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I found this difficult and frustrating to do also, so I switched to lead wire, and haven't regretted it since. It's much more malleable, but still holds it shape OK, as long as you don't knock it. You can buy it in various lengths and thicknesses from brands like Plusmodel and others.

 

Kev

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100% agreed. Lead wire works great. When picking it up with tweezers however, just be careful not to crush it.

 

If you're in the States, you can pick up a nice variety pack of lead wire from Bass Pro that has served me well for years, and likely will continue to for years:

 

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lead-wire-assortment

 

HTH

 

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Kev,

 

Thanks for he reply.  I have been avoiding lead wire as all I have for a proper glue for wiring is CA.  I am tracking CA reacts poorly over time with lead, although I personally have never seen it.  I have lead, copper and silvered copper wire at varying dimensions.  Much of it cut from old wiring harnesses and scavenged from computer stuff.  Some from a hobby store. In order to straighten it I have been laying it on the work area and using a roller to flatten it out.  This has been ok.  I am hoping my brute force techniques will give way to something more technical and accurate.

 

-Frank

Edited by SapperSix
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4 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

100% agreed. Lead wire works great. When picking it up with tweezers however, just be careful not to crush it.

 

If you're in the States, you can pick up a nice variety pack of lead wire from Bass Pro that has served me well for years, and likely will continue to for years:

 

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lead-wire-assortment

 

HTH

 

I dont recall where I had read that and actually got some of that from Bass Pro.  I used it at length on my A-10.  Which was my first ever attempt at wiring.  I am in much, much deeper with my RF-4C build...Man I have started having RF-4C dreams.....

Edited by SapperSix
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OK, to flatten or straighten copper wire, I use a slightly modified version of your technique. Rather than using a roller on it, I use a short metal ruler (6"/15cm), and aggressively roll the flat face back and forth over the wire. This will usually deal with everything but actual kinks.

 

Kev

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I've found the best way that works for me personally on both copper and lead wire is similar to Kev's ruler method:

 

First I straighten out the piece of wire as much as I can, then I take a piece of smooth ceramic 4" or 5" square tile and turn it up side down, & run it over the top of the wire on my self healing mat; working the tile back and forth over the top of the wire, and it will naturally straighten out. You just have to use a lot less pressure when rolling lead wire VS copper.

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I haven't found any issues using routine CA for lead wire.

 

If copper is all you have, it might be possible to heat it with a propane torch and then keep it in the oven on low heat for a period of time in order to anneal it. Refining the crystalline structure generally makes metals more malleable and less brittle. From there using pieces of metal surfaces ( like a tapering handle on a chisel) as formers can help make curves of varying radii.

 

I'm pretty sure this is why annealing PE helps bend and curve it.

 

Matty

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I have found the Lead Wire for weighting Fly Fishing Lures works very well and the different diameters come in very handy. I purchase mine from Brass Pro Shops though I'm sure it is available from other Fishing Equip. stores. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lead-wire-assortment

 

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Barry

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For bending the wire into uniform curves, angles etc., look into wire mandrels used in jewelry making.

https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Right-Mandrel-Looping-Shapes/dp/B003E7HKA4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1546734344&sr=8-3&keywords=jewelry+wire+mandrel

 

https://www.amazon.com/WIRE-WRAPPING-MANDREL-WORKING-JEWELRY/dp/B00TN510DO/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1546734344&sr=8-16&keywords=jewelry+wire+mandrel

 

For very small bends, look to tooth picks, needles etc.   You can also look to the sprues in your kit box.  Learn how to heat and stretch sprue, and you can make what ever diameter mandrel you need.   Stretched sprue itself can be reheated and bent to shape.  Once cooled, it will hold that shape.  I am sure there are videos on YouTube on how to do this.

 

 

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