patricksparks Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Accidentally deleted the post, here are some updates, the re-built cockpit tub progress and instrument panel, the kit front wheel well mods to move the cockpit back 3/8", Harold's/AMS resin seat and I now have the wing glued up with the added "CRANK" in the leading edge from the vertical strake in the leading edge to the tip while maintaing a totally flat trailing edge. The image of the cockpit with the ruler over it shows the amount the cockpit has to shift, the 3" mark on the ruler is where the cockpit used to be, now it is 3/8" farther back the seat rails should end up basically even withe the engine intakes. The photo with the black piece of plastic over the back of the cockpit is the piece I was going to have to use to fill the gap between the rear bulkhead and the opening in the top of the fuselage, that's when I knew something was really wrong, looking at photos of the real plane showed that the seat rails had to move back. A-10LOADER, Francis, Chris Wimmer and 5 others 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otis252 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Excellent work! That IP looks incredible. How did you fix that wing "kink", it looks perfect. Thanks. Chuck patricksparks and Harold 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 6 hours ago, otis252 said: Excellent work! That IP looks incredible. How did you fix that wing "kink", it looks perfect. Thanks. Chuck I took a razor saw and cut vertically right up against the leading edge strake on both the top and bottom wings, I cut on the outboard side, I used a small butane torch and heated the inside of the wing just where the cut is and about an inch and half towards the back of the wing, NOT ALOT OF HEAT !! O the lower wing I did the same but I removed a tiny wedge of material in the saw cut to allow the lower wing to flex up. I used 1/8' X 1/4" brass flat rod, layed it down flat not on edge(this way it will fit closer to the inside of the leading edge so that the wing halves will still close up, bent it to the approximate angle(good as my eye could get) crazy glued it in place withe lots of clamps and made sure I didn't look at it for at least a day. I also used the same brass back for the trailing edge this time it was stood up in order to be more ridged and keep trailing continuesly straight as per the real thing. Unfortunatelf I didn't photograph the rear piece of brass, but I can tell you that it is back against the fronts of the rear bosses. Menelaos, Martinnfb, Greg W and 6 others 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Moving along.. I sent my original instrument panel to Harold/AMS RESIN, where made a mold of it, came out awesome, all the switches, knobs and bits cast beautifully. Just received the resin copy. THANK YOU HAROLD !!!! LSP_Kevin, jgrease, sandokan and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Working on getting all the cockpit components done, I have to start detailing them, it has taken about a week to figure out all the size changes an moving things around to get it more accurate. I had to take the kit instrument panel shroud and jack it up 3/16" to make it appear more where it should be, I noticed it while looking at photos of the real thing and you can see that the HUD/gunsight display needs to be closer to the top of the windscreen and raising the shroud meant the cockpit floor had to come up, I had to put .100 styrene pads under it and cut the molded kit ribs off that are under the side walls the the shroud sits on to allow the tub to raise. I have broken the components down so that they can be tooled for casting, once I have completed them I will be sending off to Harold at AMS Resin for replicating. sandokan, Uncarina, Iain and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Looks great so far! Don't forget about the flat face on the port side of the coaming, something else that Hobbyboss missed. And the flaired lower edges to fit around the instrument panel. Matt patricksparks and Harold 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 (edited) Made the frame for the forward windscreen, have mounted to a plate for casting a mold, the ruff strip across the bottom of the part is to hold the casting together when being removed from the mold so that it won't break, it will be cut during installation. The IP shroud is almost done, had to screw around with this quite a bit but it finally fits decently. Edited December 21, 2018 by patricksparks Harold, Greg W, sandokan and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 very nice work! patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Great work with adding the flared lower portion of the coaming! Looks much better that way. Only thing I'd add is that flat plane on both sides. It's diamond shaped, between that raised strap and the black edge at the aft end. Seems to be the detail that every manufacturer misses when they do Harrier cockpits. Matt patricksparks and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel111 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Very nice work on the cockpit.... and really masterful of you to get that wink leading edge kink right! Marcel Harold, scvrobeson and patricksparks 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I culled this from the net..watermarked, If I am violating copyrights let me know. I was tinkering with the cowling about the same time as Patrick, but then he posted his masterwork, so, I see no need to bother with it myself. As you can see, it is rather crude at this point... I was going to sand down the top plate I added paper thin and then add the bulged section on top. I am so glad Patrick has tackled this monster... Out2gtcha, Iain, scvrobeson and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 It almost looks like the Hobbyboss version is too short? The strengthening strap should be a bit farther forward, so that flat plane can fit between it and the aft edge. Honestly, that wouldn't surprise me. I haven't found a single Harrier instrument coaming yet that's accurate, in any kit. The overly thick windscreens mean a lot of allowances need to be made. But it's such an important part that needs to look right. Matt patricksparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 2 hours ago, scvrobeson said: It almost looks like the Hobbyboss version is too short? The strengthening strap should be a bit farther forward, so that flat plane can fit between it and the aft edge. Honestly, that wouldn't surprise me. I haven't found a single Harrier instrument coaming yet that's accurate, in any kit. The overly thick windscreens mean a lot of allowances need to be made. But it's such an important part that needs to look right. The whole thing is out of proportion... scvrobeson, Out2gtcha, patricksparks and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 2 hours ago, scvrobeson said: It almost looks like the Hobbyboss version is too short? The strengthening strap should be a bit farther forward, so that flat plane can fit between it and the aft edge. Honestly, that wouldn't surprise me. I haven't found a single Harrier instrument coaming yet that's accurate, in any kit. The overly thick windscreens mean a lot of allowances need to be made. But it's such an important part that needs to look right. Matt It is too short, I have moved the entire cockpit tub back 3/8"(9 MM) and lengthened the shroud accordingly. I should probably look at moving the strap, but I've been doing so many other adjustments everywhere else in the cockpit that I haven't stopped to re-address it. scvrobeson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, patricksparks said: It is too short, I have moved the entire cockpit tub back 3/8"(9 MM) and lengthened the shroud accordingly. I should probably look at moving the strap, but I've been doing so many other adjustments everywhere else in the cockpit that I haven't stopped to re-address it. Once you do one thing to correct an issue, you end up with a domino effect. Edited December 23, 2018 by Harold patricksparks and scvrobeson 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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