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"The Star of Africa" - Hans-Joachim Marseille's Do-335 A-2/Trop - Yellow 14 - FINISHED!


Out2gtcha

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I started off attempting to use Scotch Brite pads as recommended in another forum. Because I used a light gray base, and shot a light blue color, the results were not as neat looking as they would have been with black, and I kind of wanted to keep a light theme with this one.

So, I just ended up dialing the PSI on the compressor down, and since Im using MRP, its already plenty thin enough to shoot at low PSI, I then dialed back the needle setting about as minimal as it would get and still shoot. Then I got real close to my work, and added small random patterns:

 

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Then I let that harden off for a bit.............

 

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Then I came back and put few thin light coats of RLM 78 over the top of things to blend it all together.

 

From the pics, you'd have thought I wasted my time with all that random pattern spraying prior to this, but surprisingly, the varying patters are a lot more noticeable IRL. The pics make it look extra subtle, but in the flesh its more clear.

I still like the way the 78 ended up:

 

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Its now in my heated workshop room hardening off, so knowing MRPs drying times, I should be ready to shoot some RLM 79 later tonight or tomorrow!

 

Cheers,

 

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Thanks boys! Im happy with things at this stage, but the hardest part is yet to come...................but also the most fun!   Im thinking of trying a new way of masking the spray demark lines for the RLM 79. I normally go for rolls of blu tak, but as those who use it know, its very hard to get a consistent edge with it. 

 

Per a build I saw in the forums (cant remember who off hand) Im going to try thick "kite string".  Its not too thick, but will provide the consistent edge that Im looking for. I have a couple ideas on how to best hold it in place while spraying too.

 

Stay tuned! 

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Thanks gents.

 

1 hour ago, MikeMaben said:

OK I give up. What's with the naked MLG doors ?   :shrug:

 

HKM gives you two sets of MLG doors, one for the A model and a different one for the B.

In order to use either set in the closed position or as a mask, you have to clip the "open"nubs off them, so I used the A model set for paint masks and clipped the mounting points off of them, then painted the B model set I'm actually using separately.

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First up, Im trying a new experiment here...................kite string instead of blu tack for masking. I saw a gent on the forums use this to seeming good effect, so wanted to try it out. I started out with a normal, fairly thin string, but thick enough to create a nice daintily feathered edge. 

 

Not knowing what I was doing, I just used some small strips of tape to initially hold the string in position while i figured out the rest of the masking:

 

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It took a bit, but got the rest of the masking completed, using some 1/4" strips to attach the string to the model. In the end I got there.  Now all done and masked up,  ready for some RLM 79:

 

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Then it was on to the initial steps of adding tonal variation with the first sprays of RLM 79............................

 

 

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First splashes of Sandgelb :

 

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I found the RLM 79 surprisingly translucent. The light blue covered way, WAY better, but figured its clear nature would lend itself well to the highly faded out (but not necessarily chipped up) paint I was going for.  

 

In the end, I did get there but took a min or or a 120................

 

 

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