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Thunnus

1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740

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4 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

The prop and engine look fantastic!   Out of curiosity, how do you go about painting all the separate details of the engine after assembly?

 

Thanks Brian!  Good question!  After dry-fitting most of the engine components, I've decided to paint the parts first and put them together afterwards.  I'll try to do most of the the metal-to-plastic connections (i.e. wiring) ahead of time because I usually have a difficult time getting a good CA bond on painted surfaces.  But some will have to be done at the end because they connect separate components.

 

I want the glue joints to be strong so I'm trying to make sure that I cover the glue surfaces with Micro Mask prior to painting.  Roughly speaking, I'm going to work my way front to back, starting with the gear reduction housing, then the pushrods and wiring harness, the front row of cylinders, the back row of cylinders, the exhaust piping, etc.  That's the rough plan anyway.  I should have some pics of the painted gear reduction housing soon.

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That salt fading produces awesome results! I have never seen it done for that, it really turns out realistic.

Look forward to more painting tips!

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Thanks Ray! 

 

The gear reduction housing has been painted.  The black magneto is from the Vector resin set.  The P&W logo is a kit decal and the data plate is an unused decal from the Barracuda sheet.  Didn't catch that the P&W logo was placed upside down until it was already fused into place.  Darn it! :wacko:
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8 hours ago, Thunnus said:

 

  Didn't catch that the P&W logo was placed upside down until it was already fused into place.  Darn it! :wacko:



 

 John, I have a bunch of PW logos from Fundekals. PM me if you want a replacement or two.

 

Cheers,

 

D.B.

 

 

 

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HUH, salt fading. I've seen salt used to simulate paint chipping to bare metal but your technique is very effective too. Do you crush the salt up a little? Any time I've tried it the "chips" seem to be too large...of course I've only tried it on 48th scale planes.

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18 hours ago, D.B. Andrus said:

 John, I have a bunch of PW logos from Fundekals. PM me if you want a replacement or two.

 

Cheers,

 

D.B.

 

 

 

 

PM sent!

 

 

2 hours ago, jep1210 said:

HUH, salt fading. I've seen salt used to simulate paint chipping to bare metal but your technique is very effective too. Do you crush the salt up a little? Any time I've tried it the "chips" seem to be too large...of course I've only tried it on 48th scale planes.

 

Yes, I use rock salt and crush the salt to get the appropriate size.  I've used it on my 1/48 scale builds as well...

 

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You can dial back the effect after application by gently rubbing with Micromesh.  Spraying a flat coat over a salt fade will also lessen the effect, sometimes to the point of making it disappear.

 

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Work on the Corsair engine continues.  After one failed attempt at attaching the wires to the wiring harness using CA glue, I used clear UV epoxy.
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The cylinder covers and push rods have been painted.
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The exhausts were painted Alclad Exhaust Manifold.
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Finally got around to masking and painting the engine cylinders.  After a base coat of black, I used Alclad Duraluminum for the main metal color.
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After I picked out some details using the paint brush, I gave the engine cylinders a gloss coat.  A dark grey wash was applied to pop the detail.
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Not quite ready to assemble the engine just yet but wanted to check out how things look with some of the separately painted components together.
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The Dana Bell book didn't reveal anything obvious that I needed to add to the interior but reinforced the decision to leave out the flare pistol.  So I can glue the fuselage halves together now.
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One last look at the cockpit before I seal it away.
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The view is reduced but you can still see quite a bit of interior after the fuselage is buttoned up.
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Most of the engine components have been painted so it's time to start putting it together!
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Everything forward of the rear row of cylinders has been glued into place  The wiring has been completed.  I didn't follow the wiring all the way to the rear of the cylinders as this did not allow the cylinder covers to lay down flat.  Won't be able to see from the front anyway.

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