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ericg

RAAF FAC OV-10A the back seater.

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Posted (edited)

After finishing the O-2 and finally getting around to getting a proper display base done for it, it was time to get moving on the OV-10. After all, you can’t have a proper RAAF FAC in Vietnam collection without the Bronco.

 

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Not much of an update but I have started wiring up the cockpit. This is an area which I felt will bottle neck this build so I have got stuck into it. 

 

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Edited by ericg

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Thanks Brian. I do like your white EZline idea it looks great. I was a little concerned at how it might react to paint and washes over time though.

 

Another action shot of Graham.

 

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Some more work.  

 

I tidied up up the wiring, glueing short lengths of plastic rod onto the fuse boxes to simulate plugs and sticking the lead wire into them. They should look pretty good once painted.

 

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I carved some T shaped fire handles from plastic card and installed them on the rear IP

 

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Much has been said about the way the wings, booms and fuselage join together. This is one area of the kit that I think could have been done a bit better. I assembled a long spar that went from one wingtip to the other. This was made from plastic tube for ease of glueing it into the wings with styrene glue. I then used a length of brass square tube, to allow me to bend and set the angles of the wing in case of any alignment issues and then used some think music wire in the middle for overall strength.

 

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Wings attached. 

 

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Hi Mark,

 

Try sending a message now please.

 

Some more work. I have seen a couple of these models built and noticed that the undercarriage is a little flimsy. This is a well known issue with the kit and it requires a solution. I know that there is an aftermarket brass set available but sometimes I prefer a home grown solution.

 

The issue that I can see is that the wheels will bow outward with the twisting of the undercarriage leg with any weight put on it.

 

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I drilled a hole  through the front cylinder of the gear leg

 

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Using a dremel bit I then ground a trench along the horizontal part of the leg, including the axle where the wheel attaches 

 

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I bent some thick music wire to fit the hole and trench that I made in the parts.

 

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This piece of wire fits into the part.

 

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Once I had glued the wire into place with super glue, I used a mix of talcum powder and superglue to fill and replace the material removed. Once sanded back to the correct profile, I sprayed the part with SMS primer filler and smoothed it out.

 

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The obligatory weight test. 

 

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A small feature that I have noticed on a lot of period photos is the air vent open in front of the windshield. These sorts of details are well worth adding to give the model a bit of life. The kit has this as a raised panel.

 

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I scribed this panel with a pin using a photo etch template. Once happy with the shape, I deepened the scribed lines before using a micro chisel to remove a rectangle of material from the area.

 

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Using some thin aluminium and plastic card I made the small pop up vent. I will leave this off until after the model is painted,

 

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I envy your creativity in problem-solving and your dexterity in bringing them to fruition.  Looking forward to the completion of this project.

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Yep, the OOB gear will definitely splay, even with 5+ degrees of positive camber added, especially when displayed on a glass shelf.  Lesson learned from Glens KHM demo model, and one I wont repeat on #3! 

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Some more work.

 

I added the small friction lever on the throttle quadrant from plastic card and then primed the cockpit. 

 

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I then pre shaded the shadowed areas of the cockpit with black paint

 

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This was followed by a couple of thin coats of the excellent new colour from SMS, US Dark Gull Grey.

 

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I then masked and painted the black panels using an extremely dark grey, and then picked out the white wiring with a paintbrush.

 

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Nice going mate. Good to Scott getting some FS numbers into his SMS paint range.

 

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Love that wire job. Can you tell me what u used for it? Looks like lead wire

 

Cheers

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