape to hold things down for a long duration while glue or varnish dries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 surely if you have dipped the part in Klear (or similar), you should be able to use whatever glue you want without fear of frosting / misting? Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 2 minutes ago, nmayhew said: surely if you have dipped the part in Klear (or similar), you should be able to use whatever glue you want without fear of frosting / misting? That is the main and really only reason I still use Future to dip my can-O-pees in. I can get the same results clarity wise from finish sanding and step polishing, but that doesn't protect it from the ultra thin CA I like using to glue my windscreens down. nmayhew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody V Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Future decanted 50% is an excellent adhesive. Put some in a jar and leave it open until there's only half left. TIP: Anything that will stick to two things will stick those two things together. Straight future is too thin unless you use several applications. D.B. Andrus and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimHepplestone Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 I recently used a uv curing glue when glueing a canopy to the frame on my F4. It’s one of those pen like dispensers with a uv light on one end. A small smear of glue on the underside of the canopy,5 seconds of UV light and sorted. In hindsight I should have painted the edge of the canopy as you get some reflection of light from the join when viewing from the certain angles Woody V and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelingbob Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 I use Microscale Liquitape to join clear parts where you get a join that is visible. Paint it on the edge of the clear part where it attaches, let it dry, and then attach it. No capillary action to deal with and go places where you don't want it to go! mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_C Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 I have had good luck using watch glass cement. It's strong, dries clear, doesn't attack plastic I've used, and, well, it's sorta designed for the task: https://www.amazon.com/Hypo-Watch-Crystal-Cement/dp/B005MJDQZU Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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