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1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"


airscale

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All of that is just too damn funny.  Show off.  Do oil and coolant lines not travel back from the firewall to the belly radiator similar to the 'D' model?  If so, where are the openings?  Or are you planning a different solution?

 

' broach'

Never heard of that.  I looked it up and everything that showed its'face didn't look like the image you have  It looks like a reamer to me.  Got a link?

 

'I used a 5mm punch in a 5.5mm hole and it flared the edge which is something I have been trying to do for ages'

Should have asked.  Just kidding.

 

Love what you're doing.

 

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

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6 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

All of that is just too damn funny.  Show off.  Do oil and coolant lines not travel back from the firewall to the belly radiator similar to the 'D' model?  If so, where are the openings?  Or are you planning a different solution?

 

' broach'

Never heard of that.  I looked it up and everything that showed its'face didn't look like the image you have  It looks like a reamer to me.  Got a link?

 

'I used a 5mm punch in a 5.5mm hole and it flared the edge which is something I have been trying to do for ages'

Should have asked.  Just kidding.

 

Love what you're doing.

 

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

 

 

Hi Mark - it's the two little 'T' pipe runs seen on the left in this pic I was trying to copy..

 

WIP579_zpspjoinmt9.jpg

 

and for Broaches - these are the ones I use..

 

Available from Eternal tools in the UK

 

WIP580_zps3fmpybut.jpg

 

hope that helps :)

 

Peter

 

 

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evening folks :)

 

still plugging away on the wheel bay...

 

wanted to make the big spar attatchement seen here (the long black thing on the left with loads of bolts in it)

 

WIP586_zpstuywxps9.jpg

 

scaled the drawing and started drilling lots of holes in a square tube of brass of the same size...(always drill any hole in anything first, before doing anything else...)

 

WIP588_zpsx4j6znis.jpg

 

..put a template each side and ground away the waste...

 

WIP587_zpsq0elrndd.jpg

 

..and added small lengths of wire & micro nuts...

 

WIP589_zps373edjak.jpg

 

..andf fitted to the spar...

 

WIP591_zpssxafhgyk.jpg

 

..also made the gear retraction unit from a bit of perspex acrylic - filed & sanded to the shape with a disc added to the front face but allowing for the slide on gear legs to come later...

 

WIP592_zpsw6npqhgi.jpg

 

..finished all the ribs...

 

WIP590_zps20hrxcco.jpg

 

..and sprayed everything with Xtracolour zinc chromate - nothing is assembled yet, just placed for the photos

 

WIP594_zpskkc0v0zy.jpg

 

WIP595_zps0kmasesf.jpg

 

WIP596_zpsztiuwxwc.jpg

 

WIP599_zpstz5os2iu.jpg

 

WIP598_zpso8zw4ico.jpg

 

WIP597_zpsjrwwl7uc.jpg

 

..thats it for now - back soon :)

 

TTFN

 

Peter

 

 

 

 

 

 

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From a guy who specializes in gear bays - that is a gear bay you can be very proud of.  Wow. 

 

Question - the gear stub you have in there - the subject of earlier posts where we discussed the right gear rake angle - how are you going to get it stiff enough and strong enough to robustly support the considerable weight of this model?  It appears to me that it is currently just bonded to the wing upper skin.  When I did Miss Velma, I drilled holes in the top of the gear struts and bonded in a cross bar kinda like the real thing, where the gear rotates on the cross bar.  My gear do not rotate and my cross bar is not at the authentic angle for proper rotation, but the sole purpose of my cross bar is to support the gear strut at the proper rake angle:

 

 0sbkDmAl.jpg

 

But also unlike the real thing, my cross bar extends all the way to (actually through) the wing spar.  That way it has two support points - the aft one is the wing spar, and the forward one is the bearing box just aft of the strut itself (which you have created already).  Other ways to do it, but you can't get more robust than that.  

 

Do not underestimate the weight of the model and how it will want to flex and bend the gear.  Even smaller scale models do nothing other than provide a reinforced hole in which to insert the gear strut.  Pretty lame.  Tamiya was the first to do better and actually provide the cross bar (although at the wrong rake angle).

Edited by JayW
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thanks chaps :)

 

20 hours ago, JayW said:

 

Question - the gear stub you have in there - the subject of earlier posts where we discussed the right gear rake angle - how are you going to get it stiff enough and strong enough to robustly support the considerable weight of this model? 

 

 

Hi Jay - good point - those stubs are part of a soldered bigger brass structure with a big plate going across the top of the wing roof - it makes the roof artificially shallow, but is a proven way of supporting the weight - by the time the Spit was finished it was over 2Kg!

 

you might be able to see the plates here before the tube was cut down to stubs..

 

WIP443_zpsb52r5cpg.jpg

 

17 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

Great show, Peter.

 

 

Love the bottom detail of the upper two sets of ribs.  Very nice returns, as well.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

Thanks Mark - the first two sets of ribs were done before I spotted & worked out how to do the returns - I could have remade them all but decided to just do it on the bigger ribs that can be seen in the most open part of the well

 

just a secret between you and me right :)

 

TTFN

 

Peter

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