Iwata LPH 80 Tips? Suggestions?

[Adam D]

Hello everyone.

I'm new to the forum and the hobby. I have followed Paul Budzik's suggestions and have had great success with my airbrushing. I now have a new spray gun and need some help.

I am using MRP lacquer paints and primer, which by the way are fantastic in my opinion especially for a beginner like me and I don't want to ever use anything else!

When I use the LPH 80 should I aim for one full wet coat with each pass or two thin coats for the same area? My hope is that two or three thin coats would be suitable because I seem to have more control but I'm not sure if I am getting the most out of the gun using it that way. Thank you very much in advance.

Adam

[Out2gtcha]

Welcome to the forums!

 

Im no expert on MRP paints but have used them consistently for the past few months and have a fairly extensive supply of them now. One advantage to MRP paints to me is they are IMHO, very difficult to get to run or pool if you have the PSI set to around 15 - 25 PSI and dont have the airbrush trigger set to shoot "full blast" so to speak.  I usually tweaked/cranked down to 0 with NO movement, then open things up 1/2 or 1 full crank at a time to shoot the bare minimum particulate. 

I tend to shoot 3 - 5 very thin coats at about 20 or 25 PSI out of my Iwata HP-CS.   MRP seems to shoot very nicely that way, and I have found one secret with MRP being so thin/pre-thinned, that a very light and especially a light neutral pre-coat ( I like using Tamiya fine white primer for this) goes a long way to not having to use a ton of MRP paint to cover things. Having a light/white base makes shooting yellows and other whites/light colors much easier. 

 

I like them as I can build up very light layers to good opacity, and yet not have to use a whole bottle on a single model (unless said LSP is REALLY "L")

[DeanKB]

Hi, welcome!

 

I always use fewer, thinner coats. It'll stop "puddling" and the finish is more consistent. One big "splurge" is liable to pool. Make sure you've thinned the paint sufficiently and have the right air pressure. 99% of problems are down to those two factors, IMHO. Get some plastic and practice!

 

Paul Budzik knows his stuff. However, I think he places too great an emphasis upon equipment, especially expensive stuff. Have a look on here to get a broader understanding, or simply post a question. People on here are knowledgeable, They'll really, really help you!

[Out2gtcha]

I didnt notice the "LPH 80" part of your request.   Not really familiar with that AB, but seems on first glance a really BIG airbrush for modeling use. 

[DeanKB]

I didnt notice the "LPH 80" part of your request.   Not really familiar with that AB, but seems on first glance a really BIG airbrush for modeling use. 

It's a big old airbrush, needle size up to 1.2mm!!!

 

I have seen it used once, but that was for spray tanning. (Not me. I'm very white).

 

I think Paul was suggesting its use on really big models, like boat hulls. Sure puts down a lot of paint very quickly. 

[Out2gtcha]

It's a big old airbrush, needle size up to 1.2mm!!!

 

I have seen it used once, but that was for spray tanning. (Not me. I'm very white).

 

I think Paul was suggesting its use on really big models, like boat hulls. Sure puts down a lot of paint very quickly. 

 

 

Indeed! It would seem you could cover about 4 of my 1/32nd Extra 330 models with one go round of that AB! 

[DeanKB]

Indeed! It would seem you could cover about 4 of my 1/32nd Extra 330 models with one go round of that AB! 

Yep.

 

I don't know anybody in the hobby with one. Paul will have one purely for willy-waving purposes, although I'm sure it will come in useful at some point, but it would not get much use on my workbench.

 

Unless I wanted a tan.

[Out2gtcha]

For me, when it comes to airbrushes, fidelity is one of the biggest parts. If its large in my hand, and doesnt get super fine, or the AB is a big PITA to have to change out tips or the like, I tend to use it less.

 

I have and use my Iwata HP-CS more than any of my other airbrushes based solely on the fact that is is SUPER durable, can get really fine without generally changing tips, and is quite robust, with a hella stout needle. 

[Adam D]

Thank you Dean and Out2gtcha,

I use two airbrushes, an HP C+ and HP CS. The hvlp gun has a .6 nozzle and needle and I thought it would be the best way to get a smooth finish on 1/32nd scale aircraft. If I can avoid using it and get the same or better result with my airbrushes that would be fantastic. I really appreciate your help.

Adam

[DeanKB]

It may come in useful for stuff like 1/32 He 111's, or Ju 88's, B-25's, B-17's, etc, for priming. Those bombers are pretty big in 1/32.

 

Please let us know how you get on.

 

Also, show us some of your work when you do get started. You can upload photo's to Flickr or similar for free. If you need any help, let us know.

 

Good luck Adam! 

[LSP_K2]

I didnt notice the "LPH 80" part of your request.   Not really familiar with that AB, but seems on first glance a really BIG airbrush for modeling use. 

 

It would appear to be the perfect type of equipment for painting car model bodies.

[DeanKB]

On 7/6/2018 at 10:41 PM, LSP_Typhoonattack said:

 

It would appear to be the perfect type of equipment for painting car model bodies.

And actual cars.

[Adam D]

Ha! If anyone has a 60’s Dodge in need of some TLC I’ve got one piece of essential equipment.  

The story behind this paint gun may be of some help to others on the forum.  

  I first saw a post and photos of a completed AMK Mig 31 and that is what I am working on now.  The builder used an Iwata RG-3 and I thought why not?

So I bought one and I have had a very hard time learning to use it.  Using the air cap seems to require more art than science.  So then I sold the RG-3. The LPH 80 has for me at least a more intuitive set of controls.  I do have some twin engined WW II aircraft on my wish list so I’ll post my successes and failures.

Adam