Out2gtcha Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Great work! Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Thanks for the comments gents. Onto the tail. In my opinion, I felt that it appeared a little too short and that the rudder angled too far forward. Here it is as presented in the kit. i sanded two flat areas on top of the rudder I grafted on two scraps of resin to give me something to work with. I then glued on a shim to the trailing edge of the rudder using plastic card to slightly modify the angle of the trailing edge and blended the top of the rudder into the taller shape. The bottom of the tail under the rudder of the real aircraft blends into the fuselage with a nice curved fairing. A small detail missed by Iconicair, but easy enough to add. Also notice that I have modified the size of the rudder trim tab, it is much thinner on the real thing. Due to the sanding and blending required, the old trim tab actuator needed to go and I replaced it with a new one carved from a scrap of resin. Fitted to the fuselage and primed. I have also added a very thin strip of plastic card to the trailing edge of the rudder from the trim tab and above present on pics of the real aircraft. The same type of strip is also on the outer edges of the elevators these will be added later. Starting to come together. This has to be my favourite build of the year. Fvdm, KiwiZac, Out2gtcha and 16 others 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durangokid Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 You really come up with some great ideas on solving big problems with your builds. Thanks for sharing those, it's really informative. Bryan Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trak-Tor Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Fantastic so far! Juraj Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Kewl, it certainly is unique Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Looking seriously good, quirky but very cool!! Regards.Andy Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Thank you very much guys. It it was time to sort out the exhaust. Whilst I didn’t end up putting I the engine, I felt that I needed to do something about the tailpipe and turbine. There is just a gaping hole there, and although it will be rarely picked up and seen, at least I know it is there and it the solution that I came up with is more than acceptable. Here is the tail end of the model. Some damage is evident, as the bottom lip of the exhaust is cracked and the tail light has been broken off. Not sure when this happened. I cut off the tailpipe and squared it up with a file The closest O.D with the thinnest wall material I could find was this brass tube. I measured the O.D of the tailpipe at 15.04mm, so it was close enough. I cut the pipe at an angle. This was done using the MK1 eyeball as a guide. I then used some tape to ensure that the next cut was going to be square and cut off the end of the pipe to give me the angled piece required. The small end piece was superglued to a longer piece and test fitted. Whilst I was working on this part of the model, I tidied up the outer ring of the exhaust pipe by giving it an undercut as per the real thing by using the tip of a no.11 blade to carve it. I had kept the mould that I had of a Revell Hunter turbine when I made some exhausts for the HK Meteor so I pulled it out of storage and poured some resin. It is an almost perfect fit to the brass tube. Painted and heavily dry brushed so that the detail is visible. Completed and ready to go inside the fuselage. Glued in place and primed. I replaced the rear light fairing with a scrap of resin. The undercut of the outer ring as mentioned earlier has made a lot of difference to the finished product. Trak-Tor, sandokan, Alain Gadbois and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trak-Tor Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Nice one! Juraj Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Cool solution, and a good way to keep that angled part correctly aligned with the airframe. Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Very neat work, looks great. Cheers Dennis Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 The wing join makes the cannon fairings a bit misaligned as the join passes straight through them. I wanted to make sure the barrels lined up and also fix up the area in question at the same time. First up, I drilled out the holes that the barrels fit into and fitted some brass tube. I then used the length of the brass tube to ensure that it was aligned with the longitudinal axis of the the model and glued it in place. I repeated it for the other barrel and did the same on the other wing. These tubes were then cut off with a small amount protruding to match the area where the barrels fair into the wings and the rear of the barrels themselves, I punched out some disks from plastic card that exactly match the diameter of the cannons. These disks were then fitted over the ends of the brass tubes already glued into the wing and then the wing was filled and sanded to match the diameter of the disks. Notice that I have also drilled a section of brass rod into the barrels that will give them plenty of strength and and also slide straight into the tubes glued into the wings. Dry fitted. I can leave these off until the last minute to prevent them from becoming damaged. Trak-Tor, Starfighter, Fvdm and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Brass always works well for me. Excellent solution all around. Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanes Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Quite a nice and clean fix! One question slightly of topic: how happy are you with RP-toolz punch&die? - I'm planning on purchasing one in the near future. Cheers Joachim Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 4 hours ago, Fanes said: Quite a nice and clean fix! One question slightly of topic: how happy are you with RP-toolz punch&die? - I'm planning on purchasing one in the near future. Cheers Joachim Thanks Joachim. I am very happy with the RP tools punch and die set. I have both the small and large sets and use them all the time. A reasonably large investment but I am a firm believer that a quality tool in hand is better than an unbuilt kit in the stash, so I don’t mind diverting funds toward that sort of thing. I am having a fair bit of trouble settling on a particular aircraft to depict. The Attacker had two slightly different versions, being the F.1/F.B.1 and the FB.2 both sort of able to be made from the kit. The kit as presented I believe represents an in between mix of both versions and some thought will be required if you wish it to be an accurate depiction of a certain aircraft. I am certainly open to suggestions and also correction if I have the details wrong. I have a mask cutter, so I am not limited to the kit provided decals for the serial number. The F.1 was equipped with an earlier version of the Nene and had a cleaner fuselage. The kit has 4 vents around the tailcone (see the post regarding my exhaust mod to see what I am talking about) which was a feature of the FB.2 so these will need to be removed. Conversely, the FB.2 whilst featuring the vents also had two small intakes, one on either side of the rear fuselage adjacent to the front of the tail fillet. These are not supplied in the kit so will need to be scratchbuilt if wanting to depict an FB.2. Neither mod would be too hard to give either version but I like to try and get things right. The quandary that I now have myself in is which one to pick? I had a rough idea of the features and scheme that I would like but finding one that has all the boxes ticked has proven difficult. My list so far; F.1 spec, Large J on the tail, red nose, earlier un framed canopy and also the large underbelly fuel tank. Finding a picture that has all of those has so far eluded me. It seems like the best compromise would be to go for the later framed canopy which would give me the rest of the features and all I would have to do is remove the vents around the tailcone. Whilst I try and work out what I want to do (I am going through the same process with my Booemrang build) I can fiddle with some of the smaller details to buy me some time. The kit represents the wingtip nav lights with engraved detail. I cut out the area of the lights and tacked in a piece of clear resin This was easy enough to shape with a coarse sanding stick I refined the final shape by using a finer sanding stick followed by some wet and dry. These lights are easy enough to pop off and I will dip them in clear red and green paint and reattach them once I have finished painting the model. Out2gtcha, Trak-Tor, Whitey and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 Some really great model engineering, Eric! Great work! Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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