Greg W Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 1 hour ago, Bill Cross said: Flawlessly constructed, but the painting leaves something to be desired. Some pre-shading or filters would help even for "right from the factory" vehicles. Hope that doesn't offend, because otherwise it looks fantastic. Thank you Bill. No offence taken, I am very happy you commented. If you are interested, go back and read the first page of the thread. I explained and showed how the models are going to be finished. The HEMTT is the last model I am building for the film. Dan is just about ready to start wearhering and photographing the models so he can insert them into the various shots of the movie. I am eager to see how they look after Dan works his magic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 On 2/15/2019 at 3:46 PM, GDW said: When Dan hired me to build some models for his film, he first gave me a Revell, 1/35 SnapTite M1, so he could photograph that and see how good or bad it looked when placed into a shot. Here are a few pictures showing how it looked when I gave it to him and then how it looked after Dan applied some pastels and digitally altered the color and lighting. This experiment showed that his idea worked. If a SnapTite model can look this good, when it was basically just dropped into a scene (without much effort because it is a test), a more highly detailed model, with more time spent on lighting, shadow, texture, etc, can look real. So here are the before and after... From page 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 BTW, both tanks in the above picture are the same Snap Tite model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted August 4, 2019 Author Share Posted August 4, 2019 (edited) Just spent some time in Dans studio, doing a couple modifications to two of the models for the film. While I was there, Dan was playing around with the photo manipulation software he is using for the photography. Soon, the sessions photographing the models will start and at some point, I will be able to post some images of how the models look on screen. Also, for those interested, I have posted some more images on page 3, showing the scratch built speaker system mounted on top of the HUMVEE. On Page 4 there are additional photos showing the Italeri HEMTT with the lights and reflectors finished. Edited October 10, 2019 by GDW Eagle Driver, Trak-Tor and Youngtiger1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 What a great project Greg W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) Occasionally our aircraft modeling techniques transfer out into other endeavors, the following is such a case. This movie that these models are for began production a few years ago. In that time, one of the props has been damaged. The item in question, that was filmed early on was a bike that has needed its forks and handle bars replaced. I was asked if I could paint and weather the new parts to look like the originals. I employed standard modeling techniques, just swapping the hobby paints we use with materials designed for cars. I wasn't sure how it would work but it turned out good, especially for a first attempt. Needing to simulate heavily chipped paint, I decided to first paint the forks a dark rusty brown, mask off the chipped areas with tape, spray the red base color then clear coat the forks. My major concern was burying the tape with the clear, preventing easy removal of the numerous tiny masks. Had I sprayed more than two coats, removing the tape would have been really difficult but I kept the film thickness thin and the tape lifted without giving me a hard time. Check it out, modeling techniques 1:1 scale. This is how the bike looked when I received it. The handlebars needed to be natural aluminium, not a problem, just strip the paint. The forks had a black primer coat from the factory, which turned out to be a good thing. I found some dark, red brown primer that I sprayed on very thinly in some areas and heavier in others allowing some of the black to show through. This gave various tones which provided the foundation for the rusty chip color underneath the red. Edited January 4, 2020 by GDW BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) Here you can see I'm starting to apply the masking tape to the chipped areas. The original fork is on the left. Edited January 4, 2020 by GDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) The red color coat has been applied in the following pictures. Edited January 4, 2020 by GDW BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) Two coats of clear and the forks were left to dry overnight. Edited January 4, 2020 by GDW BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) The moment of truth! It took me about an hour and forty five minutes to carefully remove all of the tiny bits of tape. They did need some encouragement to lift away from the fork. A single edged razor was used because I forgot to bring my Xacto knife to the shop. The plan now is to use oil paint to make the exposed rust chip areas more rusty looking. I like to mix the oil paint with AK Odorless Thinner which drastically speeds up the drying time and the paint also dries dead flat. Also, I will air brush on a little more grime and use oil dot filtering to round out the weathering. All that coming up next... Edited January 4, 2020 by GDW Youngtiger1 and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) Edited January 4, 2020 by GDW BiggTim and DonH 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Good stuff. But the fork is not square at the top, won't that make a bigger difference then the paint? Also was are those 2 beautiful cars in the background Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) On 1/4/2020 at 8:46 AM, Neo said: Good stuff. But the fork is not square at the top, won't that make a bigger difference then the paint? Also was are those 2 beautiful cars in the background Hi Neo, it was explained to me that the bike as of yet, has not been filmed up close, so the difference in shape is not obvious but the color and condition of the forks need to match what was already shot since they are visible. Also, close up shots of the bike will be filmed in the future so thats what is behind the extra work. The orange car is a 1970 GTX and the one in the foreground is a 1967 GTO. Greg Edited January 7, 2020 by GDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Oh that makes sense. Omg you are lucky to have those beauties in your garage!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 A good friend of mine has a restoration shop where he is fixing up the GTO and GTX. They don't belong to me. I do have access to the paint booth on the rare occasions I would like to use it, like when I wanted to spray the aluminum hull and gun barrel on the 1/16 Tamiya Abrams with epoxy bare metal primer. It's very nice to have a friend with a body shop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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