mozart Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 I have no problem with the lacquer smell to be honest though I guess some people may find it quite strong. I can imagine when doing a large surface, like the Lancaster for example that it could be a problem but I'd spray in shorter sessions. Just open a window a smidgeon and it's ok. The quality of the finish and ease of use is well worth any slight discomfort from the fumes for a short while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 That's looking really fantastic, Max! Kev mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 The mottling is perfect Max! Well done! Alain mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 Thanks Kev and Alain. I did it much more quickly than anticipated, about half an hour I think. It was critical keeping the trigger pressure constant on the airbrush but I found I could move easily from one patch to another without messing up just by pulling the a/b back from the surface a little. Hoping to get some markings on today, pouring down outside so good for modelling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 Just caught up with this one Max: amazing work, you have infinitely more patience and sheer skill than I do. Looking forward to seeing completion. (For once that emoji-thing seems quite inadequate). mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 Thank you Mike; read "bloody-mindedness and dogged determination" instead of patience and I'd maybe agree with you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 OK my friends, a question for all you Experten!! This is the linkage mechanism on Hendon's Bf110G4 which closes the undercarriage doors. It is prominent enough in our scale, yet I've never seen it modelled. I attempted to do it on my Bf110E, tried different methods and different materials but never came up with a satisfactory solution, I ended up with a very rudimentary couple of metal strips. I'm still pondering for this latest build and still no closer to an answer, any thoughts fellas?? Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j ferguson Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 Is that what it appears to be? A cup with a drain line to make sure that whatever would otherwise leak on the tire (tyre?) will go somewhere else. Germans are so creative with no problem unsolved and then usually with clever designs. I wonder how many other things d in like this can be found in this plane. Alain Gadbois and mozart 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 3 minutes ago, j ferguson said: Is that what it appears to be? A cup with a drain line to make sure that whatever would otherwise leak on the tire (tyre?) will go somewhere else. Germans are so creative with no problem unsolved and then usually with clever designs. I wonder how many other things d in like this can be found in this plane. Yes, exactly that, but I'm not sure it always worked: dennismcc, Alain Gadbois and Out2gtcha 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 I would attempt using stretched sprue, if you don't have very small diameter rod. The biggest problem seems to me to be how to attach it to the doors and undercarriage leg braces. I have the Squadron Walkaround that has a few useful photos of that area, if you're interested. Alain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 That was one of my first attempts Alain, it kind of worked but not well enough for me, we're looking at about 12mm door to door. I've drilled the front edge of each door and put in wire pins so these are the main ttachment points. Not sure where the springs are going to attach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 The springs are fixed on each brace of the leg at about the level of the wheel doors hinges mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 I used parts from a small exrerior etch set by Eduard for the D version for mine Max, a little 2D but did the job nicely in the end. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ED32235 A bit pricey for what it is but some useful bits and pieces on it. Regards. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 Thanks Andy, just the ticket but not sure I can justify £15.00 plus p&p on two small bits of etch. I think the soldering iron may need to come out!! monthebiff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 its actually designed to capture dripped oil and lubricate the gear swing hinges when retracted, as pointed out it wasn't always the most effective. I was going to replicate this detail as well. carve down some sprue to make "the cup" and hollow it out a bit, the rest is wire or styrene. Its mounted to the gear leg, the rest of the cables springs etc are for the gear doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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