quang Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 In that case, I'd just get hold of a few jars of Mr. Surfacer in different grades and shades, along with a bottle of Mr. Color Thinner (Levelling or not), and just thin them for airbrushing. It'll be more expensive up front, but will last a lot longer, and be cheaper than the cans. Generally speaking, I've found the Tamiya primers and Mr. Surfacer products to be roughly equivalent in performance, but I do think the Tamiya cans spray a little better. Kev Kevin, The primer I was using in the 80s was called Lucite and made by Du Pont (USA). Now that you mentioned it, it closely resembles the Mr Surfacer 1200 I have here at hand: same texture, same color, same smell ( I didn't say same taste ;-). Guess I could have diluted it and use it as a primer. So obvious a solution! Thanks for your tip, Cheers Quang Uncarina and LSP_Kevin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Hi Don Yep I am a great lover of the car primers from Halfords - Don't think there is anything special about them its just a car primer in a can and Halfords is convenient to me on the way home from work. I use the High Temp silver for a under metal look - couple of light sprays. It drys pretty quickly then polish with a soft cloth, old knackered cotton t-shirts. I have never had any problems with paint lifting. Only with my clumsiness with finger grease! Others are the gray plastic primer and there filler primer (the bright orange you see on some of the builds on here) Other than that Tam supper fine I never decant these - I can make enough mess from the can with out doing this! just keep it a light spray, good drying time and a polish to finish - Oh and watch out for the finger grease. Happey Days - Taff Indeed. They're all good by themselves. Problems only occur when you apply masking tape on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 I've thinned Mr.S with 91% alcohol no problem. Even cheaper quang and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 Good to know. Thanks Mike! MikeMaben and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 I'm curious as I've not had any issues whatsoever with the Valljo primers - the white, gray or gloss black - lifting after any masking. I use the Tamiya tape but usually detack it a bit (sometimes I do forget) but usually I can paint within an hour of laying down the primer, then mask 12 hours after that. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 CHECKERTAIL at last! Time to put on the livery. This is the machine I chose to depict. This is how this a/c appeared in October 1944. But it was known that the color scheme went through several changes since May 1944 when the 317th sq. received their first P-51D. I haven't decided yet which definitive scheme I would choose for the model –still looking for additional photos, so anyone …? . One sure thing is that it included the famous black and yellow checkerboard on its tail. First thing to do is paint the yellow background. I had the Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow at hand but found it a little too lemon to my taste. So I decided to put on a PINK –instead of white– base coat in hope that it would warm up the yellow. The yellow turned out rather nice. While the yellow was drying, I transfered the black squares on tracing paper with the correct size, spacing and angle so that the result would match the real a/c. Only paper and pencil. Old school, right? First I thought about airbrushing the whole area using masks cut from Tamiya tape but positioning the masks proved very difficult. So up to plan B: the black squares are cut from black decal sheet and positioned one by one. The problem is to know where to start. Using the original tracing, two axles were determined and their positions transferred to the kit. First square positioned Following squares aligned on the axles And so on One side done Two days later Needing a little rest now. See ya next. Comments, questions, yadda yadda ... Cheers, Quang BiggTim, Rockie Yarwood, MikeMaben and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Quang Absolutely brilliant solution and the checker board pattern looks perfect! Keep ‘e comin Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipper Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 I will try a different approach with the checkers. I will use a strip of masking tape to keep the angle and will try to put the square one by one. Then I will remove every second... quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 That's the incorrect shade of yellow. Now scrape all those decals off and start over. 😉 JK, looks great! CANicoll and quang 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 That is an amazing amount of work and it looks terrific! Well done Quang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 This looks terrific Quang! I love the bright checkers against the NMF. I will try a different approach with the checkers. I will use a strip of masking tape to keep the angle and will try to put the square one by one. Then I will remove every second...I printed out some suitably sized checks in my Silouhette program, laid down a straight edge in tape to keep things aligned, then did just that; used some clear frisket film to transfer all checkers over together, then removed every other check to paint the opposite color on my Fokker DV.II. Worked a treat Greg W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Sweeet , turned out great Q. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 (edited) CHECKERTAIL at last! See ya next. Comments, questions, yadda yadda ... Cheers, Quang I don't know why, but the horrifying thought just crossed my mind that the contemporary photos were shot on ortho film, and the black checks were actually the yellow ones, and vice versa. Ridiculous of course.But seriously, very neat checker pattern which isn't always as easy as you'd think. I was making up the red/black and yellow/black checkers of a graphic for Ramstein Phantom fin caps earlier today, and it takes real precision. At least it does for someone like me. Edited June 6, 2018 by Chek quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 I don't know why, but the horrifying thought just crossed my mind that the contemporary photos were shot on ortho film, and the black checks were actually the yellow ones, and vice versa. Ridiculous of course.But seriously, very neat checker pattern which isn't always as easy as you'd think. I was making up the red/black and yellow/black checkers of a graphic for Ramstein Phantom fin caps earlier today, and it takes real precision. At least it does for someone like me. Chek, no ortho on this WWII pic: Indeed real precision is needed to get neat checkers especially if you want them to end up exactly like on the real thing. Everything needs to be correct including the KIT tail shape. One thing goes wrong, everything will go wrong. I admit the checkers on my horizontal tail plane is not as accurate as I would like it, but in my defense I couldn't find a clear plan view of the original to base my pattern on. This looks terrific Quang! I love the bright checkers against the NMF. I printed out some suitably sized checks in my Silouhette program, laid down a straight edge in tape to keep things aligned, then did just that; used some clear frisket film to transfer all checkers over together, then removed every other check to paint the opposite color on my Fokker DV.II. Worked a treat Brian,Like I said, this was done the old school way with just pen and paper. My Mac is so old that I cannot get my ancient graphic programs to work. Furthermore I don't have a printer anymore. The hardest and most time-consuming was cutting the square decals with frisket knife and steel ruler. That's the incorrect shade of yellow. Now scrape all those decals off and start over. 😉 JK, looks great! We live in uncertain times. Catastrophe is impending. There's more to it.Watch this space! Cheers, Quang Chek, Uncarina and CANicoll 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Quang, Hats off to you Sir! Simply brilliant: the finish and the technique. Cheers, Tom quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now