Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Quang,

 

Just looked at my front windshield after a Future bath - looking at it at a distance the plastic looks terrible - wavy, etc.  However, when placed up close the clarity improves significantly so I'm going to see about using the kit piece and see how it looks on the plane.  I do have both the Tamiya and the Revell canopies ready to go.  But have not even tried to test-fit the clear parts just yet. SO much else to work on in the meantime - not the least is securing all of the rest of the research on Lou IV from Dana which is on its way (esp the top side views and views of the right side of the fuselage).

 

Keep up the great work!

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris,

 

At any distance, the Revell clear parts remain wavy and distorted. The Future doesn't help. Compared with Tamiya, it's simply day and night.

 

Revell

7_A70_B581_8_FBA_4161_BE24_B3_EDD718_C11

 

Tamiya

DEFD2484_EF76_4_E69_A397_E8307172_BDD5.j

 

Our only options are:

– to wait for Revell to revise their method of production and re-issue better clear parts

– or for an enterprising after market producer to jump into the wagon and offer replacement parts. He would sell a ton of these.

 

In the mean time, let's enjoy what remains an outstanding model kit despite the serious mishap.

 

Cheers,

Quang

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris,

 

At any distance, the Revell clear parts remain wavy and distorted. The Future doesn't help. Compared with Tamiya, it's simply day and night.

 

Revell

7_A70_B581_8_FBA_4161_BE24_B3_EDD718_C11

 

Tamiya

DEFD2484_EF76_4_E69_A397_E8307172_BDD5.j

 

Our only options are:

– to wait for Revell to revise their method of production and re-issue better clear parts

– or for an enterprising after market producer to jump into the wagon and offer replacement parts. He would sell a ton of these.

 

In the mean time, let's enjoy what remains an outstanding model kit despite the serious mishap.

 

Cheers,

Quang

 

I'm definitely going with the Tamiya canopy, but will have to settle for the kit front windscreen.  We'll see if Revell is able to fix their clear part clarity issues.  Your handiwork replacing the front pane is definitely terrific!

 

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ooh, that's very impressive. I can see that you've raised the bar there and I will have to try that on mine now. Top job Quang.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For anyone in the US, I called up Tamiya USA and got x2 Tamiya P-51 windscreens for $3.50ish USD apiece.

 

It was all of about 12 something US dollars to have two Tamiya windscreens shipped to my front door.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ADDING THE FILLET

 

In case you missed the first part, it's HERE.

 

When we left it last time, the new tail profile has been transfered to one half-fuselage

985_A7130_EC5_D_4_F68_8973_4_A15_F1_C2_D

 

Now with the cockpit, tail wheel bay and radiators finished, the fuselage can be closed. We can resume work on the fillet, shaping and blending the profile to the original tail.

 

I'll be using mainly MILLIPUT Superfine WHITE for this modification. I favor Milliput putty over other brands because when cured, it has the same hardness as the kit plastic, can be easily sanded and filed and feathers admirably onto the surrounding area.

 

The first thing to do is to mark out the contour of the new panel with masking tape. Notice the black borders on the masking tape and the red ink on the edge of the plasticard. These are the "landmarks" of our add-on.

F40741_B6_A5_B8_4127_8_ADC_D383_F8057_F1

 

D164_F6_E3_B39_A_48_E3_9_CB2_2_C64_AAE77

 

B502_A212_C08_C_4_AAE_B70_B_3533900_EDD5

 

 

Make two small balls of Milliput –the size of a pea–, mix them thoroughly and roll the resulting ball into a small cylinder. The putty is then applied using a toothpick as a rolling pin.

006510_B1_F03_E_45_BC_8433_8_C0_F330_DBA

 

The putty is spread out with a wet finger, covering the entire new panel. Try not to go past the landmarks.

6_D2_FD476_ACBC_4_FA1_BE83_88_FD005_F5_F

 

Leave overnight to harden.

 

The new fillet is then filed and sanded to shape. Remove the masking tape. Voilà our swayback fillet!

A3101_CE5_C516_4_CFB_9_B27_08_EA93549_CC

 

Add more milliput to blend it to its new surrounding.

F235_F967_F163_4_E62_8_D66_BEC5366556_BE

 

C65_E453_A_8739_4_D6_D_BCDA_3_E520_C1_C8

 

A coat of primer helps to see the imperfections. Take care to keep the upper edge of the fillet razor sharp as per the original.

8_A3_B3_ADA_2_BD6_4181_9_C69_078_F510_F1

 

A final swipe with the wet-or-dry. Panel lines and rivets scribed on... and that's it, folks.

C11_EDFF0_D844_4588_94_CF_8_EB6_D2_CA71_

 

Until next time,

 

Keep well,

Quang

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work Q, although I won't be filleting mine as my Hasegawa D bacdated to a B aready has that feature, so for variety's sake...

 

I'm still impressed that there's no need to source photo-etch canopy rails for this kit, although what you've done with the radio etc. is tempting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...