Dark Blue Killer - Tamiya F4U-1D Corsair

[John1]

Got a little paint down.  Slowly I am making some progress.  

 

I'm trying to replicate the worn area on the wingroot by using the hairspray technique.   Not quite there yet, this is still a work in progress. 

 

 

 

 

Really like the way the Colourcoat paint airbrushes.   That's it for now, thanks for looking. 

 

[JayW]

Very  realistic!

[Hawkwrench]

Coming along quite nicely!

 

Tim

[John1]

Thanks very much guys! 

 

Getting some additional stuff done.    Mounted the inboard flaps.   Like the outboards, they pretty much just click into place.   Barely need any glue.   I really like the way the Corsair looks with the flaps dropped.   

 

After that, I moved onto the cockpit.  I installed the Mk. 8 gunsight and the pilot's armored glass.   Unlike the AF in 1945, the Navy/Marines were still using fixed reticle gunsights.  The AF by this time had pretty much reequipped most of their fighters with the "acemaker" K-14 gunsight.  This gunsight was gyro-stabilized and as a result, you could engage a target from a side angle and the sight would tell you how much lead to use.  Only thing I can figure was that they thought the gyro sight might be too fragile to withstand the pounding of repeated carrier landings.  Another bit of meaningless trivia - unlike most sights that had a small bit of glass that reflected the aiming "pipper", the Corsair's sight reflected the pipper directly onto the armored glass. 

 

Flaps are down, armored glass and gunsight are installed.   

 

Once the upper wings are installed, I'll add the missing hydraulic and electrical lines. 

 

Next up is the windscreen.   Tamiya suggests that you add the masks and then spray the outside black first, then adding the final Gloss Sea Blue over it.   I never liked this approach, the canopy interior still looks like clear plastic.  I ended up somewhat roughly handpainting the interior frames (minus the front frames that won't be very visible when the windscreen is installed) with Testor's Interior Black.   This is an acrylic so if I screw things up, I can quickly remove it without damaging the clear part.  Doesn't have to be perfect, once the exterior paint is applied, any small gaps won't be noticeable.  

 

Couple of comments - if you recall, back when I was doing the cockpit, I noted that Tamiya neglected to have you install the rocket control box that was a fixture on the -1D.   I didn't mention it but I was also disappointed that Tamiya didn't include the flap position indicator on the left side of the cockpit.  This was a prominent feature on all Corsairs.   I spoke too soon.  Tamiya has you installing both parts onto the windscreen interior.  Amazing attention to detail.  

 

One thing they did miss - when the USN developed the rocket equipped -1D, apparently they decided it would impact production if they had to install the rocket firing button on the pilot's control stick (like every other aircraft had).   Instead, to keep things simple (and add to the ergonomic nightmare of this cockpit), the simply installed a crude handgrip on the left side of the cockpit with the rocket firing button included.   Typical Navy solution, never mind that it mostly blocked the view of the flap position indicator.   Here's a shot from Dana Bell's wonderful book that illustrates what I'm talking about.

 

 

I made the firing grip out of a carved section of large diameter styrene rod. Added the firing button and attempted to replicate the instruction placard on it's front (pretty crappy but my excuse is that the details were worn away by the pilot's hand due to heavy use).   I also added the Barracuda decals to the flap position indicator and the aforementioned rocket control box on the right hand side.   

 

Here are some pics of everything.  Note -all the glass is just test fitted in place.  All the gaps, drooping armor glass,, etc will go away when I'm done.  I'll also add some wiring to the rocket control box and firing grip once they are permanently in place. 

 

 

 

 

In looking at these pics, I've come to the conclusion that the red firing button is too large.   I'll have this resolved by the next update.   One other horrible miss - the kit's flap indicator shows the flaps in the RAISED position, while on my model, they are actually in the down position!  I hang my head in shame over this major miss.   

 

That's it for now.  Thanks for looking. 

Edited November 12, 2018 by John1

[John1]

Got the canopy and windshield prep'd, masked and installed.  The windshield took a bit of time to get to fit properly.   I suggest putting some pressure on it, glue one side (I used Tamiya liquid cement) and once that sets up, do the other side.  All the while keeping pressure on it.   Tamiya provides masks for the these parts.   Not the precut type, I used a new x-acto blade and it took approx 15 minutes to cut them out and install them.  They seemed to be a bit on the small side, I cut a few extra strips to fill the voids.  No biggie.

 

After that, I completed my painting.  A few comments on the paintwork.  Originally, Vought had a really nice (and probably very effective three-color camo scheme for the earlier A model Corsair:    

 

Pretty nice, right?   Only issue was at some point, the Navy/Marines determined that this took a good number of man-hours to apply at the factory.  Instead of just eliminating all paint like the Army Air Corp did (not really an option on aircraft exposed to salt water), they simply opted to spray the entire aircraft overall Gloss Sea Blue.    I prefer the earlier three color scheme but have to admit that the GSB scheme has grown on me.  Just makes the Corsair look more like the industrial strength killer it was meant to be.

 

As mentioned, I used Colorcoat paints.  I read up on this color quite a bit and the consensus seems to be that most manufacturer's GSB replicates the post-WW2 shade, which was a bit different (a more-blackish tint I believe).    Colorcoats GSB is supposed to be a very good match to the WW2 spec GSB.   I like the stuff quite a bit. It sprays extremely well. Only issue is it comes in those damned tinlets which I can't stand.   Given the size of this model, I strongly suggest that you go with 3 tins of this stuff.   You might make it with two but it will be close.    The only other issue is that this paint isn't very glossy.   More of a satin sheen which is probably realistic for the real thing after a few months in service but this means I'll have to clearcoat the model.  Again, not a big deal, just an observation.

 

Here are a few pics.  Note that my camera sucks.   The actual color is a nice deep blue, it appears lighter in these pics.  Oh well. 

 

 

 

 

That's it.  Thanks for all the feedback and for looking!

Edited November 18, 2018 by John1

[LSP_Kevin]

17 minutes ago, John1 said:

After that, I completed my painting.  I few comments on the paintwork.  Originally, the USN had a really nice (and probably very effective three-color camo scheme for the earlier A model Corsair.    

 

 

This is your painting, John? It's absolutely stunning! Dynamic, vibrant, arresting - I can't take my eyes off it. Just superb.

 

Kev

[dennismcc]

Just read this thread from end to end and it is absolutely amazing, the attention to detail is something that I can only dream about, keep it up.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[alaninaustria]

What a terrific build! Outstanding!! How did you get the chipping so realistic?

Cheers

Alan

[John1]

15 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:

 

This is your painting, John? It's absolutely stunning! Dynamic, vibrant, arresting - I can't take my eyes off it. Just superb.

 

Kev

LOL...  If I had painted it, you wouldn't even be able to tell their was an aircraft in there.   No, I was just looking for a pic to illustrate the previous 3-color "graduated" scheme and came upon this one after some Google-fu.   It's actually the box art from a Revel kit.   I agree - it's a very nice painting, isn't it?

 

BTW - for those interested, Dana Bell's book has a lot of info on those earlier paint scheme's.  Seems that there were 4 different versions.   I can't recommend his Corsair books highly enough.

[JeepsGunsTanks]

This build looks amazing. I can't wait to see the finished bird!

[John1]

2 hours ago, Jennings Heilig said:

Looking nicer and nicer!  Have you decided for sure which markings it's going to have??

 

90% certain it's gonna be "My Nel III" of VMF-511 off the USS Block Island.   I like the fact that it's got nose-art and a bit of color (at least by the standards of a late war Corsair) - white prop tip and the same on the very end of the aft fuselage.   Also think those creamy white tipped HVAR's add a bit of uniqueness.   Question for you - why don't those Block Island Corsairs have any carrier ID markings on the wings?   All the other Corsairs in this time period with those ID markings have them repeated on the wings.  

 

If for some reason, I botch the the decal application, Plan B is the lightning bolt-marked White 51 of VF-85 / USS Shangri-La. 

[ShotMagnet]

Really nice work. I am so tempted to do mine in the 3-color white/medium blue/dark blue scheme, but as you pointed out the Navy opted to go with something simpler so it probably wouldn't look right for my -1D to sport that scheme if it also has the rockets. Sigh...

 

Does the kit come with the ignition pigtails for the rockets, or will you have to scratch those?

 

 

Shot

[John1]

1 hour ago, ShotMagnet said:

Really nice work. I am so tempted to do mine in the 3-color white/medium blue/dark blue scheme, but as you pointed out the Navy opted to go with something simpler so it probably wouldn't look right for my -1D to sport that scheme if it also has the rockets. Sigh...

 

Does the kit come with the ignition pigtails for the rockets, or will you have to scratch those?

 

 

Shot

I think a few very early -1D’s might have been in three color scheme, not 100 percent sure.  

 

No pigtails for the HVAR’s but the receptacle is molded on the aft launcher stub so it shouldn’t be that hard to replicate these with a small length of fine copper wire.   

Edited November 20, 2018 by John1

[alaninaustria]

Outstanding work and attention to detail!!

Cheers

Alan

[John1]

On 11/18/2018 at 6:46 AM, alaninaustria said:

What a terrific build! Outstanding!! How did you get the chipping so realistic?

Cheers

Alan

 

Hi Alan, thanks for the compliments.  The chipping is my first attempt at the "hairspray technique".   It's still a work in progress, I'm going to refine this and probably do a bit of dry brushing as well.   Looks a bit "loud" because I haven't done any other weathering yet.

 

It works like this - apply a base coat of dull silver.   Coat with hairspray (doesn't matter what type).  I typically don't spray it on the model, just decant a bit into the cap, let the bubbles go away and then hand brush on a light coating.  It should dry nice and smoothly.   Once dry, shoot a coating of whatever primer color you need (for this area, it's yellow zinc chromate).  Let dry and add another coating of hairspray.   Once dry, shoot your final color topcoat.    Don't let it dry for too long.   Then take a cut off paint brush (with nice still bristles), wet the area and start dabbing the brush into the paint.  You should see the layers of paint start to gradually lift up.  Take your time and all will be well.  Might have to go back and touch things up, or do a bit of drybrushing to get things just right.    Like I said, it's still a work in progress but I think it looks much better than my old technique of simply dry brushing silver over the topcoat.  

 

Here's my model, prior to shooting the Gloss Sea Blue topcoat.

Hope this helps a bit, let me know if you have any questions...  

 

John