DonH 1,128 Posted August 8, 2018 Having had success using Future to glue small photo etch parts, I have recently started to use it to glue canopies in place. No issues with fumes, it is invisible when dry and if there are some slight gaps, I can fill them using more Future. Is this common practice and, if not, have I just been lucky so far and are there pitfalls waiting to trip me up and kick me when I am down? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dodgem37 6,534 Posted August 8, 2018 I use Future to adhere formation lights. I haven't tried it to adhere canopies. Sincerely, Mark 1 DonH reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LSP_Kevin 24,760 Posted August 8, 2018 I prefer to use something a little stronger, which in my case is Gator's Grip. It's a water-based acrylic 'white glue', but stronger than PVC. It dries clear, can be cleaned up with water, and is thick enough for some minor gap-filling. In other words, it has all the benefits of floor polish, but with superior strength and gap-filling properties. Kev 3 DonH, Bill_S and D.B. Andrus reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shawn M 8,899 Posted August 8, 2018 I use RC56 or Arlenes for my clear bits. If I am gluing something to a clear part, I will use future. 1 DonH reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparzanza 2,069 Posted August 8, 2018 I use Tamiya glue and even Humbrol sometimes. But if the canopy framing is too thin or non-existant, I use Mikro Kristal Klear instead. I like the stronger glues because it means the piece will sit better, I guess. I remember using Tamiya's extra thin cement to glue the windows on both of my 1/24 Willys Jeeps, which slides directly into the framing, and there was no fogging whatsoever. It's why I've come to trust strong cement for these tasks. 1 DonH reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottsGT 3,017 Posted August 22, 2018 On 8/8/2018 at 3:34 PM, Shawn M said: I use RC56 or Arlenes for my clear bits. If I am gluing something to a clear part, I will use future. Now known as Formula 560 if anyone goes looking for it. Great stuff!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Out2gtcha 26,546 Posted August 22, 2018 I must be in the minority. I've tried Gators Grip, R/C 56 and even MS foil glue for attaching canopies and especially windscreens with mixed luck. I have yet to find anything that works as well, or holds as strong as using capillary action to wick ultra thin CA in the panel line between the fuselage and windscreen. Of course it means you have to dip in Future or the like to keep the CA fumes away from the clear plastic, but worth it to me. As to canopies I do use Gators and the like there sometimes as generally there is not as big of a need to have pressure on a canopy to keep it in place like there can be on windscreens. I think generally I like open canopies, so sometimes if the fit is good enough, I don't even glue them on for the ability to pose them open or closed. 1 DonH reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D.B. Andrus 2,548 Posted August 26, 2018 I've just started using Tamiya X-22 for an adhesive with PE. It seems to be a bit tackier than Future, it dries quickly and is very hard. With an inset wing bottom landing light I put several coats of X-22 to make a clear, flush cover for the MV lens light. After thorough drying I sanded the surface smooth and polished with Micro-Mesh, turned out flush, seamless and smooth as baby's bottom. Next is to see if it works as well with canopies. Also, Liquitex Matt(or Gloss) Gel medium works well, too. The Gator Glue that I have seems to be made of something thinner such as Gloss Medium. The formula they use may have changed as I purchased mine a long time ago. I picked up some Cemedine adhesive - heard about here re. a HK Lancaster test shot build - will report when done giving it a try. Cheers, D.B. 2 DonH and Out2gtcha reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gazzas 5,011 Posted August 28, 2018 On 8/26/2018 at 1:43 PM, D.B. Andrus said: I've just started using Tamiya X-22 for an adhesive with PE. It seems to be a bit tackier than Future, it dries quickly and is very hard. With an inset wing bottom landing light I put several coats of X-22 to make a clear, flush cover for the MV lens light. After thorough drying I sanded the surface smooth and polished with Micro-Mesh, turned out flush, seamless and smooth as baby's bottom. Next is to see if it works as well with canopies. Also, Liquitex Matt(or Gloss) Gel medium works well, too. The Gator Glue that I have seems to be made of something thinner such as Gloss Medium. The formula they use may have changed as I purchased mine a long time ago. I picked up some Cemedine adhesive - heard about here re. a HK Lancaster test shot build - will report when done giving it a try. Cheers, D.B. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. I am looking for a better solution for canopies. Gaz 1 D.B. Andrus reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Madelf75 333 Posted August 29, 2018 On 8/22/2018 at 11:18 AM, Out2gtcha said: I must be in the minority. I've tried Gators Grip, R/C 56 and even MS foil glue for attaching canopies and especially windscreens with mixed luck. I have yet to find anything that works as well, or holds as strong as using capillary action to wick ultra thin CA in the panel line between the fuselage and windscreen. Of course it means you have to dip in Future or the like to keep the CA fumes away from the clear plastic, but worth it to me. As to canopies I do use Gators and the like there sometimes as generally there is not as big of a need to have pressure on a canopy to keep it in place like there can be on windscreens. I think generally I like open canopies, so sometimes if the fit is good enough, I don't even glue them on for the ability to pose them open or closed. I have always used tamiya glue .it works great and very controllable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites