VintageEagle Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Chuck, outstanding work and tutorials! Your models are so detailed, accurate and crisp. One question: are you using black ink or water color for highlighting the rivets and panel lines? Is it only to see them better or also because the may darken the rivets and lines even after a coat of the main aircraft color? Cheers, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, dsahling1 said: We really need to get you into doing a highly weathered aircraft, like a Russian Su-27 from the arctic region or an old MiG-29. Airbrushing these requires a lot of skill, patience, and study, but its a lot of fun. I've been in the middle of a little modeling hiatus (soon to be over once I get some custom decals in the mail), I'm doing a 1/32 scale diorama featuring 3 Su-27 Flankers, 1 Mi-8 Hip, a couple Russian ground vehicles, figures/ground crew & equipment, terrain, etc. I'm planning on turning it into a WIP once I've gotten the first "test" plane done and have mastered and figured out the building techniques. Anyhow I think once you see the airbrushing result from the technique I use you might take an interest :-) Consider it for next time! Really? Been there, done that I'm afraid, but I'd love to see your diorama when it's finished. Including my Spitfire above, these bad boys are pretty weathered already. 1 hour ago, VintageEagle said: Chuck, outstanding work and tutorials! Your models are so detailed, accurate and crisp. One question: are you using black ink or water color for highlighting the rivets and panel lines? Is it only to see them better or also because the may darken the rivets and lines even after a coat of the main aircraft color? Cheers, Roger Thank you! I generally use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (TPLAC) after a gloss acrylic clear coat like X-22 and now I no longer highlight every rivet or panel line. While that can look cool, it's not very realistic, because not all of them should be accented. For my Spitfire, I didn't use any dark washes and instead highlighted some panel lines and rivets with light metallic pastels instead. Here's the back of my Eagle. There is some highlighting with TPLAC, but most of it was left alone, like the tiny rivet detail along the spine. I will be doing the same thing on this model, but since it will likely be black, I will be using lighter washes instead. Cheers, Chuck Edited January 12, 2019 by chuck540z3 A-10LOADER, matt_1185, F`s are my favs and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Chuck, here we go again! Love watching your work. Gaz chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Gregor Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Beer and popcorn ready... I am looking forward to this build. It will be fabolous as usually and thank you for the great taking pics tutorial... Harold and chuck540z3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squizzy 78 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 This build is already awesome, and it's only just starting! It's great to see your posting your builds here again Chuck, for me reading your posts and tutorials is another hobby on its own. I'm on board for this build, bring it on! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Chuck, i'm strapped in! Awesome beginning of the F-5! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 'The masking alone would be weeks of work!' Chuck, the scheme was done free-hand. What do you mean mask? Sincerely, Mark chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 16 hours ago, chuck540z3 said: Thank you! I generally use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (TPLAC) after a gloss acrylic clear coat like X-22 and now I no longer highlight every rivet or panel line. While that can look cool, it's not very realistic, because not all of them should be accented. For my Spitfire, I didn't use any dark washes and instead highlighted some panel lines and rivets with light metallic pastels instead. Thank you Chuck for the explanation and the nice photos to illustrate! I agree with you that not all lines should be highlighted to achieve a realistic look. I assume you are using some water-based paint for highlighting the rivets and lines on the unpainted parts (to check the quality of scribing, riveting, etc.)? Cheers, Roger chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) 31 minutes ago, VintageEagle said: Thank you Chuck for the explanation and the nice photos to illustrate! I agree with you that not all lines should be highlighted to achieve a realistic look. I assume you are using some water-based paint for highlighting the rivets and lines on the unpainted parts (to check the quality of scribing, riveting, etc.)? Cheers, Roger Actually no. I use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in black directly on the plastic with no harm, even though the instructions caution that it might. Because it’s a bit harder to remove than on a clear coat, I now try not to apply it to detail that I will be removing, which is why the original shot of the starboard side is so washed out. I used to do that, but the areas I changed looked like the areas I filled with CA glue, so it became too confusing in my photos. Now the TPLAC not only accents what I want for detail, but also what is flawed that I should fix, which reduces the number of flaws I find after a first coat of paint. A few more comments: I use enamels and lacquer paints mostly and the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colors I use are also enamel, so I need to protect the paint with an acrylic clear barrier before I apply it. Since I’m already using Tamiya acrylic X-22 clear gloss to prep the model for decals, this step has already been done. I can then add the TPLAC to wherever I want it, let it dry for 10 minutes, then wipe it off with solvent on a rag with no fear that it will harm the paint. Some will use other dark washes like oil paints dissolved in solvents the same way, but I really like the super thin and dense properties of TPLAC that quickly bleeds into fine detail without any buildup. It comes in 4 colors and the bottles have a fine brush for application, identical to Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. When you wipe off the TPLAC, use a rag with hardly any solvent, otherwise you might remove too much of the wash and need to reapply. If you can’t or don’t want to use an acrylic clear coat, like on a metallic finish, the Flory Pro Modeler water based washes work OK, but they are a bit granular and getting an even look can be tricky. Also, the Tamiya lacquers I use, decanted from a rattle can, are really tough when they dry and I can use TPLAC on them directly without an acrylic barrier, but I need to be careful and not scrub the wash too much or I could harm the paint. Cheers, Chuck Edited January 13, 2019 by chuck540z3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, dodgem37 said: 'The masking alone would be weeks of work!' Chuck, the scheme was done free-hand. What do you mean mask? Sincerely, Mark Dang you Marcel! Now I’m having second thoughts about my black paint scheme. That Tiger scheme looks killer, and yes, I need to mask it. The boys in the hanger can spray it free-hand, but at 1/32 scale? I don’t think so. What do you guys think? At least I have lots of time to think about it. Update. I am putting all the pieces of the cockpit together, at least dry fitted mostly, including the canopy opening/closing bits, which when combined, has to be the most complicated contraption I have ever seen on a Jet! This will take awhile, but I think I’m now winning using a combination of Black Box and kit parts. Cheers, Chuck Edited January 13, 2019 by chuck540z3 A-10LOADER, Marcel111 and Harold 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 My vote: Tiger scheme! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarioS Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Chuck nice to see you back at LSP I also have jumped in for this Great Ride looking forward to this great 2019 Kitty Hawk F-5E Kicked Up A Notch... Build chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusbke Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Nice to see the F-5 getting the "kicked up a notch" treatment as for the scheme there's a set of masks available through Aero Masks http://www.advmodprds.com/f532.html just to give you a heads up Ps I'm doing the red 21 love that scheme... Cheers Frederick Jacobs Kagemusha and chuck540z3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) 20 minutes ago, stusbke said: Nice to see the F-5 getting the "kicked up a notch" treatment as for the scheme there's a set of masks available through Aero Masks http://www.advmodprds.com/f532.html just to give you a heads up Ps I'm doing the red 21 love that scheme... Cheers Frederick Jacobs You guys! With those masks to make it so much easier, I’m feeling a lot of pressure to go Full Tiger. Black is really cool, but come on..... This is all Marcel’s fault. Aaagh! Chuck Edited January 13, 2019 by chuck540z3 Marcel111, stusbke and A-10LOADER 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 You could always make another one all in black... We would watch. chuck540z3 and stusbke 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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