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In that case, I'd just get hold of a few jars of Mr. Surfacer in different grades and shades, along with a bottle of Mr. Color Thinner (Levelling or not), and just thin them for airbrushing. It'll be more expensive up front, but will last a lot longer, and be cheaper than the cans. Generally speaking, I've found the Tamiya primers and Mr. Surfacer products to be roughly equivalent in performance, but I do think the Tamiya cans spray a little better.

 

Kev

Kevin,

 

The primer I was using in the 80s was called Lucite and made by Du Pont (USA). Now that you mentioned it, it closely resembles the Mr Surfacer 1200 I have here at hand: same texture, same color, same smell ( I didn't say same taste ;-). Guess I could have diluted it and use it as a primer.

 

So obvious a solution!

 

Thanks for your tip,

Cheers

Quang

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Hi Don

 

Yep I am a great lover of the car primers from Halfords - Don't think there is anything special about them its just a car primer in a can and Halfords is convenient to me on the way home from work.

 

I use the High Temp silver for a under metal look - couple of light sprays. It drys pretty quickly then polish with a soft cloth, old knackered cotton t-shirts. I have never had any problems with paint lifting. Only with my clumsiness with finger grease! :doh:

 

Others are the gray plastic primer and there filler primer (the bright orange you see on some of the builds on here)

 

Other than that Tam supper fine

 

I never decant these - I can make enough mess from the can with out doing this! just keep it a light spray, good drying time and a polish to finish - Oh and watch out for the finger grease.

 

Happey Days - Taff :D

 

 

Indeed. They're all good by themselves. Problems only occur when you apply masking tape on them.

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I'm curious as I've not had any issues whatsoever with the Valljo primers - the white, gray or gloss black - lifting after any masking. I use the Tamiya tape but usually detack it a bit (sometimes I do forget) but usually I can paint within an hour of laying down the primer, then mask 12 hours after that.

Chris

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CHECKERTAIL at last!

 

Time to put on the livery. This is the machine I chose to depict.

 

DE9_EE336_8_E01_4705_BDCB_C977000_E074_B

 

This is how this a/c appeared in October 1944. But it was known that the color scheme went through several changes since May 1944 when the 317th sq. received their first P-51D. I haven't decided yet which definitive scheme I would choose for the model –still looking for additional photos, so anyone …? :coolio: . One sure thing is that it included the famous black and yellow checkerboard on its tail.

 

First thing to do is paint the yellow background. I had the Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow at hand but found it a little too lemon to my taste. So I decided to put on a PINK –instead of white– base coat in hope that it would warm up the yellow.

A60_A9783_F702_4_BC0_B6_BE_2_B8_A108_CEE

 

The yellow turned out rather nice.

AC521_C54_C791_4_C84_B7_BE_3_CFA18512_FE

 

While the yellow was drying, I transfered the black squares on tracing paper with the correct size, spacing and angle so that the result would match the real a/c. Only paper and pencil.

Old school, right?

A8_E2_FE82_3_AEA_4_C58_946_F_AE357_C2676

 

First I thought about airbrushing the whole area using masks cut from Tamiya tape but positioning the masks proved very difficult.

So up to plan B: the black squares are cut from black decal sheet and positioned one by one.

 

The problem is to know where to start. Using the original tracing, two axles were determined and their positions transferred to the kit.

Axle_txt.jpg

 

First square positioned

axle2.jpg

 

Following squares aligned on the axles

Axle3.jpg

 

And so on

Axle4.jpg

 

One side done

03_F2_A338_2392_431_C_9_DBE_D154_DF3_B88

 

Two days later

EC3_C39_E6_BA09_4_F77_B2_ED_D59_F39_AACD

 

36_FA075_D_8225_434_F_944_F_F58_F40_CC07

 

Needing a little rest now.

See ya next.

Comments, questions, yadda yadda ...

 

Cheers,

Quang

 

 

 

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Guest Peterpools

Quang

Absolutely brilliant solution and the checker board pattern looks perfect!

Keep ‘e comin

Peter

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I will try a different approach with the checkers. I will use a strip of masking tape to keep the angle and will try to put the square one by one. Then I will remove every second... 

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This looks terrific Quang! I love the bright checkers against the NMF.

 

 

I will try a different approach with the checkers. I will use a strip of masking tape to keep the angle and will try to put the square one by one. Then I will remove every second...

I printed out some suitably sized checks in my Silouhette program, laid down a straight edge in tape to keep things aligned, then did just that; used some clear frisket film to transfer all checkers over together, then removed every other check to paint the opposite color on my Fokker DV.II.

 

Worked a treat

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Guest

Sweeet , turned out great Q.       :goodjob:

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CHECKERTAIL at last!

 

See ya next.

Comments, questions, yadda yadda ...

 

Cheers,

Quang

 

I don't know why, but the horrifying thought just crossed my mind that the contemporary photos were shot on ortho film, and the black checks were actually the yellow ones, and vice versa. Ridiculous of course.But seriously, very neat checker pattern which isn't always as easy as you'd think. 

 

I was making up the red/black and yellow/black checkers of a graphic for Ramstein Phantom fin caps earlier today, and it takes real precision. At least it does for someone like me.

Edited by Chek

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I don't know why, but the horrifying thought just crossed my mind that the contemporary photos were shot on ortho film, and the black checks were actually the yellow ones, and vice versa. Ridiculous of course.But seriously, very neat checker pattern which isn't always as easy as you'd think. 

 

I was making up the red/black and yellow/black checkers of a graphic for Ramstein Phantom fin caps earlier today, and it takes real precision. At least it does for someone like me.

Chek, no ortho on this WWII pic:

E439_B3_AA_13_B8_4_CAF_B2_B4_A1_FFB9071_

 

Indeed real precision is needed to get neat checkers especially if you want them to end up exactly like on the real thing. Everything needs to be correct including the KIT tail shape. One thing goes wrong, everything will go wrong.

I admit the checkers on my horizontal tail plane is not as accurate as I would like it, but in my defense I couldn't find a clear plan view of the original to base my pattern on.

 

This looks terrific Quang! I love the bright checkers against the NMF.

I printed out some suitably sized checks in my Silouhette program, laid down a straight edge in tape to keep things aligned, then did just that; used some clear frisket film to transfer all checkers over together, then removed every other check to paint the opposite color on my Fokker DV.II.

Worked a treat

Brian,

Like I said, this was done the old school way with just pen and paper. My Mac is so old that I cannot get my ancient graphic programs to work. Furthermore I don't have a printer anymore.

The hardest and most time-consuming was cutting the square decals with frisket knife and steel ruler.

 

That's the incorrect shade of yellow. Now scrape all those decals off and start over. 😉

JK, looks great!

We live in uncertain times. Catastrophe is impending. There's more to it.

Watch this space!

 

Cheers,

Quang

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