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1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

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I'm convinced you have an engineering degree!  The tolerances on the joins between the panels alone is just incredible.  I can't wrap my mind around how you do that, especially on a complex 3D shape like the spinner.  

 

Do you have a special process on how to bend the metal pipes to shape?  I struggle with this no matter what type of metal I use.  I can use soldering wire as it is easy to bend but I sometimes will end up damaging them with my tweezers if I need to reshape.  I don't have much luck using stronger wire because if I don't get the angles perfect, it becomes nearly impossible to reshape.  I don't see any of these issues on all the piping you have done.  Any advice would be appreciated and sorry if you have already explained it previously. 

 

I always look forward to your updates...

 

Bryan

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major applause!!!!   The wings look like factory wing assemblies done in by a shrink ray!  Now - make sure the dihedral is right (5 deg I seem to recall).  For Miss Velma, I had to do a difficult modification to get that dihedral,  which was wrong on the toy.  I cannot tell by your pics.

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evening ladies :)

 

On 4/22/2019 at 10:52 AM, dodgem37 said:

'the filler was used on the leading edge (posted under fair use) and as can be seen, it does not extend to the wingtip so that panel was left detailed..'

WIP685_zpsamyqi4y4.jpg

AirCorps, from Page 44, shows otherwise.

 

Good show, Peter.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Hi Mark - interesting spot - I hadn't noticed that - the factory picture shows this as being unfilled so rightly or wrongly thats how it is going to be :)

 

On 4/22/2019 at 1:58 PM, Out2gtcha said:

Wow! How are you going to tackle the wingtips?

 

Hi Brian - well, I cover that in a moment, but I also did a whole compound curve tutorial that shows wingtips being done too (bless that old F7F..)

 

On 4/23/2019 at 5:28 PM, Durangokid said:

I'm convinced you have an engineering degree!  The tolerances on the joins between the panels alone is just incredible.  I can't wrap my mind around how you do that, especially on a complex 3D shape like the spinner.  

 

Do you have a special process on how to bend the metal pipes to shape?  I struggle with this no matter what type of metal I use.  I can use soldering wire as it is easy to bend but I sometimes will end up damaging them with my tweezers if I need to reshape.  I don't have much luck using stronger wire because if I don't get the angles perfect, it becomes nearly impossible to reshape.  I don't see any of these issues on all the piping you have done.  Any advice would be appreciated and sorry if you have already explained it previously. 

 

I always look forward to your updates...

 

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan - I use solder in 0.6 & 0.8mm and found by rolling it straight (using a steel ruler on a sheet of glass), the best way to bend it is to slide tube over the bit you want to bend up to the bend itself and then holding the 'pipe', pull the tube in whatever direction and you keep the thing straight (well straighter anyway..)

 

seems the last few weeks has been a bit slow, but to be honest I have been hard at things, learning from a few mistakes on the way and redoing stuff I wasn't happy with..

 

..the first thing was to finish skinning the leading edge of the wings at the underside wing root - I needed a smooth surface to skin onto as this had all been chopped about to add in the frames & ribs in the landing gear well..

 

here, at the top you can see the curved sub-skin added...

 

WIP731_zpso49itmy4.jpg

 

..there is a lip / ledge the gear door sits on so a jig was made and some annealed 'L' shaped litho bent to shape and painted..

 

WIP732_zpsz5ktoqbg.jpg

 

..these were then added and filled flush with the new skin so I can put soft annealed litho on top of both without it picking up the uneven surfaces below - here before filling..

 

WIP733_zpsdnqlxi8p.jpg

 

..then the panel itself was made by getting a tape template of the shape and cutting it short at the curved edge to get the lip..

 

WIP734_zpsdpgosiqo.jpg

 

.. I then forgot to take a picture of the finished panel, so onto the wingtip :)

 

..I started by cutting the straight edges where the wingtip panel meets the other panels, then this join was taped down and the shape burnished to follow the curves. Once this was done a straight edge was added at the very tip where it will meet the underside tip skin.. once I had the main shape, the fastening rivets were added and here it is seen hinged upwards before adding the impact cement to fix it..

 

WIP735_zpsb3aq6xh4.jpg

 

..before sanding smooth, the shape is pretty good anyway..

 

WIP736_zpsupxapslx.jpg

 

..and the final wingtip - as it is going to be being painted, any tiny blemishes can be dealt with using primer or filler..

 

WIP737_zpsxgvjskja.jpg

 

 

 

..the bulk of the last couple of weeks was spent prepping for priming as I know alclad is so unforgiving.. I also replaced the landing light panel three times as I just couldn't get it to blend properly with the surrounding panels and actually found when I fitted the main skin as I rolled the leading edge skin over the edge, it was not all stuck right onto the surface so I had this hollow area that kept crushing and denting - it was all pretty frustrating..

 

..to add to that, after finally etch priming both wings, I found the primer easily coming off - so after a bit of research it turns out etch primer has a best before date - if it is not fresh, the acid in it goes off and it is basically like paint rather than etching and grabbing onto the surface

 

that all needed stripping, the rivet depressions cleaning out and the whole prep process done again...

 

anyways, I got some proper single pack etch primer from Phoenix Precision and have just painted the first coat - I am impressed when thinned 50/50 it goes on well and preserves much more detail than my old primer..

 

..you be the judge :)

 

WIP738_zpsmfbveb7m.jpg

 

WIP739_zps87nezpev.jpg

 

WIP740_zps2hvp2vvo.jpg

 

WIP741_zpsr845lyof.jpg

 

..that stuff needs 36hrs to etch the surface so after that I can get a look at further prep for an alclad finish - though that stuff is pretty fragile so not sure what stage to paint it as I don't want to damage it and even taping up the wings is a risk as I have had it come off with masking tape..

 

more next time

 

TTFN

Peter

 

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The primer looks great and the wingtips came out perfectly. Did you use pewter sheet for them? They look a little shinier than the rest.

 

That lip for the front of the gear bay is very nice too... As always Peter, highly inspirational!

 

Cheers,

 

Craig

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Shaping up wonderfully to my eye. Looks like you’ve caught just the right amount of detail and texture across the whole wing. Lovely stuff!

 

Torben

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Hi Peter!

Will you have to mask the wings with tape?
If so, first I would try a new primer on a piece of aluminum foil, stick masking tape and check if the primer does not break away from the surface, and only then I would paint wings.

I had this problem with my Boeing, so I used metal primer first, I can't remember Gunze or Tamiya, then primer and final paint. 

Will Alclads not react with this new primer? I heard that they can with some.

Good luck, nice work.

Tomasz

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evening folks - regular Sunday installment...

 

On 5/5/2019 at 11:29 PM, brahman104 said:

The primer looks great and the wingtips came out perfectly. Did you use pewter sheet for them? They look a little shinier than the rest.

 

That lip for the front of the gear bay is very nice too... As always Peter, highly inspirational!

 

Cheers,

 

Craig

 

Hi Craig - it is ali, but it's this strange almost thick foil like stuff - someone in the US sent me some they use in a lab for something or other & it's perfect for compound curves - I don't know what I will do when I run out of it...

 

I want to get the tailfeathers skinned next, so I used the usual process and scaled a factory drawing to get the rivet pattern - this is the first step after sticking the drawing on litho and scoring & adding rivets..

 

WIP742_zpsc2oply3s.jpg

 

..after it has been burnished flat, there is an access hatch in each surface, upper and lower so I had already had these made in PE and I use a brand new scalpel blade to go around it, then drill the corners, make a hole in the middle & score into this so I can break away the waste..

 

WIP744_zpsmlsol8p5.jpg

 

..then the rest of the waste around the panel is broken away and it's taped in position..

 

WIP743_zpspe0yhgud.jpg

 

..stuck down with the hatch added..

 

WIP745_zpsovrkctxi.jpg

 

..upper & lower..

 

WIP746_zps6gb8pruh.jpg

 

..the leading edge is done is softer, thick foil like ali that is taped down to a butting straight edge and worked over the leading edge - where it meets the panel on the other side it is pushed hard so there is a step where it laps over it and then stuck down & the step sanded away resulting in a perfect join..

 

WIP747_zpskbbqvwcx.jpg

 

..guide tape is used to follow the rivet lines from the main tailplane panels to allow LE rivets to be added...

 

WIP748_zpsdiivr0yi.jpg

 

..same process for the fin - here you can see the leading edge folded back on itself ready for fixing and some rubber pipe protecting the trailing edges of the tailplanes..

 

WIP749_zpsdfdq9owd.jpg

 

..and where the LE panel meets the main panel you can see the step that gets sanded away..

 

..I actually later taped scaled drawings to the LE panel to get the rivet pattern right

 

WIP750_zpsa4ge9o2d.jpg

 

..one of the two lower fuselage panels - this has a number of hatch cutouts in it and will set the datum for all panels to follow so needs to be right...

 

WIP751_zpsgjmv6mct.jpg

 

..with the hatches added - the bigger one with holes in needs domed rivets adding one by one when I can be bothered to drill all the holes..

 

WIP752_zpsxab9ww9o.jpg

 

WIP753_zpsfanpsa99.jpg

 

WIP759_zpsnldajved.jpg

 

and the rear is starting to take shape - unfortunately, again all this will be painted - in this case the whole empennage will be matt black...

 

WIP760_zps9oeexocd.jpg

 

..away for the week on business but hopefully have something done next weekend :)

 

TTFN

Peter

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Good show.  Nice work.  I like the contrast between the skin and hatches.

 

'unfortunately, . . . all this will be painted'

Maybe so, but this model is going to be an outstanding piece in the end.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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Looking great Peter!

 

I wonder if the foil you're using is something similar to this?

 

https://www.hobbytools.com.au/nutter-set-extra-foil-6-x-6/

 

It's very soft and cuts easily. If it is then it is readily accessible so you don't have to worry about running out of it!

 

Great idea about overlapping the leading edges then sanding back...... I'd never thought of if, but it makes perfect sense and the results speak for themselves :) As Mark said, it'll still look ace under paint!

 

Craig

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