MikeMaben Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 7 hours ago, Fanes said: ... So it'll be to some extent imagination and artist's choice. We're sorry , that's simply not allowed here . 109, Gazzas, williamj and 2 others 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 (edited) 11 hours ago, Out2gtcha said: get yourself some clear frisket film for SURE. I'm already using frisket film but it still wasn't easy to get the maks into position. I had to transfer them more than once. First for the the surrounding mask, then the outline and at least the mask for the red aprt of the codes. On my Bf 110 the codes and insignia will be painted on before the main painting so it's one transfer step less. 4 hours ago, MikeMaben said: We're sorry , that's simply not allowed here . I'm sure that pictures of the right hand side will magically appear straight after painting! Edited May 11, 2019 by Fanes MikeMaben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 Looking nice, Fanes! Fanes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 After long thoughts and a lot of doubts the mottling of the wings and the fuselage was a lot of fun. Since there's no picture showing the complete wings or the right hand side of the fuselage - I went with a quite linear mottling (like on a He 219) which is appearant on one picture (at least I guess so). Pulling the otehr masks revealed some more flaws which will be reworked in the next days. Enjoy: So the next steps are: - repairs on the insignia - the RLM76 rectangle behind the swastika - getting some variation into the bigger RLM80 blotches - painting the fuel filler port - wheatering (first time salt fading!) So long Joachim Out2gtcha, TorbenD, scvrobeson and 12 others 14 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 Looks like a spider's crawled across for Bf109 Joachim!! That is seriously good work. I had exactly the same feeling of uncertainty before mottling my Bf110G4 but really enjoyed it when doing it, after of course lots of practice on the "mule". Fanes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 You're absolutely right Max - it really is fun! I may get one of those G-4 conversions, too (the He 219 in my stash is nodding its head). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted May 19, 2019 Author Share Posted May 19, 2019 (edited) Just a small update for today. I did some repairs on the insignia, added some paint on the details (cowling seal etc.) and glossed the whole thing up. Right now it's still drying and I have to wait until tomorrow to shoot pictures. Until then there are two photos of my work on the prop. I used the same painting method liek on my smalls cale 109: black base, Alclad aluminium, hairspray, balck base, RLM70. Everything worked fine except for the hairspray part. I wasn't able to chip any paint of without using a lot of pressure with a toothpick and the result was ugly as hell! In my desparation I tackled the whole thing with alcohol and the colour chipped of/was dissolved. Here's the result: The front looks really nasty since the Tamiya RLM70 reacted with the alcohol. I'll try to repaint the front. If that doesn't work out, I'll strip the whole thing down to the Alclad and I'll try again. Edited May 20, 2019 by Fanes Kagemusha, shadowmare, MikeMaben and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 It's been a while since my last update. I was occupied with my GB entry but I'm struggling a little bit over there so my plan is to fnish this one here quickly. With the markings sprayed on, the small details painted and a gloss coat over everything it's ready for decalling. I decided to use the Hasegawa stencils and sell the Eagle Cal decals (more on that great idea later) I'm not putting on all stencils because red 2 was painted in the field and so it's quite unlikely that all stencils were repainted. For example there's nothing to be seen on the wings (no walkways, no no-steps). So it's pretty much down to the small stuff on the fuselage. The Hasegawa decals are quite thick and need a lot of Mr. Mark softer to lay down properly. But maybe that stuff is a little too hot: The small numbers just melted away. Right after taking the picture I started sanding and polishing the affected area. After repainting I can put on my spare decals. The macro picture really is unforgiving - the edges on the markings aren't visible to my naked eye. Lesson learned for my next build. So long Joachim Azor, MikeMaben and nmayhew 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 Mr. Mark Destroyer strikes again! Sorry to hear about your decal issues, Joachim. I give the Gunze stuff a wide berth these days, as I get bad results with it every time. Kev nmayhew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted June 21, 2019 Author Share Posted June 21, 2019 9 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Mr. Mark Destroyer strikes again! Sorry to hear about your decal issues, Joachim. I give the Gunze stuff a wide berth these days, as I get bad results with it every time. Kev What's a better alternative in your opinion? I tried Micro Sol (my favourite for cartograf decals) beforehand and the Hasegawa decals didn't react to that at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 With some spare decals from Revell G-6 the decal job is now finally done! Onto my favourite chapter: wheatering! This will inlcude the following steps: 1. salt fading (first time) 2. oil dot filter 3. oil wash 4. pigments and some dust effects 5. exhaust stains So let's get started with salt fading. I developed the technique scrolling through Doog's Corsair build and wanted to try it for quite some time. First of the whole 109 was covered with distilled water with some flow improver (to reduce surface tension). Then the salt grinder came to use and here's the result: The fading was then applied with MRP M485 light-grey thinned down to 3:1 - basically tinted thinner. I concentrated the painting to the horizontal surfaces which would be most faded. After washing of the salt the bird looks like this. And in close up: The fading is now sealed up with a gloss coat. I'll give a day to really harden up before I can go to the next step. I have no idea how the salt fading may look after all the other steps, I'm for sure going to learn something. Kagemusha, TAG, LSP_Kevin and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 I'm speeding up this build a little because my finish line is the end of June! - well at least I'm planning to start my next build in July.. Wheatering step #2. oil dot filtering Therefore I prepared some oil colours on a cardboard which serves as palette and absorbs the excess of oil (speeds up drying). I'll go with anything from white over brown to blue. Now the fun part: placing small dots with a (sharpened) tooth pick all over the airframe Then the oils get worked in with a flat brush. This step reduces the streaks in the next step. After about half an hour later I started the blending process with some white spirit. My goal was to achieve a even coverage with no visible streaks. Because of the latter the wing was tackled again after the photo shoot. The rest of the airframe now recieves the same treatment and will be sealed up for a wash tomorrow. Fingers croessed that I'll complete this build sunday evening! TorbenD, Fvdm, MikeMaben and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted June 29, 2019 Author Share Posted June 29, 2019 Folks - the finish line is almost in sight! No experiments with the washing. I took my usual oil paints and white spirit for that action. I'm not a big fan of the typical dark black-green-brown wash which makes the panel lines look like dark trenches. In my opinion those pre-mixed washes from Ammo and what's their name are much better suited to an aircraft model. So for the underside I mixed a dark RLM76 from blue, white and raw umber and applied it to the panel lines. Here's the result before removing the excess: The two tones on the uppers make fitting a good match for a wash difficult. Since there are no big blotches I couldn't go for a two tone wash. So I ended up mixing a dark brown with a hint of green (oh the irony..). Again it's not too dark and not overly prominent as you can see in a wider shot: After the flat coat it's just the final assembly and some minor painting to do - mostly exhaust stains, dust and the gun barrels haven't seen any paint so far. LSP_Kevin, Kagemusha, Pfuf and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 That looks great, man! Fanes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 Well done Joachim, she’s looking rather splendid! I’m weathering my Harvard at the moment, mainly using Flory’s dark dirt which I think is more forgiving than an oil wash. Fanes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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