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Building Japanese


Dandiego

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45 minutes ago, Dandiego said:

It is not a Sharpie. I use a water based  marker that is made to use on vellum. I will get the exact type and post info when I get home tonight.

 

 

Good stuff Dan. That makes it much more plausible to work with nearly all top coats.

Please do let us know when you get the info.

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bGAx5mE.jpg?1

 

OK so here is the marker that I use. I think I bought  it at Michaels  craft store. I have only used this marker  with Model Master enamels. Your mileage may vary.

 

And a few pictures of the big beastie  masked up. I have already  sprayed the Dark Ghost Grey. I then apply these paper masks and will spray the Light Ghost Grey in very thin coats until I have the desired coverage  of the preshading.

aU0qtEy.jpg?1

 

Qvvddua.jpg?1

 

j4TW7au.jpg?1

 

I think this answers the question  " what do you do with old kit instruction booklets".

 

Dan

Edited by Dandiego
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8 hours ago, Dandiego said:

...

 

OK so here is the marker that I use. I think I bought  it at Michaels  craft store. I have only used this marker  with Model Master enamels. Your mileage may vary.

 

And a few pictures of the big beastie  masked up. I have already  sprayed the Dark Ghost Grey. I then apply these paper masks and will spray the Light Ghost Grey in very thin coats until I have the desired coverage  of the preshading.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think this answers the question  " what do you do with old kit instruction booklets".

 

Dan

 

It also answers THE other big question : « what do you need instructions for ? » :)

 

Neat work :goodjob:

 

Hubert

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Got a little time to start painting the camo.

 

To say the least this paint scheme is intense. Besides the application of the colors much masking is needed to reproduce the look of the jet. Many panels needed to have their edges masked off and hundreds of stencils need to have the grey masked off so that it shows through and forms a grey area that surrounds each stencil.

 

I have gone a little nuts trying to figure out the best way to do this.  Anyway I have begun to add some of the simpler white areas that do not have much stenciling. And I got that mucked up right off the bat. I forgot to mask off some stencils on the elevators. Oh well I will just have to mask off and spray these areas grey.

 

sqINvgb.jpg

 

mpCcV2C.jpg

 

SfjDEse.jpg

 

I believe that I will mask off the main camo colors and then slowly, carefully mask off individual panels and stencils.

 

Should take just short of forever.

 

Dan

 

 

Edited by Dandiego
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OK after some serious  pondering and a hard  look at the Twobobs decals  I have decided  that I will not need to mask for each stencil. Most of the decals  already have  a grey surround so they can be applied  directly to the camouflage colors.

 

I don't like the Two bobs No Step decals. They are  very  non-distinct, can't  really tell what they are and they seem a little  small to me. However the No Step decals that come with the kit are in English  and that just won't  do. So, with the tip of a new blade I will be cutting  out the English   lettering. This will be tedious but will hopefully give me the look that I  am  going for.

 

This will  speed  up the entire  build. Just a few more stencil  masks instead  of hundreds.

 

Dan

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On 8/28/2018 at 9:01 PM, Dandiego said:

A little progress....

 

I have put some dark Ghost Grey on the upper fuselage.  I have preshaded the panel lines with a marker!!  I know that some consider this as a bad move but it works for me. I was able to apply the shading over the entire airframe in only 20 minutes. The marker seems to soak in to the flat paint and does not present any problems on the color coats to follow. Anyway here are the photos.

 

LPLAjW4.jpg

 

Hs7NLX4.jpg

 

OUCx6ja.jpg

 

Go ahead....Fire away.

 

Dan

I use to do my pre shading this way 

This is a good way to find what works for you, one of the issues I had was the black would soak through the paint months after I painted it.

Just remember got to do what you like 

Edited by Madelf75
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1 hour ago, Madelf75 said:

one of the issues I had was the black would soak through the paint months after I painted it.

 

 

 

Dan is actually using a marker for Vellum without the same permanent type bleeding issues as say a Sharpie has. 

 

On 8/29/2018 at 9:46 PM, Dandiego said:

bGAx5mE.jpg?1

 

 

 

Saves a lot of headache later on! 

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Hello Madelf75, everyone  has their little cheats for building models and this is one that I have used before. I have   built other models using this technique  and have had no bleed through  after 3 years.

 

I did say  that I use only Model Master paints and maybe that is the secret, who knows. Anyway  this is a really fast  way  to do pre-shading and I thought I would share it with the group.

 

Dan  

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11 hours ago, Dandiego said:

Hello Madelf75, everyone  has their little cheats for building models and this is one that I have used before. I have   built other models using this technique  and have had no bleed through  after 3 years.

 

I did say  that I use only Model Master paints and maybe that is the secret, who knows. Anyway  this is a really fast  way  to do pre-shading and I thought I would share it with the group.

 

Dan  

Cool i am sure when it is done it will look really good

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On ‎9‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 8:42 PM, Dandiego said:

OK after some serious  pondering and a hard  look at the Twobobs decals  I have decided  that I will not need to mask for each stencil. Most of the decals  already have  a grey surround so they can be applied  directly to the camouflage colors.

 

I don't like the Two bobs No Step decals. They are  very  non-distinct, can't  really tell what they are and they seem a little  small to me. However the No Step decals that come with the kit are in English  and that just won't  do. So, with the tip of a new blade I will be cutting  out the English   lettering. This will be tedious but will hopefully give me the look that I  am  going for.

 

This will  speed  up the entire  build. Just a few more stencil  masks instead  of hundreds.

 

Dan

 

Yeah, the Two Bobs stencils are poorly done. Compared to newer sheets they are lacking. If they bother you that much, you could try and get a sheet from the Tamiya F-15J, the stencils are better, though some are a little squiggly. They don't have the grey background, so you would have to mask for that. Small improvement, probably not worth the extra work...was the orange an out of bottle color?

 

Don

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