HerculesPA_2 Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 Hello my friend!! I will start in the 3D printing business also for my models soon. Which 3D printer do you use, my friend? Grande abraço! big hug Hercules de Araujo Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark64 Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 this is my favorite build so far. so nice Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted November 4, 2019 Author Share Posted November 4, 2019 On 10/30/2019 at 7:07 PM, HerculesPA_2 said: Hello my friend!! I will start in the 3D printing business also for my models soon. Which 3D printer do you use, my friend? Grande abraço! big hug Hercules de Araujo Hercules, I use an Anycubic Photon for small, detailed parts and a Creality CR-10S for large parts. HerculesPA_2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 I am hugely motivated to work on my models since quite some time, but few things are going to plan at the moment - the reappearing cracks on the Skywarrior drive me nuts and the air intakes of my resurrected , heavily modified Revell Tomcat are fighting me with all their force. This and the arrival of the aluminium sheet I ordered some time ago led to the decision to give skinning the MH-53E a go. I have probably chosen a pretty difficult area to start with, but it helps to get a feeling how to cut and sand the resulting panels. The biggest problem I face is not necessarily cutting the templates and the panels, but the riveting. The MH-53E is covered with thousands of raised rivets which I am not sure how to do. The tools I have do not seem to be suited to this task (and believe me, I have tons of riveting tools...). I am not a huge fan of riveting wheels as they don't offer enough control IMO, metal tips go through the material, the blunt ones I have are too thick, etc. Then, it does not seem to be possible to properly sand the panels with the raised rivets added, so they don't look crisp enough. As scribing the material - which would be my preferred option - does not work as intended, I am currently thinking about several options: - skinning the model but using decals for the rivets - making templates, scanning them, redraw them on the pc, add rivets and have them photoetched. HPH uses this method to do the (raised) surface detail of their models. The problem I see is that the scanning and redrawing process adds more possible sources for mistakes and inaccuracies and I have to admit I am not really in a mood for hours of trial and error. As you can see, I am in the mood to build and to make progress, but it's not that easy. Any hints or tips would be appreciated... HerculesPA_2, kkarlsen, dodgem37 and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Nice surface. With all of that being said, your option is decals as rivets. You'll never gain the rivet dome by reverse imprinting any material. If you do templates, you can do a rivet decal sheet for simple surfaces and individual lines for complicated surfaces. I'm sure Archer Decal, or someone, would do them for you. Anything can be gotten for a price. Sheets would save you some time over individual lines of rivets. Just my take. Good luck. Sincerely, Mark Uncarina, Starfighter and KiwiZac 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Further thought, I don't know what your 3D printer can do, but maybe you can print rivets on a clear decal sheet rather than sending it out. Just a thought. Good luck. Sincerely, Mark Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Micromark produces quite cheaper A4 sheets of rivets similar to the Archer ones. Personally this is what I would do. Starfighter and KiwiZac 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 Mark & Thierry, thanks for your input! The problem is that the Micromark rivets are much less consistent in shape compared with the Archer ones - this sadly is only visible under a coat of paint. I have used a few meters of both and I'd prefer to use Archer rivets. I've been thinking about the model the whole day and I haven't come to a conclusion yet. If I can manage to translate the templates into perfectly shaped panels in my drawing program, the result could be absolutely perfect surface detail... Mark, the idea sounds great but printing onto decal film sadly isn't possible, at least with my printer. Out2gtcha, HerculesPA_2, stusbke and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Ben, Have you tried to engage Peter Castle (of Airscale)? I know I've seen him use the "reverse" riveting method for raised rivets on the aluminum printers sheets................he might know of a technique that would work to your satisfaction? Starfighter and USMC Herc 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 I have actually re-read his entire Spitfire and Tigercat thread and his tutorial... I may have missed it, but it seems both models were covered with flush rivets. Peter's input would be more than welcome of course! Seems my aluminium foil is a tad soft for some areas but I simply could not get hold of "proper" litho plate for a reasonable price. USMC Herc, Out2gtcha and HerculesPA_2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipper Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 You can consider using HGW free lines. https://hgwmodels.cz/cs/28-meritko-132 they are quite easy to apply and those with pitch 1.2 mm could be enough for this project. Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 Flipper, the problem with the HGW rivets is that they are too flat. I have some of their sheets and I think they would be too subtle compared with the real thing. HerculesPA_2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 2 minutes ago, Starfighter said: I have actually re-read his entire Spitfire and Tigercat thread and his tutorial... I may have missed it, but it seems both models were covered with flush rivets. Peter's input would be more than welcome of course! Seems my aluminium foil is a tad soft for some areas but I simply could not get hold of "proper" litho plate for a reasonable price. I actually am the one who procured (or should I say received here) Peters litho plate for him. Did you want me to look and see the "brand" as it were, or where it came from if that might help? Starfighter and USMC Herc 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 That would be highly appreciated, Brian! But then, I found some in the US and shipping cost was extremely high. Any additional source would be of interes, though - thank you very much in advance! HerculesPA_2 and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Just now, Starfighter said: That would be highly appreciated, Brian! But then, I found some in the US and shipping cost was extremely high. Any additional source would be of interes, though - thank you very much in advance! Depending on what you consider "extremely high" I could do the same thing I did for Peter, and that is have the plate shipped to my house, then I could ship it to you if it would save on shipping at all. Im not sure what Peter had to pay to send it to me, and dont recall off hand how much it was to send to him. To save on weight and cost, I kept the original shipment with a heavy pack of plates and only shipped him what he needs as he needs it. It really cut down on the cost. Then he (like you) could just have a little shipped as you need and keep the shipping to a more reasonable cost, if something like that would be of service. Ill check tonight and see where Peters litho came from and Ill LYK. Cheers! Starfighter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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