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quang

Revell early Mustang… CHECK… MATE!

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Gerhard, Maxim, Peter, Brian, thank you for your comments.

 

This build is not what I’d call a shake-and-bake but if you treat each problem as a separate project and deal with each one accordingly then the progression is pretty straightforward.

 

I’ve encountered a few ‘firsts’ with this build, namely the windshield replacement and the extensive work with the photo-etching for the wheel wells. Later on there will be the natural metal finish (another first) and the entirely hand-painted color scheme.

 

More excitement in perspective!

 

Quang

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Posted (edited)

 

The replacement photo-etched parts are tiny and require much patience and concentration. After completion, each sub-assembly is dipped in Klir, left to dry for extra strength and cemented in the wells with PVA glue.

 

What is Klir if I may ask? Is it like Future?

Edited by Gerhard

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Wow, that plumbing job is just impressive !

 

 

The point is to avoid making it looking like a mess.  :D

 

What is Klir if I may ask? Is it like Future?

 

 

Indeed, Gerhard.

 

Johnson KLIR is one of the many equivalents of Future in Europe. As an alternative, you can also use GAUZY, a new product developed with modellers in mind. 

 

A1554_E42_2258_4_F0_E_A50_D_A97_D2246919

 

I assembled the PE parts using PVA glue and waited 15 minutes for the glue to harden. Then using tweezers, I dipped the whole assembly in Klir the way I'd do with a clear part. 

 

The Klir/Future/Gauzy creates a micro skin wrap around the PE parts, strengthening the glue bonds and at the same time offering a nice surface for subsequent painting.

 

HTH

Q

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Posted (edited)

Hmm, thanks. We dont have an equivalent product here in SA. Will see if I can find Gauzy.

 

Oh super. Found an agent for Gauzy in SA. 100ml for about $18.00. A bit pricey. 

Edited by Gerhard

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Hmm, thanks. We dont have an equivalent product here in SA. Will see if I can find Gauzy.

 

Oh super. Found an agent for Gauzy in SA. 100ml for about $18.00. A bit pricey. 

 

 

Urgh! Over here it goes for around 6 euro. But you don't have to use Gauzy at all cost.

 

Any clear acrylic floor cleaner would do. You can find them all over the world under different names.

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PUTTING ON THE METAL

 

It's not without apprehension that I started this topic as it's the first time I try a natural metal finish on a model.

I read all there is to know about the paints and the techniques, I studied the different approaches, the styles, the er…philosophies :innocent:

I know all about the theory BUT practice is a different game altogether.

 

I decided on the Alclad II's system.

 

I put on accordingly a black primer overall. I use Citadel's Chaos Black in spray can which gives a nice self-levelling, tough coat with a nice sheen.

 

Then a basic coat of Airframe Silver is airbrushed on the fuselage. Air Speed Silver was used on the wings as it's meant to replicate the finish on planes PAINTED in silver like the Gloster Meteor.

 

The Alclad went on nicely with a fine, smooth finish. What I didn't know is that the paint is slightly transparent so that the result was definitely darker than what I expected, more like Gunmetal. I tried adding on a few panels in Aluminium, hoping that it would give a lighter shade but in vain. :BANGHEAD2:

 

So I decided to try a new method. I had a few Tamiya silver aerosol cans at hand. For obvious reasons, I'm always reluctant to try painting a model with a spray can somehow out of desperation, I tried it on a mule.

 

First pass with the can gave a rather thick, pebbly and rough coat. Just like I thought. So I let it rest and returned to my model. But when checked the mule some 15 minutes later,presto! :o  the rough coat had given way to a nice, smooth and shiny aluminium coat with every detail nicely enhanced. It appeared that the paint had shrunk and stretched itself over the surface with even the tiniest detail apparent.  :clap2:

 

Off we go with Tamiya spray cans. The original paints were scraped leaving the primer smoothed and ready for the basic coat. Silver Leaf TS-30 was used for the fuselage and Bare- Metal Silver AS-12 for the wings.

43_B1887_F_E239_4_E9_F_9866_33_BF6_F5_CC

 

BB57_FC7_C_5_F28_46_E5_AB63_35_B4_DF4_E7

 

The difference between the 2 paints is hardly visible on these quick photos but it's very noticeable in the flesh. The TS-30 is shiny while the AS-12 is nicely muted.

 

With the basic coats left overnight to cure, the different panels were then masked and painted in Alclad II in contrasting shades. I tried to put a slight streaked effect on certain panels with the airbrush to represent the 'grain' of the metal. The effect is subtle and varies with lighting.

8245_CCB3_0_C3_E_4760_8_A21_4_C5562_E767

 

DA8_AE990_2195_4744_9984_F99_E532_D3_A1_

 

ACEABB5_F_D37_A_4_D28_8707_4_E521824_C3_

 

3_E5_A27_DA_F936_47_B0_99_D6_B4_D34_AAF4

 

A note of warning. These silver paints are VERY prone to lifting when masking tape is removed i.e. the left exhaust shroud.

 

Lifting occurred on several occasions during the painting and every time called for repair. Sometimes it appeared like a thankless and endless job.

 

Next time, we'll deal with the red nose and... the black-and-yellow checkers  :popcorn:

Until then keep well

 

Cheers,

Q

 

 

 

 

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Nice looking silver finish Q. That oxidised appearance looks more realistic for an aircraft in squadron service than a bright mirror chrome look that you'd get with say, a foil. (Unless you bleach the top layer off the foil to dull it down).

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@chek. This is only the first step. Then come the washes for more textures, the tear and wear and finally the staining with oils and other liquids. I predict a long and fastidious process.

 

@bruce. Thanks. Hopefully I don’t have to convert it into a P-51B!

 

 

Did the Tamiya spray paint lift with tape? I've used these paints on 7/8 builds and never had lift problems. 

 

Don

In fact, the lifting affects ALL the coats of paint involved down to the primer, not the top coat alone. So I guess the problem is the primer which in itself is very tough and adheres very well. Still speculating on what went wrong. 🤔

 

FYI for the masking, I use Tamiya yellow tape which I de-tack carefully by sticking it on my brow before applying. A eerie sight, I admit.

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