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1/32 3D printed model

SirBlueHenry

By SirBlueHenry
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SirBlueHenry

SirBlueHenry

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Oh - I have just noticed now that the cockpit side trellis is in fact not solid - but exactly that -  a trellis of strands - thats an interesting feature

I wonder if we would do the brass and metalwork with actual brass - or just paint 3D parts

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Tnarg

Tnarg

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The plans out there for the Antoinette are mostly for Radio Control, not for an accurate scale reproduction. Look at the black and white photos on the web of the original and you see quite a bit of difference. I have a few photos I've found in various locations if you are interested. There are some engines out there in museums that could be a base for detail.

It is a beautiful and complicated aircraft.

 

There is a scratch build article for the engine here: https://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page55.html by Des Delatorre. Unfortunately, as I was checking in on his build I saw that he passed away today according to his forum.. Terrible news: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9267.0

 

Tnarg

 

Tnarg

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SirBlueHenry

SirBlueHenry

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Hi Tnarg

Sad about Des. Thanks for that article on the engine build. This will come in very handy.

Yes i guess the RC plans are essentially too rough for use here. I do have a 1/48 Antoinette - i will dig it out and build it as a starting point here just to get more idea about it. I am not sure which version. will check tomorrow. Yes please add photos here.

Cheers

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ungoliat

ungoliat

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Hi, 

3D printers in a near future can produce a major break down in this hobby, actually, there are machines capable to print  pieces from 0.1 mm and ahead (not cheap)...the time will tell.

Bye

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Nick_Karatzides

Nick_Karatzides

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Well i thought since it is likely that I wikll build a 3D model I might as well do so in a topic here on the forums. I thought I could try an easy topic, and do it in 1/32 scale. I will only be printing in PLA. My own first suggestion would be some WW1 monoplane, Junkers D1 or even a prewar Antoinette type, Bleriot?

 

@ SirBlueHenry,

 

PLA??? Are you sure the PLA material is the best available option for bulding under 1/32 scale such a delicate miniature like a WWI-era Antoinete or a Bleriot model? Maybe I am wrong but I strongly doubt how PLA material could replicate a delicate Bleriot frame under 1/32 scale. The PLA material requires at least 2mm thickness / diameter to build "wires" (a "wire" is a feature whose length is greater than two times its width) and considering the total length and wings span, this 2mm limit should be considered as extremely low and need to increase to 2.2mm thick or more in order to maintain stability and prevent miniature from collapsing if somebody breaths nearby - not to mention warping. Btw the main frame ribs would be approx 1.0-1.2mm thick and wing cross sections approx 0.3mm thick under 1/32 scale.

 

Anyway, since you feel confident, I sit back, I shut my mouth and wait to watch the building process.

 

CAD%20sample%2004_zpsga3kfhoa.jpg

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SirBlueHenry

SirBlueHenry

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Hi Nick :)

I dont doubt anything you say. So lets analyse this

Anyone starting out in 3D printing will be using PLA - so firstly its the easy the common choice.

as to alternative choices - well ABS might be slightly better - but I think the fragility issue would be an issue no matter what the material.

This build is not meant to be something that requires you to be a very advanced modeler - hopefully - I mean I myself am only starting out with 3D and with 3D design.

The choice of topic is not really intended to make life difficult - but yet at the same time maybe offer something a little out of the ordinary.

Which means that its worth trying - and if I fail - I just adjust slightly and try again till we have an easy process.

I can already tell you that there is no way i would be able to lift a framework off the printer bed - if the framework was 1mm, 2mm or such like.

Thats fine - it just means we have to print with some thin material in between - in other words print it as if we are printing the covering along with the framework.

Now we already know that wont look like material covering so we can still cover over that on the outside with thin material for a scale look.

Thats more or less my thinking at this stage. Im sure many aspects will get tweaked as we go along - or maybe we change topics. Its ok - all part of the learning curve :)

My confidence is only in that there is no reason not to try - not that the end result will be a showstopper  - so lets see how it turns out.

I still make blunders on plastic models and ive been building them for 44 years, Im sure i will blunder with 3D

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SirBlueHenry

SirBlueHenry

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I am :) - busy on a simple cockpit for my Seabee. I will post pics once theres something to show.

If making simple parts doesnt work out, then the whole plane will have to wait.

If things go smoothly - well then i can make advances.

Of course anyone else is welcome to join in if they wanted to design :)

 

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GunnarO

GunnarO

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Hi Nick :)

I dont doubt anything you say. So lets analyse this

Anyone starting out in 3D printing will be using PLA - so firstly its the easy the common choice.

as to alternative choices - well ABS might be slightly better - but I think the fragility issue would be an issue no matter what the material.

This build is not meant to be something that requires you to be a very advanced modeler - hopefully - I mean I myself am only starting out with 3D and with 3D design.

The choice of topic is not really intended to make life difficult - but yet at the same time maybe offer something a little out of the ordinary.

Which means that its worth trying - and if I fail - I just adjust slightly and try again till we have an easy process.

I can already tell you that there is no way i would be able to lift a framework off the printer bed - if the framework was 1mm, 2mm or such like.

Thats fine - it just means we have to print with some thin material in between - in other words print it as if we are printing the covering along with the framework.

Now we already know that wont look like material covering so we can still cover over that on the outside with thin material for a scale look.

Thats more or less my thinking at this stage. Im sure many aspects will get tweaked as we go along - or maybe we change topics. Its ok - all part of the learning curve :)

My confidence is only in that there is no reason not to try - not that the end result will be a showstopper  - so lets see how it turns out.

I still make blunders on plastic models and ive been building them for 44 years, Im sure i will blunder with 3D

 

I'd suggest you try printing with HIPS. It's Polystyrene so normal glue can be used and it is easy to sand and cut. Stronger than PLA but not so hard surface. I've got a Prusa i3 MK2S and can give you pointers for setup etc. If you use 0.4mm extruder, use 0.45mm walls. (I always use 0.05mm wider walls for the thinnest parts) Normal wall thickness should be 1.5 - 2mm for strong rigid walls. I print mostly 0.1mm layers at slow speed, makes the best details and the surface look good.

 

My Whirlwind project is currently on hold due to project research, but I have started a new one that probably will be posted here in the near future. I started with PLA, but moved on to HIPS. I'll never go back. If you want to check it out: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=71157&hl=whirlwind

 

There's a nice thread about 3D printing as well : http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=70571

 

Cheers

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SirBlueHenry

SirBlueHenry

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Thanks Gunnar - I will spend more time browsing your links - I'm sure I will have many questions since i'm a total beginner at this. Looks awesome. My biggest drawback is lack of experience in CAD - but I will catch up :)

 

I did my first 3 trials on the route to a cockpit for the Seabee. I will post pics so folks can see the development towards the end result. For some strange reason the 2nd back seat didnt print but it doesnt matter too much as these will be changing substantially. Dont judge too much - these are just trials. I was quite happy with the 0.7 mm floor and back bulkhead thickness. I think 0.7 will be something i use extensively. I will also not print the cockpit as 1 piece - it will be printed in all its parts - this was just a trial.

 

I also managed to get to write text on the lower surface but forgot to reverse the text - then on the next trial when i did reverse it - it didnt print - anyway - all part of the learning process. By the end of the week - the Seabee will have its cockpit.

The black base coat is just to stop light as the entire model is moulded in clear plastic.

Once this cockpit trial is done.

The next development for practice will be a set of wings for another model

Then I will move to the Antoinette25250223737_89450b0e41_b.jpg25250222977_d1b59858d0_b.jpg

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