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patricksparks

1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

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Very nice but not quite the section I was talking about. Effectively the Harrier has 2 concentric bell-mouths: the one you have remade (on to which the auxiliary doors open) and the main one forward of it. The forward one is complex in that the outboard sides of it are supported by the webs between the AI doors. However, it joins the cockpit sides (the inboard part of the intake) at the top and bottom of the opening and where it does so, the edge angles aft towards the fan. Most models just have an edge that is perpendicular to the aircraft centre line, leaving a very odd wedge shaped gap where the tapering cockpit meets it. Vitaliy did an outstanding job on his 1:48 GR9 which I think is linked above somewhere. If you only deal with one edge, do the bottom one as this is the one that shows when you look down the intake.

 

Let me know if all the words make no sense. I really should do a sketch at some point...

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My friend Bill Schwarz asked me about the gaping hole behind the nose gear, I hadn't looked at that problem area at that point, so I looked at it yesterday and this morning and figured out a few things to make it better. The realationship between the nose gear and the forward gear doors needs to be closed up, I don't have drawings to determine which is incorrect, the length or location of the forward gear doors or the location of the nose gear itself or both ???

I was planning on pinning the nose gear in for painting purposes so I built a styrene recepticle  and built up the back wall to move the gear forward  an 1/8 of an inch so I wounldn't have to lengthen the gear doors. I took the kit part #90, the door for behind the nose gear which is totally incorrect and simply used it as a filler, I knotched it to go around the gear strut after looking at a bunch of photos. I'll have to make the little tiny gear door that is mounted to the back of the strut.

 

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Wow, excellent problem solving!   Moving the gear forward, VS having to modify the gear door (s) is a stroke of genius, and in the long run the extra move forward will likely never be even noticed.

 

Question for you though............

 

Maybe I'm seeing things, or maybe you have a plan I'm not aware of or maybe its just temporary, but doesn't the Harrier nose gear fork sweep back and not forward?

 

Harrier_GR7_ZD409_7053.jpg

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1 hour ago, Out2gtcha said:

Wow, excellent problem solving!   Moving the gear forward, VS having to modify the gear door (s) is a stroke of genius, and in the long run the extra move forward will likely never be even noticed.

 

Question for you though............

 

Maybe I'm seeing things, or maybe you have a plan I'm not aware of or maybe its just temporary, but doesn't the Harrier nose gear fork sweep back and not forward?

 

Harrier_GR7_ZD409_7053.jpg

I'm not sure if this is what your reffering to, the nose strut always appears to be backwards when the yoke is not on it.

 

U4D5kQq.jpgTAuIUfV.jpg

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4 minutes ago, patricksparks said:

I'm not sure if this is what your reffering to, the nose strut always appears to be backwards when the yoke is not on it.

 

 

Ah!  I knew it was probably something I was missing!  I should have noticed that that was NOT the nose wheel yoke, but the strut  to attach the yoke. Much smaller than the actual nose wheel fork.     Model on! 

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Finally bit the bullet and worked on the part I didn't want to do, I still have to make the landing lights for it but I managed to slug it out with the nylon kit gear, I should have just made a new one...But I'm happy with the result so far( and before anyone asks,the "TOW" markings are supposed to be upside down).

 

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