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Rick K

Special Hobby Tempest V

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Ocean Grey going down.  I use black base marbling technique.  It works for me.   Considered using putty worms for Ocean Grey/Dark Green demarcation.  I'm going in freehand.

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MRP115 Ocean Grey.   

 

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2 sessions needed as fatigue on trigger finger set in.

OceanGrey.01.jpg

 

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Blending

 

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Posted (edited)

Nice nice nice!!!

 

When you said Roy’s replacement nose was “98% plug and play” I presume you were referring to the ‘plug’ part more than the ‘play’?!

 

That update is not for beginners or for the feint hearted. Not a fan at all of the plug being right on the nose ring and cowl.

 

Still, you’ve made it all look a breeze, and the results are stunning.

 

Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next instalments!

Edited by nmayhew

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7 hours ago, nmayhew said:

Nice nice nice!!!

 

When you said Roy’s replacement nose was “98% plug and play” I presume you were referring to the ‘plug’ part more than the ‘play’?!

 

That update is not for beginners or for the feint hearted. Not a fan at all of the plug being right on the nose ring and cowl.

 

Still, you’ve made it all look a breeze, and the results are stunning.

 

Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next instalments!

Cheers Nick.

 

More plug than play indeed.  :)   Roy's nose is direct replacement.  A little putty and some basic scribing/riveting was needed to make it work.

 

Certainly easier that the kit assembly nightmare issues.  This was binned to SOD several time as the kit shortcomings just killed my MoJo.

6 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

Great work Rick! That is really turning out the business for sure

Thanks Brian.

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Posted (edited)

This build will represent the mount of RNZAF ace (20+ kills) Wing Commander Evan Mackie late May 1945.  I chose this scheme for several reasons.  I have a few Kiwi modeling friends.  The scheme is absent of DDay stripes, small fuselage codes and absence of any ordnance will show the beautiful lines of the Tempest.

 

Evan%20Mackie.jpg

 

Masking serial number and fuselage codes.  Using Maketar masks and MRP NATO black the serial numbers are added.

 

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It's always special when I spot a seam well into the final finishing stages.

 

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Fuselage codes Mackie's initials are MRP Sky.

 

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EDM%20Mask.05.jpg

 

On Deck - Gloss, stencil decals more gloss and weathering.

 

 

Edited by Rick K

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Posted (edited)

National markings, sn and codes painted.  Time to apply gloss.

 

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I've tried many gloss varnishes and I'm frequently trying others.  Thing is I always keep coming back to Tamiya x22 gloss.  I mix 1:1 ratio with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner (MLT).  The results are always consistent.

 

I also get to use my new Creos Procon Boy PS290 .5mm airbrush with fan tip.  This is my new full coverage primer and varnish weapon.  Love the nice wide spray pattern and great coverage.  Was not sure about using a trigger airbrush.   For full coverage this is the bees knees.

 

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Gloss applied for stencil decal work.  Look forward to cut and place over 60 of these little fellas.  :BANGHEAD2:

 

Gloss.01.jpg

While the gloss cures I'll work on other parts and bits.

 

 

Edited by Rick K

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Posted (edited)

While the gloss cures I'll work on the Prop.

Prop.07.jpg

Roy 's Prop Assembly Jig is brilliant on many levels.  The measure for 4' yellow tip is accurate.  To assist in masking the tip I extended the tip color break just beyond the blade outline.

 

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I primed each blade with Gunze 1500 Black then applied a shot of light grey (to decrease yellow paint build up) on the tip area followed by yellow. 

 

 

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After paint cure I placed each prop on the jig and carefully placed tape at the 4" mark.

 

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Each blade gets a coat of MRP77 NATO Black.

 

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Mask removed...all good.

 

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Interior of back plate gets a shot of Alclad116 Semi-Matt aluminum.  For me I wanted just a peek of unpainted metal at root of prop blade.  Is it accurate?  Not sure.  I'll get a nice color break from the prop hub and blade. 

 

Using 15 minute epoxy i set the blade in position and carefully adjust according to the jig.  I let complete cure before I move on to next blade.

 

The prop spinner got painted with MRP255 Black Night Camouflage.  This gives a nice contrast between the prop spinner and blades.

 

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After near complete epoxy cure I slip on the prop spinner to double check alignment.

 

Prop.01.jpg

All four blades mounted and cured the prop hub is carefully glued in place.  The prop spinner easily fits on the back plate after all blades glued.

 

Prop.09.jpg

Test fit of complete prop assembly.  You can see the contrast black between spinner and blades. 

 

Pardon the dust.

 

Prop.08.jpg

Look at prop root and you can see the aluminum color inside of back plate.

 

 

 

Edited by Rick K

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