panzer948 Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Hi, I picked up my first WWI plane and WNW kit all in one... which means rigging time! Thought I would research this first prior to jumping in. One reason I picked this kit up as my first rigging project is cause it has so little required. Nevertheless, I want to do it right and make this a learning experience for bigger projects down the road. I've been on Bob's Buckles site and some other forums but am still be confused about what I need. His "how" page seemed to include several methods together. It seems the British had a very different method. I think I need both a buckle and small tube to go over my line. I currently already have Fine EZ Line from another project so am hoping I can use that once I purchase the buckles (and tubes if needed) from a source like Bob's Buckles, Gaspatch etc.. Can anyone tell me how many and what size buckles and tubes I need for this project? Maybe even a demo of how this works on a German biplane like the W.12. Thanks for any help you can provide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John1 Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 You picked a good kit for your first WW1 aircraft. I believe it's got a total of 6 lines of rigging required. On my W12, I wimped out and just used stretched sprue with some white glue applied at one end, which I painted differently when it dried. I find many of the turnbuckles I've seen out there to look overscale, so I stay away from them. That being said, Bob's Buckles are highly rated, hopefully someone who has used them will be along to provide some guidance. Good luck on your build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Not sure that many people with agree with me, but I am not convinced you really need turnbuckles. I tried using them and they are extremely small and I gave up in the end. Troy Molitor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Gaspatch's buckles are just too damned big, expensive and have the 3D printed look to them. I don't like them. I'd use Bob's Buckles, Brengun's PE buckles or Radub's PE buckles. Bear in mind, WNW advise against using anything other than a blob of suitably painted glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panzer948 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Okay thanks for the input on all. So it seems Bob's Buckles is a bit better to scale than Gaspatch then. I looked at his site and it looks like you just buy a set in bulk rather than a kit with the exact number you need for your model. With 6 lines of rigging, that would be only 12 (two on each end right). Then I would need the tubing I think too, which I am most confused about. I see it used in different ways. Any size recommendations? Thanks! Gaspatch's buckles are just too damned big, expensive and have the 3D printed look to them. I don't like them. I'd use Bob's Buckles, Brengun's PE buckles or Radub's PE buckles. Bear in mind, WNW advise against using anything other than a blob of suitably painted glue. phantomdriver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 You buy the tubes & twisted wire eyelets separately. Just buy a small amount of both, as you'll not need many. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panzer948 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Thanks all for the info. My quest to figure this out uncovered a couple of links I thought I would share for others that happen upon this thread. Just looking/watching these links answered much of my remaining questions. I think the only thing remaining is trying to figure out the exact setup for a particular aircraft like the W.12 (since the various methods do portray different looks to the end product). But to be honest, probably any of these methods at this scale will do as we are talking 100 years ago. The fact is, they may have used different ways to rig the real planes, especially at times of war when things were getting difficult to keep flying. Anyway, check out these cool links for more info: See this vid on how a guy made turnbuckles and eyelets out of wire and tubing (2 Part series): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdyjLUqfCS0 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUgLd0gU_rg Here is a great write-up with links to make your own: https://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page6.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Des's site is superb - still can't believe he's passed on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 I went to 1/32 scale because I detest handling itsy bitsy little parts. This is a hobby for pleasure, not self torture. Horay for WNW's advice. "A little dab will do you.'' was an ad slogan for Brylcream and also for using glue to simulate turnbuckles. Its my model I'll build it my way. If, however, someone comes up with scale working turnbuckles, then I'll buy and use them. Troy Molitor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Panzer I used the gaspatch ones on my w12 build. I sometimes use gaspatch 1/32 and 1/48th scale buckles depending on the location and use of the turnbuckle on the real aircraft. I would not build anything ww1 without using Bob's buckles eyelets and tubing and that's not an understatement! Bob's buckles are simply this good! If you are interested to see how gaspatch ones look then you can take a look at the w12 ready for insp post i did which i will link below. It also includes a link to the work in progress section if you want to get a headsup on how the kit falls together. On the bristol crocodile i last built i just used Bob's items to simulate tightening buckles on the control lines so take a look at that too Bottom line, I'd recommend Bob's stuff without even blinking! Karim https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=74407&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=75469&page=1 CANicoll, Rick Griewski and scvrobeson 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 (edited) I say Bob's Bob's buckles, too. Prepare to use magnification! Edited July 2, 2018 by Gazzas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 I've used Radu's PE buckles to good effect. Like glues, there is no one single answer. Be willing to use a variety to suit your eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Thanks all for the info. My quest to figure this out uncovered a couple of links I thought I would share for others that happen upon this thread. Just looking/watching these links answered much of my remaining questions. I think the only thing remaining is trying to figure out the exact setup for a particular aircraft like the W.12 (since the various methods do portray different looks to the end product). But to be honest, probably any of these methods at this scale will do as we are talking 100 years ago. The fact is, they may have used different ways to rig the real planes, especially at times of war when things were getting difficult to keep flying. Anyway, check out these cool links for more info: See this vid on how a guy made turnbuckles and eyelets out of wire and tubing (2 Part series): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdyjLUqfCS0 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUgLd0gU_rg Here is a great write-up with links to make your own: https://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page6.html Holy Doodle,!!!!.................. IF......... I could do that....... I'd be a surgeon, not an old fat retired equipment operator.......that is as delicate as heart surgery.........and you guys wouldn't want ME operating on any of you......I shiver and shake like a dog pooping razor blades...... I could never do that, although I sure like to........ awesome end results......I guess I had better stick to stuff with ONE wing....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 That was very descriptive Jeff. Thanks for the insight...... actually, doing WWI stuff is the same as WWII stuff, or those other things with fire coming out the back; there are a few tricks of the trade but it can all be learned, and a good way to challenge your self. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 (edited) Holy Doodle,!!!!.................. IF......... I could do that....... I'd be a surgeon, not an old fat retired equipment operator.......that is as delicate as heart surgery.........and you guys wouldn't want ME operating on any of you......I shiver and shake like a dog pooping razor blades...... I could never do that, although I sure like to........ awesome end results......I guess I had better stick to stuff with ONE wing....... Yeah ummm... Thanks for the imagery. Being the large clumsy type, I can tell you that the key is magnification and light, not steadiness of hands. If you can build models, you probably have better fine-motor skills than the average 20-year-old. Also... don't have a cup of coffee right before you start rigging...lol I thought I had terrible fine-motor skills until I had to compete in a drinking game involving and electronic figure and a metal probe and thoroughly demotivated the much-younger competition. Heck, you probably could beat your grand kids at that old game "Operation". Gaz Edited July 2, 2018 by Gazzas Jeff and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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