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1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

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In this picture the cover is saying the aluminum Is treated with Alclad and type is 24S-T.  The 24S-T may be the Manufactures number for this sheet of aluminum.

 

F2CFx1X.jpg

 

 

 

In the Picture below the Aluminum Manufacturer is Reynolds Aluminum and it .O51 thick sheet. 

 

A2nQijL.jpg

 

When I did sheet metal work we usually just used a green scotchbrite to remove these markings..

 

Jason

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Peter, beyond incredible work, unbelievable doesn't even describe it!

 

Somewhere I had read that those dull lines on portions of the airframe were a reaction of the aluminum skin to a brush applied acid etch. Unfortunately I can't, for the life of me, remember it's purpose. If it's not a detail you're planning on replicating though it doesn't really matter eh?

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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evening folks :)

 

as it's a Bank Holiday here, I had a bit more time at the bench..

 

the windshield parts were made up and painted...

 

WIP922_zpsvv1hcujg.jpg

 

..then very carefully assembled - I also added the fixed gunsight and mirror..

 

WIP926_zpstahe9zlq.jpg

 

WIP925_zpsh3zhywvi.jpg

 

WIP927_zpsrhlann6c.jpg

 

..and thankfully the coaming fits nicely - Steve from Model Monkey has kindly 3D printed the gunsight which I think will arrive tomorrow so once I have that I will detail it, fit it and this whole assembly will be added to the airframe..

 

WIP928_zpsh0xo65bd.jpg

 

..I had to find another part to do and as the glazing was going pretty well (hope I don't speak too soon, it's my nemesis), I decided to start on the side windows...

 

..started by making a mould profile to make up the PETG in boiling water, pressing it down on foam to adopt the shape..

 

WIP933_zps4tnbjrmb.jpg

 

..once done, I used the PE frames I made to size the glazing...

 

WIP923_zps5xyaun1j.jpg

 

WIP924_zps3pao1voe.jpg

 

..I also had separate PE frames for the front sliding part of these windows so they were also carefully added..

 

WIP929_zpsrwekidcl.jpg

 

..then the detailing started, there are lots of very small assemblies in each one, and they are subtely different (or will be) as the top canopy part hinges off one side..

 

WIP930_zps1pzlgtxs.jpg

 

WIP931_zpssdreuuij.jpg

 

WIP932_zpsivvzytqy.jpg

 

..another bit I was dreading sorted out, hopefully I can get them all finished without any mistakes like scratches or CA blobs :)

 

TTFN

Peter

 

 

 

 

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Not a bank holiday in this part of the UK :(

 

But as for your build. Wow!.... just WOW!

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Hi Peter,

 

I ran out of superlatives years ago when it comes to your projects - but that really is beautiful work!  :wub:

 

Iain

 

 

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WIP931_zpssdreuuij.jpg

Now THAT! is what I'm talkin' about!  Love all of this.  Super work, Peter.  Just super.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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As if by magic a canopy appears!

 

I‘m rapidly running out of hats to doff to you Peter - x-fingers, toes etc the rest goes so smoothly.

 

Torben

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Posted (edited)

Acid Etching / Metal Conditioning to Paint Aluminium 

 

 

Introduction

Before primer and paint will adhere properly to a metal surface, it must be etched. Etching is a process that removes oxidation and microscopically roughens the surface. The accepted practice is to use a phosphoric acid etch. However, many commercial process use an alkaline etch on aluminum then follow up with an acid etch to de-smut the surface. The risk of using an alkaline etch is that the alkaline salts will be left behind causing corrosion sites to develop. In any case, the goal is to remove oxidation and roughen the surface.

Another conditioning step is often done on aircraft aluminum. This step is a chromate conversion coating often called Alodine, although this is a trade name. The conversion coating helps protect the aluminum from corrosion in the field, and it also helps with paint adhesion.

Etching

Acid etching is a fairly simple process. For aircraft aluminum, phosphoric acid is the normal chemical used. Phosphoric acid is fairly safe in the concentrations used for etching, although if any gets on your skin it will burn and should be rinsed off. By the way, phosphoric acid is what give Coke and Pepsi their acidic taste or bite.

You can purchase acid etch from various sources including Aircraft Spruce (Alumiprep), welding supply stores, and Home Depot and Lowes (a Jasco product that looks green). However, it is recommended to avoid the stuff from Jasco. It will work, but it does not list any surfactants in the ingredients list. Alumiprep and the stuff from welding supply stores contain surfactants, usually ethylene glycol and phosphates (typical ingredient in laundry detergent, at least it was typical). The surfactants are important to emulsify any remaining oil, dirt, and metal removed during etching process.

Although you can buy acid etch off-the-shelf, for doing an entire airplane you may need larger quantities. Local chemical supply stores will often sell you what you need - 75% phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol. Sometimes the minimum quantity is 5 gallons, which may be in excess of $300. Sell the left over (a lot) to your local aircraft mechanics. Alumiprep and other off-the-shelf etching compounds will also contain hydroflouric acid. While this will also act to etch aluminum, its probable main use is to act as a brightener. Because this acid is not as safe as phosphoric acid, if making your own brew it is not recommended you purchase this. The phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol will do just fine. Mix one part acid, one part glycol, and one part distilled water for a 30% etch solution. Add 2.3 parts water to 1 part 30% solution for a 10% solution. Alumiprep ships at 30%, and sometimes you may want 30% for the really tough stuff. 10% is sufficient for most work.

Don't try to etch everything at once. Pick a relatively small area and work that to completion. Spray or sponge on the etch, and lightly scrub with fine (green) or very fine (grey) Scotch Brite. It will take a little practice to realize when enough is enough, but the real test is when you rinse the etch off. The water should form a break-free surface if the metal is etched properly. Because acid is consumed during the etching, you will need to spray additional etch on occasionally as you scrub the surface.

Because etching exposes fresh aluminum with lots of microscopic surface area that is easily oxidized, it is best to immediately follow up with the next conditioning process.

Aluminum Conversion Coating

All aluminum parts should be conversion coated for corrosion protection and good paint adhesion.

The traditional conversion coat for aluminum is Alodine. Alodine is really just chromic acid. In powder form, it is an oxidizer and needs to be handled and stored carefully. Chromic acid uses the hexavalent form of chromium, which is known to be carcinogenic.

For this reason, safer trivalent forms have been developed. One such product is Aluminescent. This supposedly a drop-in replacement for Alodine and meets the same milspec. However, it is quite finicky. pH must be kept within a certain range using potassium hydroxide and sulfuric acid (both are nasty) and a supply of pH indicating strips, the temperature must be above 70F, and it is difficult to tell if the conversion coat has been formed since it is a clear, although iridescent, coating. The color of the iridescence depends on the alloy of aluminum. While this may be Ok in a controlled production environment, this simply is too much for a shop environment. For these reasons, many users that have tried Aluminescent have switched back to Alodine.

Alodine comes in either a liquid or powder form. For an entire airplane, buy the powder. You can mix it as strong as you like. Alodine can be sprayed, brushed, or sponged onto large surfaces. The surface must remain wet for several minutes or until a light to dark golden brown develops. Alodine should not be allowed to dry on the surface because of the salts it contains. If this happens, the surface should be re-wet with Alodine. Smaller pieces that can be immersed into a plastic tub of Alodine often take less time. After the conversion process is complete, the part needs to be thoroughly rinsed with water. It is often recommend that the parts be primed within 3 days of the conversion coating. However, the reason for this is uncertain.

 

Information from Bondline.ORG

Edited by USMC Herc

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On 8/23/2019 at 7:01 PM, USMC Herc said:

When I did sheet metal work we usually just used a green scotchbrite to remove these markings..

 

Jason

Jason, during the war it would be common for some end user aircrews to remove those markings, but the factory workers themselves generally did not make any effort to do so unless it was a publicity plane (e.g. 500th this or that, sponsored planes, etc.).  Aircorps Aviation's goal is, as much as possible and within reason, to replicate a zero hour bird as it rolled out of the factory.  So they go to great length to create those period specific stamps and make sure to leave them wherever the factory would leave them. I would add that that might seem in direct contrast to the markings that get painted on the plane like pilot's name, kill tally, and nose art, but those are things the owner decides, not Aircorps. 

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