Messerschmitt Bf109 F-4 (really a G2) by Trumpeter

[MikeC]

40 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said:

Gaz, my go-to solution in situations like this is a 50/50 mix of CA gel and talcum powder. Mix it thoroughly to form a gritty paste, roughly the consistency of toothpaste, and apply it as required. The advantages of this mix are that it doesn't cure anywhere near as hard straight CA does, and has much better filling properties. Leave it a few hours to cure fully (the thicker the application, the longer it takes to dry, obviously enough), and then carefully sand out as you would any other filler. It feathers beautifully, and can be rescribed more easily than most fillers (including straight CA).

 

Anyway, it's something to try before binning the project.

 

Kev

I use this occasionally.  It has an added bonus: depending on the brand of talc, it makes your model smell nice as well.

[LSP_Kevin]

2 hours ago, MikeC said:

I use this occasionally.  It has an added bonus: depending on the brand of talc, it makes your model smell nice as well.

 

Some combinations of brands of each product have apparently been known to produce formaldehyde!

 

Kev

[Gazzas]

I've used CA and baking powder to fill large gaps.  The ones I have left are pin pricks or shallow faults in panel lines.  If they weren't so numerous, I'd just drill and fill.

 

Gaz

[thierry laurent]

Don't despair. There is no perfect way to do it and believe me, I've tested nearly everything! I even tried structured paint intended to be used on clothes! Finally, Gunze dissolved putty stays the best solution. However, I generally store the putty container upside down. This ensures you use the thickest part when you use it. I apply it with a toothpick. Nonetheless, at least three to five steps were required to correctly fill the huge rivet holes in my Trumpeter MiG or the wings of my Revell reco Spitfire. CA glue may look better but you have the same issue of half-filled rivet holes here and there and it is far more time-consuming to sand. I tried with or without accelerator, with or without baking soda, talc, flour or glass micro-balls! This bring some advantages but also other issues. I do not recommend paint, dissolved styrene or thinned putty either as the retraction factor is higher and consequently you need more applications, notwithstanding the generally longer drying time. No perfect solution, alas! Last, dissolved putty is stable. I do not have "ghost" rivets reappearing. 

 

Hth

 

Thierry 

[Wegener]

As you used Mr DP first, I wonder if it might be worth continuing with it.  I had a jar of it which went hard and was amazed to discover that adding Mr Color Thinner (the regular non-levelling stuff) resurrected it.  Since it will dissolve Mr DP, I suspect that applying more DP over the existing coat might well bond to the original better than switching to another type.

 

Personally I used Bondo on my Trumpeter 262 but it is a bit tricky to keep out of the panel lines and other areas I wanted to avoid.  Yes, I know I should have masked them!