jimbo Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 Ahhh, thanks for that intel Carl, both bits. Since the rocker cover fitment looks tenuous at best, I may indeed not bother with the rear set then. These will be closed cowls. I read somewhere the reduction housings were “off” but not that they were upside down! Too late for a fix there I’m afraid. They do look a little weak for sure but hopefully the props, and data plate decals, will help hide the mess. Im not looking to enter any contests, well just a contest of my will to get a build done! Thanks again to all. Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Great work so far!! The HKM kit is really nice, and other than adding what you already are going to (Master barrels, G-Factor gear, new props, wheels) the kit doesnt need a ton. Looking forward to more! jimbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Thanks Brian! Just looking for more time. I know those plug wires are absurdly oversized but I don’t mind. I’m trying not to get too bound up in dreaded analysis paralysis. Onward then! Jimbo Out2gtcha and Jack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 Some small progress on a rainy Friday morning. Seems rainy days are made for hot coffee, playing hooky and modeling! This morning I worked on the empennage parts, gluing them together: After fighting a trailing edge that wouldn’t quite close up nicely, on closer inspection I found raised areas on the mating surfaces that resulted, I think, from the molding process: You can see the zig-zag pattern of very slightly raised plastic that corresponds to the fabric detail on the outside. With some diligent scraping and sanding I was able to relieve these areas for a tighter glue join at the trailing edges of the rudders and elevators. B-25 builders if you haven’t gotten this far check your parts. If left as is considerable sanding to achieve a thinner trailing edge would have wiped away the nice surface detail. Now back to the WNW channel LOL.... Jimbo BradG, LSP_Kevin, BloorwestSiR and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 Two of the things that frustrate me when building kits are paint order and build order. Chicken or the egg? Which comes first? I spend a lot of time spinning my wheels trying to decide which, usually to then just plunge ahead and just do it for heavens sake! Here I’ve painted the cowl interiors aluminum: And here I’m painting the exhaust stubs, first a dark brown base and then a mist of red primer for a rusty effect (I might hit them with some rust powders during installation): I think I’ll do the cowl exteriors prior to bringing these all together. Onward! Jimbo Anthony in NZ, BradG, LSP_Ray and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 6 hours ago, jimbo said: Two of the things that frustrate me when building kits are paint order and build order. Chicken or the egg? Which comes first? I spend a lot of time spinning my wheels trying to decide which, usually to then just plunge ahead and just do it for heavens sake! Here I’ve painted the cowl interiors aluminum: And here I’m painting the exhaust stubs, first a dark brown base and then a mist of red primer for a rusty effect (I might hit them with some rust powders during installation): I think I’ll do the cowl exteriors prior to bringing these all together. Onward! Jimbo That's sort of where mine are stuck so I know exactly what you mean Jimbo. As for the control surfaces, I haven't come across the extra material that you have on yours. Maybe a qc issue? Carl BradG and Erwin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Exhausts turned out nice, Jimbo! jimbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted April 6, 2019 Author Share Posted April 6, 2019 Thanks as always fellows for the kind remarks. Bench time is precious lately but, and I’m sure I’m not the only one here susceptible to it, a new tool has pushed me to take some time to do a little work. In this case I purchased a UMM-USA PropMaster prop jig. Wow, do I love this tool! My thanks to Mr. Vojtech for ridiculously fast turnaround and for a great product. I have mentioned previously that that I thought I’d use the spare blades from my HK Lancaster kit to replace the somewhat misshapen B-25 blades. Since these blades had a different mounting lug than the B-25 blades, and were a bit long, I first removed about 2.5 mm or .100 inch of material from the hub end with my trusty razor saw: This effectively removed the squared-off mounting lug: Thereby, with a little cleanup with a sanding stick, the blades were ready to glue directly to the hubs: All that remains is is to fill a few voids on the back side at the joins and the props are ready for paint. Onward! Jimbo LSP_Ray, Whitey, Out2gtcha and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 Nice! jimbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Good show.......Having built a lot of resin kits my Propmaster jig had long since paid for itself. Very handy bit O kit jimbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Hmmm interesting I tried to get the (loon model?) resin prop, but couldn't. And since I dont have a lancaster lying around, what needs to be done to get a reasonable B-25 prop ?? Can I shape the blades in the kit or what ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrov27 Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Build is looking great! 31 minutes ago, Thomas Lund said: Hmmm interesting I tried to get the (loon model?) resin prop, but couldn't. And since I dont have a lancaster lying around, what needs to be done to get a reasonable B-25 prop ?? Can I shape the blades in the kit or what ? AMS makes improved B-25 prop blades - out of stock at Sprue Bros but you might find elsewhere or if you use their "email me when in stock" function I have had success with that.... http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/ams32061.htm Jack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 Thanks fellows; On 4/9/2019 at 9:22 AM, Thomas Lund said: Hmmm interesting I tried to get the (loon model?) resin prop, but couldn't. And since I dont have a lancaster lying around, what needs to be done to get a reasonable B-25 prop ?? Can I shape the blades in the kit or what ? Well, Thomas, hmmmm indeed! So even after fabricating my props from spares I still never gave them much thought. An egregious error to be sure as there are clearly many varieties of aircraft propellers! Here is a photo from my main reference book (North American B-25 Mitchell The Ultimate Look) of what looks to be a proper B-25 propeller, shared with “fair use” for educational purposes in mind: The book I'm using states the following for propeller specifications for B-25s: C/D models equipped with Hamilton-Standard Model 23ESO-473 H/J models equipped with Hamilton Standard Model 1301F So it appears those are the HUB specifications, the BLADE specs are Model 6359A-18. Here is a photo of a 6359 blade from the “Aeroart” website: And finally a photo of the HK B-25 blades. You can see they are too wide. I’ve drawn with a black marker how much could be shaved off to better replicate the 6359 blades: If you shave the first one to your liking and then trace it on plastic sheet to make a template I think you can quite easily re-shape these blades. You’d likely have to thin the trailing edges a bit since you’re cutting in to the meat of the blade some. I’m almost tempted to draw a jig to hold the blades and trim them with the laser but it doesn’t like pure styrene, too melty. Let us know if you try this out! Jimbo LSP_Ray, Trak-Tor and BradG 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Thanks Jimbo - great info. Doesn't look too bad - a little modeling skills should settle that just fine. Will try as soon as I get back Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Just moved this from the Multi-engine GB at Jim's request. Kev jimbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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