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chuck540z3

1/32 Kitty Hawk F-5E Kicked Up A Notch. Oct 3/19. Finished!

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One thing you can try to combat the beading is to apply the decal solution with a cotton bud, rather than a paint brush. It introduces its own problems (such as insufficient coverage), but generally prevents beading to any problematic extent.

 

Kev

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April 17/19

 

A quick public service announcement.  Like most of you guys, I use a lot of microbrushes of every description and go through maybe a hundred per model.  Purchased from my local hobby shop, they can cost $0.20/each or more.  I've bought them in bulk from the usual modeling internet sites for about half of that, but that was when I was looking for "Modeling or Hobby Microbrushes".  I discovered by accident a few years ago that if I looked for "Makeup or Dental Microbrushes", I found the very same thing- and more selection- for only $0.02/each!

 

Here's my latest order from ebay (or Amazon).  4 X 400 = 1,600 microbrushes for $31.50, delivered free to my door from China.  At this price, I don't have to worry about keeping any of them clean.

 

KqumrR.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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13 hours ago, chuck540z3 said:

Like most of you guys, I use a lot of microbrushes of every description and go through maybe a hundred per model

 

Hi

 

Nope, never used them. What do you use them for ?

 

Vincent

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Vincent/MDC said:

Hi

 

Nope, never used them. What do you use them for ?

 

Vincent

 

Hi Vincent.  I use a LOT of CA glue in my builds, so I use them mostly to apply glue, clean-up glue with CA glue remover and make the glue harden fast with accelerator.  I also use them to apply putty, clean-up dust, apply washes, clean up washes with solvent and I even use them as soft abrasives when I want to buff out an imperfection.  To do all this I need a variety of brush widths, from super fine to much larger and when the brush head is contaminated and no longer usable, I pull it off and use the remainder of the brush handle to apply glue when I need something super fine, which many do with toothpicks or dedicated glue applicators.  In any given modeling session, I usually have 4-5 of them lying around in all stages of still being usable to garbage.  When buying them in bulk as shown above, it's nice to know that I can throw out 5 of them and it only cost a dime.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Edited by chuck540z3

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Posted (edited)

April 27/19

 

 

Another update, but before I show anything, I was asked what I meant above when I said that a part of this build got the “Chuck Treatment”.  All that means is that every single piece of plastic is sanded smooth, every panel line re-scribed and every rivet re-punched- sometimes several times between sanding sessions which remove detail.  Some panel lines are added, others are removed and then I use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in Black to check my work.  You’d be surprised how many flaws that you can’t see pop out with this wash, which means less corrections later after a first coat of paint.

 

 

That’s a good segue into this next step with the tail of the jet.  The vertical stabilizer is two-piece like most kits, but instead of two equal sides, this one is split half-way on one side, which is a real pain to fix.  Further, there’s a sink mark and other surface flaws on the plastic.  My subject doesn’t have the fin cap, so it should be cut off and slightly rounded at the front edge.

 

 oSePGN.jpg

 

 

Again, after the “Chuck Treatment” of about 6 hours, it can look pretty darn good if I do say so myself.  The rudder and horizontal stabilizers are just dry fit.

 

 

2ng9xl.jpg

 

 

XyCFz3.jpg

 

 

 

There’s a circular gizmo that isn’t on my jet, so I cut it off and the main seam should be filled with panel lines rescribed.  You’d be surprised how many builds of this kit out there retained this seam as a panel line.  The bottom join is a bit crude, but with careful sanding and some thinned putty, the gap is filled.

 

 

 

3baRU0.jpg

 

 

 

Same with the front of the tail fin.  There should be only one panel line that extends down the sides and not two, so the front seam should be filled and sanded smooth.  Again, CA glue is clear and you can’t tell that it’s filled.  Checking references, I forgot to add another panel at the rear, which will be the demarcation line from black paint to titanium.

 

 

 

EugGpt.jpg

 

 

 

The horizontal stabilizers were sanded thinner and all trialing edges were sanded to a sharp edge.  The holes for the stabilizers are too wide, so I used a few coats of CA glue to tighten them up nice and snug for later installation.

 

 

 

L4S1ok.jpg

 

 

Frontal view for reference.

 

 

MzwJdy.jpg

 

 

 

In my earlier post of the wings, Paulo kindly pointed out that the ailerons were drooping down too low, which is the natural angle of the kit parts.

 

 

zafttM.jpg

 

 

The fix is tricky, but I found the main culprit is the outside hinges, which are too thick on the bottom, forcing the aileron down too far.  I carefully trimmed them with a knife, but to ensure a perfect angle, I glued them in with thin cement which is much stronger than CA glue after paint.  All other parts will be left off for ease of painting.  Note that the correct angle has the horizontal panel line on the aileron at the bottom of the wing- and no lower.

 

 

kknTJm.jpg

 

 

 

 

That’s it for now boys.  I’m off on another vacation in a week, because we Geezers need to travel while we're still above the dirt!

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3

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Great work as always, Chuck.

 

Looking at the photos of the ailerons, the hinges seem to be less prominent compared to the kit version and also there seems to be less of a gap between the LE of the aileron and the wing. Are there more parts to add from the kit or is that just how it is?

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Guys!

 

7 hours ago, DonH said:

Great work as always, Chuck.

 

Looking at the photos of the ailerons, the hinges seem to be less prominent compared to the kit version and also there seems to be less of a gap between the LE of the aileron and the wing. Are there more parts to add from the kit or is that just how it is?

 

Agreed Don, but what you see is much better than what you get with the kit parts.  The aileron hinges don't fit at all and you need to sand between the teeth of each hinge to reduce the width by about 25% in order to get them to mesh- and even then its not very accurate.  The inside of each aileron should be higher, but if you did that, the outside wouldn't fit and the aileron would be crooked.  Some builds of this kit have the ailerons flat to improve the look, but that's not very natural for a parked jet.  As we need to say once in awhile with every build, I'm calling this flaw "Good Enough"!

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3

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what do you mean by "bottom of the hinge"?  It looks much better with the ailerons a bit higher, for sure.

 

 

Can't wait to see this thing in paint, it's going to be stunning.

 

 

 

Matt 

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38 minutes ago, scvrobeson said:

what do you mean by "bottom of the hinge"?  It looks much better with the ailerons a bit higher, for sure.

Matt 

 

With the ailerons glued on, this is tricky to show, but using an older pic of the wing, the outside hinges are shallower on the bottom than the inner hinges.  These need to be thinned on the bottom.

 

9trntA.jpg

 

Because they fit in a closed compartment within the aileron that is covered, while the inner hinge is not.  Left as is, the outer hinge pushes the aileron down too far, which is why most of the builds of this kit have it too low.

 

hnh14B.jpg

 

HTH,

Chuck

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Amazing work as always Chuck, I wish I could do the 'Chuck treatment', my Chuck treatment is chuck it out and watch an expert! <_<

Enjoy the holiday. 

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