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Gerhard

My resin lessons learnt thus far.

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So after being a recipient of many benefactors on this great forum, I decided to try and up my resin "skills" a bit. This is what I have learnt to date:

 

1) Wash and wash the parts. Then wash them again. (then repeat) Now I soak them overnight in a mild detergent solution. 

 

2) Not all resin parts are better than kit parts because they are "resin". (You get good ones, and very very bad ones)

 

3) Sand, fit, sand, fit and then sand and fit again before you go near any glue.

 

4) Resin is very very brittle. Point in case, I used the Eduard undercarriage on my FW190, somehow managed to snap the tail wheel. This after painting and everything. Only way I could fix it , was to pry open the fuselage, remove the resin parts (using somer force) and replace the tail wheel assembly with the kit part. 

 

5) Use a GOOD primer and let it dry at least 24 hours before painting. 

 

6) Alway use protective gear when working with resin. That dust is nasty stuff. 

 

 

Oh, did I mention, sand , fit, sand fit, sand , fit and  the sand and fit again?

 

I am also reading up as much as I can and youtube videos. Really dont want to mess up that glorious AIMS BF-110 resin upgrade. 

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I also tend to use an Epoxy glue with resin, super glue is fine but one too many times I've had myself knock a fuselage half, loaded with resin bits off the edge of my table and that tends to launch several parts in many different directions on impact with the floor. I make my models in the kitchen so you can bet most parts end up under the fridge, cooker or washing machine. Epoxy tends to have a better hold. Doesn't need to be quick setting stuff, I find the 30 minute stuff just fine.

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Posted (edited)

I use super glue power flex. It's a CA glue (gel type) but with more flexibility than usual CA (which is quite brittle). I think it's a good stuff to glue resin parts, and easier to use than epoxy.

Edited by Zero77

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Posted (edited)

It seems that it's not called "power flex" in the US but just "ULTRA".

I dont know how it's called in South Africa. You should look for the "Rubber toughened formula".

 

I think it's this one in the US :

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htm

 

In Europe :

s-l640.jpg

Edited by Zero77

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I might try that stuff myself then. I always end up mixing more epoxy than I need. I do find myself not getting along with super glue fumes though these days. Always try and have the door to outside open when using the stuff for some airflow. It's more my eyes than my nose though so I don't know.

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Don't try and glue the resin parts together in the traditional way, it's best to put the parts together and then using a scalpel with a couple of drops of super glue on the blade just tack the two parts together initially with a couple of dots of glue. Then you can run a bit more wherever you want it with confidence now as the two parts are already in position. Graham

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Posted (edited)

I might try that stuff myself then. I always end up mixing more epoxy than I need. I do find myself not getting along with super glue fumes though these days. Always try and have the door to outside open when using the stuff for some airflow. It's more my eyes than my nose though so I don't know.

I found the same thing and now I use odourless CA, either Rocket or Vitalbond.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

Edited by dennismcc

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Posted (edited)

The reason the release agents are so tenacious is that they are mostly based on silicone oils, so water based cleaners just bounce off!! You really do need a ferocious cleaner to remove them entirely!

Edited by wunwinglow

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I agree with all these lessons.  I learned unfortunately that no matter how much sanding, some resin parts just don't fit well in the kit they're "made for".  I eventually gave up on an Aires resin cockpit for the Eduard 1/48 Hellcat.  After sanding it so thin I could see through the side walls, I couldn't get the fuselage to close up around it. Also, do all your sanding and dryfitting before painting anything, as well. 

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The one thing that I did learn was to use hot (really hot) water to straighten warped parts, I've used a hair drier on resin tank tracks but prefer the water method.

For filling air bubbles I use plastic rod and CA, for tiny air bubbles Mr Surfacer is your friend.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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