Gluing canopies

[DonH 939]

Having had success using Future to glue small photo etch parts, I have recently started to use it to glue canopies in place. No issues with fumes, it is invisible when dry and if there are some slight gaps, I can fill them using more Future.

 

Is this common practice and, if not, have I just been lucky so far and are there pitfalls waiting to trip me up and kick me when I am down?

[dodgem37 6,075]

I use Future to adhere formation lights.  I haven't tried it to adhere canopies.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[LSP_Kevin 22,294]

I prefer to use something a little stronger, which in my case is Gator's Grip. It's a water-based acrylic 'white glue', but stronger than PVC. It dries clear, can be cleaned up with water, and is thick enough for some minor gap-filling. In other words, it has all the benefits of floor polish, but with superior strength and gap-filling properties.

 

Kev

[Shawn M 7,680]

I use RC56 or Arlenes for my clear bits.

If I am gluing something to a clear part, I will use future.

[Sparzanza 2,064]

I use Tamiya glue and even Humbrol sometimes. But if the canopy framing is too thin or non-existant, I use Mikro Kristal Klear instead.

 

I like the stronger glues because it means the piece will sit better, I guess. I remember using Tamiya's extra thin cement to glue the windows on both of my 1/24 Willys Jeeps, which slides directly into the framing, and there was no fogging whatsoever. It's why I've come to trust strong cement for these tasks.