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karimb

WNW Albatros DVa OAW, Hans Von Gössel's flying skull!

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On 2/26/2019 at 8:04 PM, LSP_Ray said:

That is awesome! The worn winter whitewash looks perfect!

 

Thanks Ray!

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1 minute ago, Ryan said:

Yes your right, been working on a DH9 stuck in wood grain land. :)

 

33466073558_233f681a08_z.jpgDH9 by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

 

Will get back to the Albatros soon.

 

Ryan

 

The 'manual' way of painting wood, just like Alex Glass from Uschi Van Der Rosten used to do it and the other masters... it's quite difficult and you got the blending down perfect between the colors. did you use lifecolor paints for the brush painting? super well done. what scheme have you got in mind?

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This is your thread but since you asked. :)

 

I used Vajello for the grain, honestly not the best of work..luckily only the good parts will be seen! The blending is a bit off too...but it looked better before I gloss coated it. Here is a shot before gloss and the brush I used. Perhaps flat coating it again will lighten it up?

 

46427149545_f278a7c8eb_z.jpgDH9 by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

 

Ryan

 

 

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And for our new update!

drumroll...

First let me say i apologize for the delay as usual. The schedule is just being brutal and i have had this update ready for a while now. I just havent had the time to sit down and get the mac out to post this between flights, or even outstation as i am trying to keep physically busy with walking and going to the gym after long flights. 

I have managed to finish the cowl which was readied for the Brengun photoetch cowling fasteners and has received the HGW etch part that i bended to look partly open. I scratchbuilt the cowling retainer spring and the hook mechanism on both the fuselage and cowl. on the other side of the fuselage which will not have the cowl on i build the mechanism with the spring in the relaxed state. The prominent lip on the cowl that was there for mechanics not to cut themselves was added using stretched sprue. The cowl was weathered with oils, and chipping was done with pencils. I have also predrilled the fuel tank drain port location and the ejector chute exit ports. For the fuel drain i have tried a couple of techniques to get the panel precisely drilled and have settled on using the punch set as it leaves a clean circle rather than successful use of bigger and bigger drillbit sizes which ended up twisting the thin pe part. The louvers have been sanded along with the hatches which will receive photoetch parts. I have taken a polyester mold of the vents from another one of my kits in order to burnish the pe vents to the correct shape when the time comes for me to install them on the fuselage. The fuselage has been painted white as seen previously and gunze sand yellow was airbrushed very thin. once the coat was dry i micromeshed some areas to give it a patchy look which will come through very nicely with the woodgrain. The rudder was modified with the addition of a brass rod at the bottom as the part from wingnut wings doesnt extend far enough to poke into the fuselage where the rudder pedals are wired to the control rod. I opened up the elevator exit points for the rigging, and modified the top side openings with sprue and then placed pe parts from the HGW set. The openings should be oblong and not square as wnw has depicted them. a bit of parallel sprue glued in the square recess then sanded flush, then some chain drilling and cleaning up and the etch part on top did the trick. Rudder was then painted, preshaded postshaded then covered with Richard's Aviattic lozenge decals. Mr mark setter neo and a hairdryer and the decals behalved FLAWLESSLY, as always! The horizontal stabs were painted and a filter of ochre was brushed on the white areas to tone the pop down. More stuff was done but it's been done over a lapse of time so i might have forgotten some of the smaller details. 

I had some time off today so i scratched built a flare rack from spare pe and from albion aluminium rod and have added the hinge at the top of the ammunition cans. I have some supplies on the way that i want to add to the albatros in the forms of pe chains in 1/48th scale and some more little dings and bits that will overall further enhance the little details. I have added some sublte chipping on the horizontal stabilizer and sealed those as preweathering before further assembly. I have the day off tomorrow and i am on standby overnight so progress will be done. The inevitable is coming, i will start working on the fuselage woodgraining and i still have not decided wether to plot my own masks and paint all the markings on, or use the decals and weather those which i am not a fan of doing usually, and i avoid...

 

Thanks for checking in. Your comments are greatly appreciated my friends!

Karim

 

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29 minutes ago, Ryan said:

This is your thread but since you asked. :)

 

I used Vajello for the grain, honestly not the best of work..luckily only the good parts will be seen! The blending is a bit off too...but it looked better before I gloss coated it. Here is a shot before gloss and the brush I used. Perhaps flat coating it again will lighten it up?

 

46427149545_f278a7c8eb_z.jpgDH9 by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

 

Ryan

 

 

 

Ryan, a glaze of oils will get everything blended in... it is really good. just. glaze not woodgraining per se with oils... it will look super. when the oils are dry just satin coat it... super!

I have never used vallejo stuff. the thing is i try to use the airbrush for most of my work, even detail painting, and i can go really small with the 0.16 nozzle i use and paint really thinned like ink. I just use tamiya for whatever can only work with a brush, and usually tami MRP and gunze for the airbrush... Maybe i should go and buy myself a couple of those colors for brush painting, apparently vallejo and lifecolor work really well by brush

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Posted (edited)

Do you mean a heavy wash Karim? How thin is the glaze, do you see brush strokes? Sorry I can PM these questions as not to foul your post.

 

Ryan

 

PS the base coat is Tamiya!

Edited by Ryan

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On 3/12/2019 at 12:29 AM, Ryan said:

Do you mean a heavy wash Karim? How thin is the glaze, do you see brush strokes? Sorry I can PM these questions as not to foul your post.

 

Ryan

 

PS the base coat is Tamiya!

 

Ryan no worries at all about fouling the post. This is a group effort and all questions and photo insertions are welcome. At the end of the day we are here to improve and help each other improve through sharing out skills!

To me a glaze is a bit between the consistency of a wash and a filter. A filter but a tad heavier. You will see what it looks like on the next post in terms of effect!

Thanks for dropping by!

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On 3/12/2019 at 2:08 AM, MikeMaben said:

That's a real beauty shaping up there Mr. B   :clap2:

 

 

 

Mr. M it's always a pleasure to have you drop by and reading your comments!

 

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Posted (edited)

Hey gang!

 I had 4 days home so i pushed forward because i will not have alot of time at hand the next coming weeks. 
At this stage we have arrived to the inevitable, the woodgraining, which i actually enjoy very much!
For the woodgraining i have used Uschi Van Der Rosten woodgrain decals as usual but this time i have taken my time to choose the one i found most pleasing to my eye. I was initially going to go for the Ronny Bar version, but then i decided to go for the knotless 'Barnfind' version which later received a couple of glazes of ochre mixed with burn umber to get more of a honey tint to the woodwork. Sealed everything in and then attached the HGW photoetch parts using Krystal Klear of which the excess was then wiped clean with water. On the woodwork i used the HGW nailhead wet transfer set which worked but with the loss of quite a few heads, but it still looks all natural to me. The detail is very refined and can only be seen when you look up close. Next build i will probably use the rivet set plan and will rivet the albatros with the RB riveting tool to accentuate the rivets further. The kit stencils worked a treat snuggling down with some mr softer and setter but the big skull was a real bear to get down even with those and with a hairdrier. To try to weather the big white expanses and the skulls i used micromesh to abrade some of the surface and give it more of a used look. The nail lines can be seen through the micromesh treatment in some of the areas which i found to look nice.  Bear in mind i have not started the weathering on the fuselage yet and what i am doing now is just preweathering which i will accentuate at later stages in the location and amount that will tie everything together. I have also built a new flare rack from a spare piece of pe which i have drilled and scribed then bent and the flares are made of 0.7 albion alu tube. In the Iphone photos in the gallery you can see a wire with the cap on one of the flares but that turned out not to be correct after further research of era photographs and reference material. This has since been discarded. Alot of little things have been added overall and work goes on fixing things here and there and slowly adding stuff along the way while keeping an eye out on the references...
One thing of note which has bugged me quite alot is i found the elevator control rigging to have popped off the rigging flywheel at the extreme forward part of the control column and this has somewhat blown the wind out of my sails to say the least. i will try to find a way to get this fixed whenever i have time, if it is within the realm of possibility... let's see

!DISREGARD THE LANDING GEAR IT IS FROM ONE OF THE OTHER ALBATROS I BUILT AND IS USED JUST TO PROP THE FUSELAGE UP FOR THE PHOTOS!

 

At the point of writing this, and for next update i have completed a scratchbuilt windscreen and frame, changed the landing gear molded on retainers on the leg for more accurate ones with resin bolts and leadsheet, finished decalling the fuselage completely and have started by modifying the top wing to take Bo's 3d printed see through radiator! EDIT: and the leather coaming fasteners which i forgot to mention!

 

Thanks for looking in!

Ryan, for you specifically i have inserted a photo of the woodgrain pre glaze and post glaze so you can see the difference in how it tints the base coat. It's like a filter but a bit heavier in terms of oil paint content. I use quick dry thinners and a hairdryer so basically after half an hour and a couple of hairdryer sessions, i gently blend everything in with a lintfree cloth and the brushstrokes disappear and it all feathers in, then i lock it up with a coat of lacquer clear. hope that helps!

 

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Above pre-glaze

 

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Above post glaze (Ryan!)

 

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Edited by karimb

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