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Revel P-51D Lou IV: Blue and Green

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I wouldn't worry too much about the access door to be filled. Some CA glue would do the job.

On my model, I used the stock exhausts which IMO are very usable. Still I'm curious about those 3D printed parts.

 

Cheers,

Quang

 

I used some acrylic filler so we'll see how that goes, also on the flaps which have that sink line along the entire length.  I guess that is what you get in order to hollow out the flap?

 

I was ready to drill out the exhausts but the opportunity came to try out the 3D Printed ones so I figured why not.  They entail a bit of a process (soaking in Dawn to remove the oil and wax, then setting out in the sun so the UV light hardens them).  I'm really looking forward to seeing the detail.  I'll write up a review and share what I find out.

 

Keeping an eye on your build too!

Chris

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I used some acrylic filler so we'll see how that goes, also on the flaps which have that sink line along the entire length.  I guess that is what you get in order to hollow out the flap?

 

 

The only putty I use is White SuperFine Milliput which is IMO the only one which feathers well. The other putties I've tried always leave a step between the putty and the plastic at best or lift off at worse.

 

The P-51 flaps are very peculiar in that both sides are concave. In order to reproduce this feature AND at the same time, keep the trailing edge razor-sharp, Revell decided to mold the flaps in one single, hollow part. An original and bold move.

 

Of course there are some slight sink marks. But then there's nothing that a smear of putty and a quick wipe of wet-and-dry can't do.

 

Another solution is to replace the kit flaps with the new A.M.U.R. Reaver resin replacements. I just received them. The castings are superb and the canning effect is short of sublime. But more of it later when the time comes.  :innocent:

 

Quang

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The only putty I use is White SuperFine Milliput which is IMO the only one which feathers well. The other putties I've tried always leave a step between the putty and the plastic at best or lift off at worse.

 

The P-51 flaps are very peculiar in that both sides are concave. In order to reproduce this feature AND at the same time, keep the trailing edge razor-sharp, Revell decided to mold the flaps in one single, hollow part. An original and bold move.

 

Of course there are some slight sink marks. But then there's nothing that a smear of putty and a quick wipe of wet-and-dry can't do.

 

Another solution is to replace the kit flaps with the new A.M.U.R. Reaver resin replacements. I just received them. The castings are superb and the canning effect is short of sublime. But more of it later when the time comes.  :innocent:

 

Quang

 

I may have over done it on the filler - using the Vallejo plastic putty.  I started trying to sand one of the flaps last night and quickly got no-where so I may have to go the AM route and have already looked at the link you provided - thanks!  I'm busy the next two nights so will come back to it on Thursday. 

 

But I think the Vallejo putty dries too hard - to your point - and will not feather well.  I have the Squadron white putty which I like or may just try some Mr Surfacer on the trough and see how that works.  Thanks for the idea.

 

Alternatively, I may go the second option and just use the set with the flaps up.  I was going to model the plane with the Main gear doors partially open anyway so that would be consistent.  Am thinking of absconding with the Tamiya pilot so then Lou IV becomes a plane that just landed and before the flaps and gear doors are released...  Mmmmmm    :hmmm:

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Minor update, focusing on the exhausts as the Model Monkey/Shapeways exhaust came yesterday.  I am going to do a full review for the site, but just to give you all a preview.

 

Here is a shot of the exhausts with a light dusting of Vallejo Gloss Black primer.  I didn't do any prep on the exhausts, just a Dawn bath, and few light scrubbings with a very soft toothbrush and then some time spent in the sun per the recommendations.  They are definitely hollow a ways down the 'throats', and the bolt detail is apparent as well (narrow on one side, wide on the other (middle in this photo).

 

I took my trusty old judges flashlight to look at the (unshrouded) exhausts on my Tamiya P-51D and the bolts are not on the exhausts but more on the mounting plate - not altogether an accurate looking design I think.

 

62k2my.jpg

 

One key difference to the kit exhausts, and this could be a big issue depending on your choice of shrouded or non-shrouded exhausts, is that the Model Monkey exhausts are quite a bit wider than the kit plastic exhausts (in the picture below the kit exhaust is in the middle of the two MM exhausts). 

 

They look more in proportion to my eyes actually.  If I had to guess, and short of taking calipers to my Tamiya plane (are you REALLY going to make me break out the exhausts from the Tamiya kit I have not built yet?), I think the MM exhausts are the widest, then the Tamiya, then the Revell.  At least with Revell and MM you don't have to put together each exhaust from two pieces!

 

KxQtdV.jpg

 

The kit exhausts fit perfectly into the kit shrouds (as you would expect), but they are a close fit.  I don't see how, without some major work, that the kit shrouds would work with the Model Monkey exhausts.

 

Another point with the MM exhausts is the texture of the plastic (or whatever the material is) - I like it.  I have a picture (I'm saving for the review  :innocent: ) that shows the gloss black vallejo primer I used and it is nice and glossy on the kit exhaust.  On the MM exhaust it looks like a matte finish - which I prefer for my exhausts - a powdery, sooty kind of look.

 

You can kind of see the difference in the photo's above.  But reserve judgement till I get the full review together.  I can see some pros and some cons to the MM exhausts.  If you are going unshrouded, they are a no-brainer IMHO.  If you are going shrouded - well, lets see how much work it will take to fit them into the shrouds and is it worth the effort?

That's it for now.  

Chris

Edited by CANicoll

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 Ok, made some more progress.  Dry fitted the cockpit to the fuselage - the fit looks like - not phenomenal esp around the rear of the cockpit - a bit of a gap as you can see in the photo below.  I did paint the canopy rails aluminum but still need to weather them some as they are way too shiny.

 

Y6agRt.jpg

 

View from the bottom.  With some patience hoping there will not a huge seam to deal with.  Have not tried the tail pieces yet, maybe tomorrow.

6PiyUK.jpg

 

 

Here is what the exhausts look like after a coat of gunmetal, then two different brown powders and a bit of white power as a highlight.  The bolts really show up now.  Now I just have to figure out how to use the shrouds with them.

 

urLwju.jpg

 

There are several dots that need to be filled on the bottom of the wing.  Here are the before and after the Mr. Surfacer 1000.

dMafiN.jpg

1c3boA.jpg

 

I can count the number of times I've used Mr. Surfacer but I think on this build I'll be using it more than usual.  I need to get some thinner tho to help remove it.

 

Here are the wheel wells, with a little bit of wash, that needs a lot more attention.

 

Xiy3kL.jpg

 

The doors will be mostly closed but still have work to do on the wells.

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Great progress so far. Photos look vaguely familiar  :innocent:

 

The fit between the fuselage halves appears to be perfect. The gap around the rear decking occurs because of part B11. This is the part you need to modify to ensure a good fit.

 

The underside of the cockpit floor needs a dash of YZC as it will be visible through the wheel wells.

 

The new 3D-printed exhausts look very nice esp. when they're painted. I'm curious to see how they fit inside the shrouds.

 

Looking forward to seeing the next step.

Cheers,

Quang

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Hi Guys,

 

Although I've built the Revell Mustang, I never was a real fan of the aircraft. But that changed with my Revell build and the ones being assembled here on LSP. What a neat looking aircraft!

 

Now I'm doing Trumpeter's P-51B and still in the pile there's another Revell kit which will benefit a lot from the work here in WIP. Lots of fixes to lots of minor problems and glitches, plus a major support group of great modellers having a ball with the same kit! Maybe there should be a dedicated Revell Mustang forum? I'm joking of course.

 

Keep the pictures coming!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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Great progress so far. Photos look vaguely familiar  :innocent:

 

The fit between the fuselage halves appears to be perfect. The gap around the rear decking occurs because of part B11. This is the part you need to modify to ensure a good fit.

 

The underside of the cockpit floor needs a dash of YZC as it will be visible through the wheel wells.

 

The new 3D-printed exhausts look very nice esp. when they're painted. I'm curious to see how they fit inside the shrouds.

 

Looking forward to seeing the next step.

Cheers,

Quang

 

Quang,

 

Thanks for the tips, both the YZC on the floor (I should have caught that) and needing to modify B11 - I will definitely take a look at that - much appreciated!

 

The exhausts will take quite a bit of work to fit the kit shrouds - I'm going to pull out the Tamiya shrouds and see if they offer a better option and also talked to Steve at Model Monkey about  making his own shrouds.

 

Following along your build as well - you do terrific work!

Chris

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Hi Guys,

 

Although I've built the Revell Mustang, I never was a real fan of the aircraft. But that changed with my Revell build and the ones being assembled here on LSP. What a neat looking aircraft!

 

Now I'm doing Trumpeter's P-51B and still in the pile there's another Revell kit which will benefit a lot from the work here in WIP. Lots of fixes to lots of minor problems and glitches, plus a major support group of great modellers having a ball with the same kit! Maybe there should be a dedicated Revell Mustang forum? I'm joking of course.

 

Keep the pictures coming!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

 

Hi Bruce,

 

Agreed on the merits of the kit, not the least of which is the low price and high detail.  I also have another Revell kit in the stash, but I need to find a better solution for the flaps.

 

I do like the idea of a Revell Mustang forum just to share tips and build pics.

 

Chris

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Ok, minor update for today.

 

Finished off the exhausts after a coat of gunmetal.  Another view of the Revell exhausts compared to the Model Monkey exhausts.  I actually didn't paint the inside of the exhausts black, but seems like the black primer coat took care of that issue for me.

 rVShZc.jpg

 

Here are the exhausts after a drybrush of dark brown, then followed up with some Doc O'Brien's weather powders in two shades of brown and some white.

 

a63tyZ.jpg

 

On to the tail and getting the wing together.

 

Chris

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Chris,

   Some nice work on the exhausts!  I'm really surprised that at 1/32, Revell couldn't make hollowed tubes, considering all of the innovations with moldings in the last few years.

 

GAz

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Gaz,

 

No kidding!  And I just didn't want to even try and drill out the exhausts so at this point I'm not sure what I'm going to do.  I THINK I can install them through the nose opening after I close the fuselage up but will be seeing if that is actually the case.

Stay tuned!  How are you doing?

 

Chris

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Gaz,

 

No kidding!  And I just didn't want to even try and drill out the exhausts so at this point I'm not sure what I'm going to do.  I THINK I can install them through the nose opening after I close the fuselage up but will be seeing if that is actually the case.

Stay tuned!  How are you doing?

 

Chris

 

Chris,

 

following your build with great interest!

 

Doing my "Lou IV" I drilled out the exhausts which looks fine to me.

Reuben does a fantastic job on his exhausts!

 

I was thinking of painting the nose first, glueing the exhausts into the fuselage halves and then completing the model, but this seems to complicated and not even necessary.

I glued my exhausts into the model at the end of painting/weathering. Leaving parts B50/B51 aside until that stage and no masking was necessary.

Handling was easier as well as not risking any damage on the exhausts during the progress.

I only can recommend this!

 

 

Cheers

 

 

Reimund 

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Not sure if it is still accessible but I have read that on the 5NA the only interior part outside the cockpit that was ZCP was the spar. The rest was apparently unpainted aluminium (or aluminium if you prefer). That's how I'm planning to do mine anyway.

 

Maybe the blue/green uppersurfaces controversy is being saved for later

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