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super glue tip clogging


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I use super glue bought locally and am always having trouble with the glue drying in the tip and causing me several minutes to either pick the clog out with an exacto knife or use a drill bit to hand drill it clear. 

 

Is there some kind of way to keep the tips clear and keep the glue from drying in it??  What do you guys do to prevent this from happening???

 

Ron

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Go get a hypodermic needle, cut the tip off so that it is no longer sharp. The plastic end on the needle fits nice and tight onto the end of the Zap CA bottle.

When the needle gets blocked with glue simply take a lighter and heat the tip, the glue will burn out and leave a nice fresh fine hole to apply the glue with.

As an added benefit as the needle blocks it keeps the glue fresh!

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The key is to clear the nozzle before recapping otherwise capillary action will cause it to creep back up to the top and sometimes into the cap gluing it on, Mark's tip above usually works, I also give the bottle a sharp rap on the table top to force the glue back down into the bottle before recapping. 

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7 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

To have the glue go back down squeeze the short sides.  Works for me.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

I already do this. It helps a bunch, but eventually the tip clogs up with superglue and I still have to drill it out. The hypo needle approach sound interesting, but I wonder how you can burn off the metal tip without melting the plastic tip since the metal tubing conducts heat very nicely!

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5 hours ago, modelingbob said:

The hypo needle approach sound interesting, but I wonder how you can burn off the metal tip without melting the plastic tip since the metal tubing conducts heat very nicely!

 

The wall thickness for the needle is very thin so the heat does not travel very far at all, less than 1/2 it's length.

The only downside to this trick is that when you go to purchase your needles you get some funny looks.

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I use replaceable applicator tips like the kind available from Bob Smith CAs at a lot of hobby retailers. They don;t clog very easily, but when they do, I just snip the end off and keep going. 

 

I use the 301s mostly, but I keep some 302s around for very fine stuff, but they clog more easily. http://bsi-inc.com/hobby/access.html

Edited by BiggTim
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On 9/4/2018 at 11:18 AM, modelingbob said:

I already do this. It helps a bunch, but eventually the tip clogs up with superglue and I still have to drill it out. The hypo needle approach sound interesting, but I wonder how you can burn off the metal tip without melting the plastic tip since the metal tubing conducts heat very nicely!

 

Grip the needle with an alligator clip between the heated end of the metal tube and the plastic.

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To slow down the polymerisation of CA (not block it completely, mind you), you can also store your tubes/bottles in an airtight box, in which you have also added some of these silica gel sachets aimed at trapping moisture, and that you find in almost any packaged goods imported from PRC  ...

And then, even better, store the box in a dry, cool place, like your fridge (plus it gives you an opportunity to grab a beer each time you want to glue something ;) )

Why ? because CA setting is usually triggered by moisture in the ambient air (and therefore blowing on an assembly which uses CA is not a completely stupid idea ... )

 

Hubert

 

BTW, the airtight box will also show that CA fumes are getting out of seemingly tightly closed bottles, and whiten the inside of the box over time ...

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On 9/4/2018 at 2:06 AM, Fooesboy said:

Go get a hypodermic needle, cut the tip off so that it is no longer sharp. The plastic end on the needle fits nice and tight onto the end of the Zap CA bottle.

When the needle gets blocked with glue simply take a lighter and heat the tip, the glue will burn out and leave a nice fresh fine hole to apply the glue with.

As an added benefit as the needle blocks it keeps the glue fresh!

You can buy hyperdurmic tubing any size you want on ebay .so no need for the needles

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