Revell Bf 109 G-10 Erla

[Kais]

MG131, what MG131s, I see no upper cowl!

 

[Pastor John]

Nothing to see here - move along!

[Pastor John]

Well I changed the Quickboost guns for the Master MG 131's and they look much better I think! How on earth did I manage to get old ones out and new ones in? You will see..... I also opened up the second hatch below the MW filler hatch common to all Erla built G-6 / G-14 and G-10 machines I believe. I do not know the purpose of this hatch - is it a re-positioned hatch from the one near the tail on machines built by other companies? I see the other hatch is not near the tail on the Revell kit and that is why I ask this. Note also the hatch should be a little lower than where Revell placed it

Edited November 14, 2018 by Pastor John

[Pastor John]

And the reason I could change the weapons..... I decided to design a lower engine plug plus cowl door! Yes that is it - I spent a week designing a lower engine part and door just so i could change the weapons after cutting out the kits lower cowl! No not really - I was always playing with this idea and just decided to go for it. If you want to buy it the set will be £12.50. I sent off to the printers yesterday the small PE frame that includes 2x latches needed plus the control arm for the oil cooler flap but it you already have the latches like on my 'hatches and latches' set and can make the simple control arm your self then the set is available now - email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com as per normal. Note the door was designed using Hasegawa part - lengthened by 1mm to fit the Revell kit, but the cross section at the front of the door does not match the Revell kit as the Revell kits lower Glycol cowl is very wrong and needs sanded into a much rounder shape. 90% of the pipe work is part of the engine plug so just add the pipe work for the oil cooler and hyraulic oil cooler flap arm - the pipework that comes out of the heat shields below the exhausts on both sides and add /extend pipe work at the back of the engine. Add a small shelf to the lip of the amended Glycol cowl and you are done. I recommend the set be used in conjunction with the Barracuda oil cooler housing but the oil cooler housing and the panel line at its base line up with the root of the third exhaust not the end of the second exhaust - the Revell part and the Barracuda part are 1mm too long as they start 1mm too far forward in line with end of second exhaust so take 1mm off the back. Hope that helps but see the internet picture. Eagle edition oil cooler is the right length but too deep to be used on an Erla machine.

Thanks for your interest, J

 

Edited November 15, 2018 by Pastor John

[alaninaustria]

Wow, really nice work John! That is outstanding and really adds some realism!

I like it very much!

Cheers

Alan

[monthebiff]

Really nice John, I like what you are doing with this and your lower engine plug looks very good.

 

Regards. Andy

[dodgem37]

''I decided to design a lower engine plug plus cowl door!

Serious, Dude!  Love that.  Great idea.  Looks like you may need part of a firewall, too.  Yes?

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Pastor John]

Guys I have made a big mistake and my apologies to Revell - they got the lower Gylcol cover correct - it indeed is more angular and therefore the lower cowl door also as this gave the clearance to the oil pipes and needed bulges on the G-10 U4. I need to fill my deleted angular cowl haha but this also means that I need to supply a different lower cowl door for the Erla machine! Fun fun fun. No I am not adding a fire wall - just trow in my pipes and paint inside black!!!!!

 

[Pastor John]

And finally she starts looking like a 109! Very happy with my little PE set for the gear bays!

[Pastor John]

I hope to finish this model sometime in the next few years!!!! Well it seems like that - most of it is my own fault stopping to design stuff but besides that there is just a lot to do before you can prime the thing! I hope the first photo illustrates some of the details I wanted to add before spraying. The little upper cowl lips that close tight against the exhaust shields are missing from both the Erla G-10 and Revell G-6 kits so added some square rod followed by filler. There is the poor canopy sill fit from using the Aires cockpit set issue plus the kits back plate does not fit in flush as it should but rather had a 0.5mm step in it which helps canopy fit but is wrong and I had to pop it back out carefully and remove the little internal tabs that stop it falling into the model but at the same time stop it being where it should. Then there are the terminals to ailerons and landing flaps that do not have the V shaped seams which you can see if everything deployed. I was also unlucky that my kit had badly formed radiator flaps and trim tabs - the tabs could be replaced but I needed a PE set to replace the flaps, my other boxing is perfect so I was just unlucky. Finally there are all the locating recesses in the inside of the canopy which I should have done before painting but simply did not see, so all done now bar a few details to the inside of my AIMS lower radiator cowl and I am ready to prime in 10 years time. I almost forgot - I replaced the flat DF loop base with the correct domed one from a Trumpeter kit - I will cross the bridge of it then being missing for that kit when I come to it haha

[Pastor John]

Trumpeter DF loop base

[alaninaustria]

Coming along nicely mate!

Cheers

Alan

[Troy Molitor]

I certainly agree with Jennings and Alan.   Well done John.   

[Out2gtcha]

20 hours ago, Pastor John said:

 

 

 

Wow, that AIMS lower radiator/engine section looks excellent!   Definitely something you dont see on every 109 build. 

[MikeMaben]

 

    Cool !!