review Tamiya 60325: F4U-1A Corsair

[John1]

5 hours ago, Dave J said:

 

The trick is using heat. Low heat setting on a hairdryer with a moist cotton bud to push the trapped air and conform around details. Works on older kits and new releases.

Dave, do you use any setting solutions?   From what I’m hearing, these sound like Wingnut’s decals.    Decent quality but thick and tough to work with, aside from the hot air trick, which I only had limited success with.   

[Dave J]

@John1 I use no setting solutions at all. Pretty much my Setting Solutions have sat untouched for the last 8 years.

 

[cbk57]

Tamiya decals may be thick but as a rule colors under the decal don’t bleed through.  With good decal setter they will conform nicely.  Be careful with Mr. Marc softer as it is very strong and wants to bead on the surface of the decal this in turn leaves blotchiness sometimes for me after the decal dries.  

[Dave Williams]

I don’t have an issue with Tamiya decals.  Just use Solvaset on them.

 

To expand, it’s a matter of just having a second type of decal setting solution on hand for the thick decals (Tamiya, Hasegawa,  Cartograf).  I don’t think it’s a hassle or expensive to have more than one brand of decal setting solution around for different decals.  I have a large bottle of Solvaset that I bought years ago and has many more years of life left, plus the expense is a drop in the bucket compared to the money I spend on kits, decals, and resin.  I think of it as just a different tool for different uses, like using different brushes, or glues, or knives.

Edited August 15, 2018 by Dave Williams

[Out2gtcha]

Ill to put these good pieces of advice into practice on my decal/paint mule and see how it goes.

[1to1scale]

On 8/14/2018 at 9:00 AM, Out2gtcha said:

Yeah, I have to admit I have not used any Tamiya decals with their new tool LSPs, but I've been burnt with their thick stuff so much in the past, I haven't even tried honestly. 

 

I actually used some Solvaset on my last batch of Tamiya insignia's I used, and it really didn't do much to them at all. I was hesitant to try the hotter Mr Mark stuff,  feeling like if it was that hard to get them to settle, I would just move on to other decals that I know worked substantially easier. 

I did try all three solvents, Solvaset, Mr Mark, and Tamiya, the decals completely covered the rivets and would not suck down, so I used Montex Masks and HGW stencils. The HGW worked great, but you absolutely have to use a clear over tamiya paint, or they will become one with the paint permanently, just like a decal! I learned a lot from doing my Corsair, and I do believe that the finish came out much better than if I used Tamiya's decals. 

Edited August 15, 2018 by 1to1scale
I cant spell any better than a 2nd grader.