Rick K Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 Ocean Grey going down. I use black base marbling technique. It works for me. Considered using putty worms for Ocean Grey/Dark Green demarcation. I'm going in freehand. MRP115 Ocean Grey. 2 sessions needed as fatigue on trigger finger set in. Blending LSP_Kevin, Greg W, scvrobeson and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 MRP110 Dark Green. Hard to show up on the black base. It really is marbled! Look close. Biggles87, Cheetah11, Alain Gadbois and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 (edited) Nice nice nice!!! When you said Roy’s replacement nose was “98% plug and play” I presume you were referring to the ‘plug’ part more than the ‘play’?! That update is not for beginners or for the feint hearted. Not a fan at all of the plug being right on the nose ring and cowl. Still, you’ve made it all look a breeze, and the results are stunning. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next instalments! Edited August 13, 2019 by nmayhew Out2gtcha and Rick K 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 Great work Rick! That is really turning out the business for sure. Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 7 hours ago, nmayhew said: Nice nice nice!!! When you said Roy’s replacement nose was “98% plug and play” I presume you were referring to the ‘plug’ part more than the ‘play’?! That update is not for beginners or for the feint hearted. Not a fan at all of the plug being right on the nose ring and cowl. Still, you’ve made it all look a breeze, and the results are stunning. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next instalments! Cheers Nick. More plug than play indeed. Roy's nose is direct replacement. A little putty and some basic scribing/riveting was needed to make it work. Certainly easier that the kit assembly nightmare issues. This was binned to SOD several time as the kit shortcomings just killed my MoJo. 6 hours ago, Out2gtcha said: Great work Rick! That is really turning out the business for sure. Thanks Brian. nmayhew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 Mask off. Happy to report no lifting or bleeding. mozart, Greg W, Out2gtcha and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Excellent! If mine turns out anything like that I will be more than pleased. John Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fvdm Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 You did a great paintjob Rick. It looks fantastic. Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misha71 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 great work. painting looks very nice Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 That looks very nice! Your roundels look great! Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 (edited) This build will represent the mount of RNZAF ace (20+ kills) Wing Commander Evan Mackie late May 1945. I chose this scheme for several reasons. I have a few Kiwi modeling friends. The scheme is absent of DDay stripes, small fuselage codes and absence of any ordnance will show the beautiful lines of the Tempest. Masking serial number and fuselage codes. Using Maketar masks and MRP NATO black the serial numbers are added. It's always special when I spot a seam well into the final finishing stages. Fuselage codes Mackie's initials are MRP Sky. On Deck - Gloss, stencil decals more gloss and weathering. Edited August 14, 2019 by Rick K MikeC, Greg W, Fanes and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUROK Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 Nice work! Love your idea to use the pipe insulation foam as a work cradle Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 18, 2019 Author Share Posted August 18, 2019 (edited) National markings, sn and codes painted. Time to apply gloss. I've tried many gloss varnishes and I'm frequently trying others. Thing is I always keep coming back to Tamiya x22 gloss. I mix 1:1 ratio with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner (MLT). The results are always consistent. I also get to use my new Creos Procon Boy PS290 .5mm airbrush with fan tip. This is my new full coverage primer and varnish weapon. Love the nice wide spray pattern and great coverage. Was not sure about using a trigger airbrush. For full coverage this is the bees knees. Gloss applied for stencil decal work. Look forward to cut and place over 60 of these little fellas. While the gloss cures I'll work on other parts and bits. Edited August 18, 2019 by Rick K LSP_Kevin, MikeC, Greg W and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 18, 2019 Author Share Posted August 18, 2019 (edited) While the gloss cures I'll work on the Prop. Roy 's Prop Assembly Jig is brilliant on many levels. The measure for 4' yellow tip is accurate. To assist in masking the tip I extended the tip color break just beyond the blade outline. I primed each blade with Gunze 1500 Black then applied a shot of light grey (to decrease yellow paint build up) on the tip area followed by yellow. After paint cure I placed each prop on the jig and carefully placed tape at the 4" mark. Each blade gets a coat of MRP77 NATO Black. Mask removed...all good. Interior of back plate gets a shot of Alclad116 Semi-Matt aluminum. For me I wanted just a peek of unpainted metal at root of prop blade. Is it accurate? Not sure. I'll get a nice color break from the prop hub and blade. Using 15 minute epoxy i set the blade in position and carefully adjust according to the jig. I let complete cure before I move on to next blade. The prop spinner got painted with MRP255 Black Night Camouflage. This gives a nice contrast between the prop spinner and blades. After near complete epoxy cure I slip on the prop spinner to double check alignment. All four blades mounted and cured the prop hub is carefully glued in place. The prop spinner easily fits on the back plate after all blades glued. Test fit of complete prop assembly. You can see the contrast black between spinner and blades. Pardon the dust. Look at prop root and you can see the aluminum color inside of back plate. Edited August 18, 2019 by Rick K Biggles87, LSP_Kevin, MikeMaben and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lothar Posted August 18, 2019 Share Posted August 18, 2019 This is just getting better with every post !!! Lothar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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