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How would YOU do this camo?


Out2gtcha

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27 minutes ago, ringleheim said:

An interesting point!  It might well be.  It almost reminds me of ALCLAD metallics, and they are very thin out of the bottle indeed! 

 

 

Yep, me too, its probably the thinnest out of bottle paint Ive ever shot.   I find it interesting that they (MRP themselves) refer to the paint as "ink" which now in a way seems appropriate considering its thinness. 

 

I never really considered them ink before as the definition seemed really silly to me, but now after a year or more of using the paint, the one thing I was upset about in the beginning (that they are "pre-thinned" right out of the bottle) is one of the things than to me helps make the paint superior. Having the ultra thin mixture bang on each and every time is super handy. 

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One other important tip not mentioned yet but you are probably aware of

 

Start your airflow off the model as you go in to do each spot (without pulling the trigger obviously...just press)

 

If you don't the air flow might pick up some stray paint on your tip and spatter it over the work piece 

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2 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

I never really considered them ink before as the definition seemed really silly to me, but now after a year or more of using the paint,

 

I remember that discussion , people thot I was nutz for suggesting such a thing.  :rolleyes::whistle:

 

1 hour ago, JeffH said:

         If you don't the air flow might pick up some stray paint on your tip and spatter it over the work piece 

 

I like to wear a nitrile glove on my left hand and start on that to make

sure I've got a nice flow before hitting the surface.  I wear gloves anyway.

 

Good luck Brian. Just have fun and remember , the more you do it the better

you get. Mottles 'are' actually fun once you get the hang of it.  :thumbsup:

 

 

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Lately I've been experimenting with sanding and tinting successive coats.  Very often the German mottle looks quite washed out at the edges up close in period photos.   And there's no hint of overspray, so sanding away our 1/1 scale overspray makes perfect sense to me.  The tint changes are made to offer subtle color variations without having to mess with any kind of pre-shading, black-basing or any other technique that is hard to see when a second color is applied.   I feel it's greatly improved my Luftwaffe camo.

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At the risk of going slightly off-topic here, I am often amazed at the artistry of Luftwaffe camouflage and German Panzer camouflage from WWII.  Some painters got very artistic effects out of the spray guns they were using at the time.

 

I'm surprised those big guns could deliver such delicate application of paint.

 

When I watch car restoration TV shows and they are spraying in the paint booth, those things blast away and I couldn't imagine getting delicate fading, misting effects as a lot of these German painters did in WWII.


It would kind of interesting to get a hold of a period German spray gun and have at it, to learn what those things were capable of.

 

 

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Hi Brian, may I also suggest winding in your fluid. I normally have the fluid wound out half a turn to a full turn to do mottling but you will find that you may have to adjust as you go. Cant comment on MRP as I use mainly Tamiya acrylics.

 

You need to get onto my friends Facebook page. You may of heard of him... Ralph Riese. Garage Session Modelling. Some awesome mottled camo jobs on there and you can ask him about them.

 

Hth

 

Cheers Bevan 

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Yep! I usually dial the paint and PSI way down. The funny (and very cool) thing about MRP paint is that it needs 0 thinning, since it is so ULTRA thin and sprayable right out of the bottle with a perfect thinning ratio.

 

IVe got a paint mule and Im going to do loads of experimenting from all the advice given in this thread!

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3 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

IVe got a paint mule and Im going to do loads of experimenting from all the advice given in this thread!

Good idea.

A bit more drivel from me about this.

As I said earlier if you are going to bite the bullet and do it freehand (I think tis the only way really) then get things together to be able to brace your arm on something.

Have some sheets of paper pretty near the model to practise on.

Get the old muscle memory going and keep going on the paper until things are consistent then just move quickly across to the model (or move the model to your existing position) and carry on.

If you bork one up don't stop but do another and come back and fix it later.

Just my warped opinion of course.

:D

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4 hours ago, PhilB said:

Good idea.

A bit more drivel from me about this.

As I said earlier if you are going to bite the bullet and do it freehand (I think tis the only way really) then get things together to be able to brace your arm on something.

Have some sheets of paper pretty near the model to practise on.

Get the old muscle memory going and keep going on the paper until things are consistent then just move quickly across to the model (or move the model to your existing position) and carry on.

If you bork one up don't stop but do another and come back and fix it later.

Just my warped opinion of course.

:D

 

 

All great advice mate..............getting your muscle memory trained to do the freehand like I want is my aim. Its been a while for me and freehand, so I'm going to get a lot of practice in til its down like I want it to look

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Not an expert at mottling but I've done this several ways, on my Oscar I cheated and brush painted the mottles, on my 262 I used the Airwaves PE mask and used Blu Tac to keep a gap between the mask and the model, for the 219 I did it free hand and tried to shape the mottles to make it seem like a 76 snake. Some of the mottles "grew" as I was doing the paint job and I had to go back and re shape them with 76, I am not a whizz with an airbrush but I was very pleased with the result.

Here is the 219

 

https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=1073

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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