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CANicoll

Revell SPAD XIII Eddie Rickenbacker

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This is my second Revell SPAD XIII - its cheap, but oh man the flash, flash, flash....   :shrug:   What was I thinking?  But really wanted to do Eddie's aircraft so off we go.

 

Using Tamiya tape to create the masks for the camo pattern:

 

3WSpuR.jpg

 

Taking full advantage of 'white-basing' to create a faded effect to the paint on the aircraft.

 

E18r1J.jpg

 

There are lots of different pictures, and drawings, of this aircraft but I liked the ones I've seen that seem to indicate a metallic front end to the aircraft so this is gun metal with PE engine vents.

 

zk3BdH.jpg

 

Thought about using the 'printed wood' paper from the craft store but the raised dials on the IP made that just too difficult to take on at this point.

 

ZlB6io.jpg

 

My first attempt at masking tape seat belts.  The seat was painted in wood to start, then over sprayed with copper (yeah, copper!), then hit with a clear flat coat.  Black wash applied randomly with a brush, then dry brush with burnt umber, finally a little bit of lightened brown for some highlights.  Looks better NOT close-up.  That's my story anyway...

 

aM60nb.jpg

 

Tomorrow looking to lay down the light green, and maybe the dark green.  Then on to that really bad propeller....

 

Chris

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Posted (edited)

Looks good so far...  :popcorn:

 

 

At least you know about the engine/upper-cowling/rocker arm cover fairing interference.

 

Do you intend to install the seat support framing on the lower wing before the fuselage halves?

 

When you're up to it, I would also appreciate your also sharing which paints you chose to use.

Edited by Gigant

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Finished the camo painting today, and have a bit of touch-up on the PE grills painted gun metal but am generally pleased with how the paint effect came out.  Trying for a pretty worn effect overall.

 

XGAj83.jpg

 

The rudder is painted, not the kit decal.  It is just easier to paint the straight lines, rather than try and get that huge decal to sit down - and the decal is over-sized anyway.  Everything has a gloss coat to get ready for decals and some weathering.

 

The blue is a custom Vallejo mix of one drop of Insignia Blue per two drops of Signal Blue.  Turns out to be a perfect match for the blue on the Roundels..  If I had REALLY pre-planned, I would have masked the Roundels (and the wheel covers!) and painted them too.  One of the these times I'm going to try that.

 

I had a brain fart on not painting the tires BEFORE doing the hub decals.  It didn't hit me until I had one of the decals in the water.  Oops.  Stay tuned on that one.

 

Thanks!

Chris

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Good coloration.

 

I usually prefer to paint rudder stripes instead of trying to use the clumsy kit decals for the same reason.

 

They never fit a scalloped trailing edge right, trimming them is an exercise of either too much or too little, and you have to touch-up the un-decaled edges anyway.

 

If you like, I can share with you my technique of painting wheels without having to use masks, so the pre-applied decals are not a big problem.

 

Feel free to PM me if you like. ;)

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I did one of these many years ago, and man, you are not kidding about the flash!! Very rough kit, but you're doing a great job of it!

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 Chris,

Thank you for the trip down Memory Lane my friend. I've always had a soft spot for the old 1/28th scale Revell kits,especially the SPAD . Looking forward to following your progress.Great work to date as well.

Highest Regards,

Gregory Jouette

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Got the decaling done last night with a few issues.  The Copper State Model decals had a bad tendency to shatter on the paper.  Of the 17 decals I applied, four shattered to some extent.  Not a happy camper.

 

Unfortunately, the first one I tried to apply was the top wing white '1' which is not going to be easy to replace.  If anyone has a spare.....   :whistle:

 

0iIgM1.jpg

 

I noticed the white 1 was cracking as I pulled it out of the water - disappointing to say the least.  Never even got it close to the model as just moving it on the paper gave the above result.

 

I did get the rest of the decals on, but as you see above, one of the large roundels, for the top wing, also shattered on the paper into too many pieces to try and apply.  I used the kit roundels on the top wing instead (lighter blue).  The rondel on the bottom ring, right side below also shattered but I was able to coax all the pieces into place.  Unfortunately I had already applied the bottom wing roundels when the top wing one shattered or I would have used the kit roundels all around.  Arrgh.

Here is also where I noticed a huge mistake I made in painting the rudder: the colors are backwards!  :oops: Should be Red, White, Blue, not Blue, White, Red.  Blast blast blast!!!  

 

muELLF.jpg

 

The kit decals went down very well using a bit of MicroSol and MicroSet, with a little help from a toothpick to get down into the gap between the wing and the flap, and paint brushes to get down over the wing detail.

 

z3hYNA.jpg

 

Interestingly, the Copper State Models decal set has 'patches' for known bullet holes in Rickenbacker's aircraft.

 

rkrf5X.jpg

 

On to getting the cockpit installed and then the wing rigging.  LOTS of ejector pin marks on those enormous wing struts to deal with.

 

Away we go...    :piliot:

 

Chris

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Posted (edited)

Gaz:

 

That was my initial question too, but I just got the Copper State decals a couple of weeks ago, however, I don't know when they had them printed. 

 

As disappointing at that is, I'm more upset with myself for not getting the rudder right.  I would have happily sanded off the paint and started over, but had the tail decal on the one side.  Frig, frig, frig...

 

I sent Copper State an email and they are going to send me another set of decals, so I'll be sanding off the stuff on the rudder and taking a 'do over'....

 

VERY quick response from Copper State, which I am grateful for!

 

Chris

Edited by CANicoll

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Nice work!  I just watched the old History Channel "Dogfights" show with Rickenbacker's famous 1v7 battle.  

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